Epoxy bedding?

[Comfortably_Numb]

You took your shot, the best you could.

So there is that ......

I could bury you if I wanted . So there is that too.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Well then, what are we arguing about?

Beats me. I'd say somebody has an attitude problem.

 

[Patched]

I'm working on my .40 caliber Virginia rifle, this is going to be for 25 yard offhand matches. I bedded around the breech/tang and about 12" or so yesterday. Today I removed the barrel from the stock, the bedding is about .035" thick where it ends toward the muzzle. Should I bed it on out until it runs out to 0?

Thanks, Justin

View attachment 137093View attachment 137094

I’ve built 10 muzzleloader rifles….and ”fixed” many others…yes perfect inletting of the tang is definitely the way to do things…BUT….I shoot very slow twist larger bore guns with larger charges of powder …. I can live with an epoxied tang area to reinforce the gun in an area vulnerable to splitting under heavy recoil…a little epoxy rather than a split or lengthy repair…let the purists and “flawless craftsmen“ whine…I too strive for perfection but epoxy for insurance.

 

[The Appalachian]

Beats me. I'd say somebody has an attitude problem.

Well, you started it, and don't like how it worked out for ya. Just sayin'......

 

[The Appalachian]

I could bury you if I wanted . So there is that too.

Bury me with what?

Lol.......

 

[Montgomery]

So, if they would of had it they would have used it. I'he been hearing that about muzzleloaders since 1980.

Yes, just like if they had better barrel steel they would have used it. What gun maker in his right mind would not have used the best things available at the time? IMHO

 

[Montgomery]

BTW, I DO use epoxies for repair. Excellent stuff and far better than hide glues.

Yes, i would agree

 

[Montgomery]

I use a sealer like Laurel Mt. Permalyn for my barrel channel and lock mortise under the butt plate etc. leaving raw wood is ridiculous in my opinion. It is a simple matter to run some stain & sealer in those parts and I do not get rust from it! There is nothing in/on a longrifle that is water tight, nothing. Water can and will get into the barrel channel and it will also dry out, unless you leave it sitting in the rain day after day. I did use a small amt of glass bedding about the size of a quarter, with a small german silver piece in it, under my barrel at the rear, to level it because the inletting was a bit low. I expect no problems from it. Just my opinion.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Well, you started it, and don't like how it worked out for ya. Just sayin'......

You started it. Infinity.....

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Bury me with what?

Lol.......

My superior intellect.

 

[1BadDart]

My superior intellect.

Nothing like modesty.

 

[The Appalachian]

My superior intellect.

There is a LONG trail of wounded egos behind me on the world wide web that had the same thoughts.


Stay numb my friend, it's the only thing you got going for ya........

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Maybe you should consider a nap.

 

[The Appalachian]

I am simply stunned beyond words by that incredibly superior intellectual comeback.

LMAO..........

 

[DuncNZ]

I would bet very heavy odds that had the original longrifle builders had such things as epoxies and the knowledge surrounding the use, they darn well would have taken advantage of them.

And stainless steel and carbon fiber etc etc

 

[DuncNZ]

If you glass bed a barrel in a ML firearm to be used in competition make sure that you can still use that firearm in the competition . Glass bedding or use of epoxy or other modern glues can get you disqualified . Use of hide glues with or without sawdust filling is permitted because it is historically correct

 

[Cpt Flint]

Forum syndrome. ********* off on a tangent.

 

[Patched]

Forum syndrome. ********* off on a tangent.

Keyboard pontiffs proving their infallibility…both should be removed permanently for flaunting their personality disorders.

 

[Montgomery]

Keyboard pontiffs proving their infallibility…both should be removed permanently for flaunting their personality disorders.

So, every now and then someone 'vents" or the thread wanders a bit. Who cares? If this is your biggest problem in life, you have it made. IMHO!

 

[1BadDart]

This stock was inletted very deep, it was dep enough that the drum was going to be very high on the flat of the barrel. I bedded the breech end about a foot, afterwards I found that if the stock was pulled up to the barrel it created an arch in the stock. So, I went back and ground out about six inches of bedding, then installed the barrel, clamped the breech and muzzle. After that I made the stock straight between the two ends, marked the barrel and put four small spots of epoxy along the barrel as pillars. This am I removed the barrel and put four sections of epoxy about three inches each, reinstalled the barrel, clamped it on the pillars I did yesterday. Now the stock will be straight and the barrel will have solid contact patches in the stock.

My question has been answered and the above quote describes what I did, and why.

If someone wants to start a thread about glues and argue about it's uses, please do so. I'm going to ask for this thread to be locked.