Euroarms 1858 trouble?

[Rebel]

I recently picked up a Euroarms 1858 Remington Target model on an auction. After messing with the rear sight and getting it on paper it shoots great, although still about 8"-10" high with the rear sight all the way down. My problem is the hammer is, for lack of a better description, mushy. The thing is real easy to cock, almost like a Colt, and that isn't normal with a '58. Also, the hammer doesn't seem to have any pressure on it to keep it down on the nipple like it should. My question is, does the mainspring control all of this or is there another spring i need to replace? Also, i took the trigger guard off to clean the internals some and noticed what appears to be a screw backed out that goes through the bottom of the hammer. I can't find this screw in the schematics for the Remington. Is this something that is unique to the Euroarms models? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[rebel727]

The screw in the bottom of the hammer is for the hand. There should be a screw in the front of the grip frame at the bottom. This is the set screw for the hammer spring. With the grips off back the screw out and slide the hammer spring up in it's slot then retighten the screw. I have to keep part of a matchstick under the spring in my Rigarmi Remmy to keep it from sliding down in the slot. Mine doesn't get mushy tho, it lets the hammer roller slip off of it if the spring gets bottomed out in the slot.

 

[Rebel]

Thanks for the info. Any idea how i go about tightening up the hand screw? It is up inside the frame and i can't get to it.

 

[Rebel]

Ok, i tried to wedge up the mainspring. The set screw in the front of the grip when screwed all the awy in does not touch the spring. I tried putting a wedge under the bottom of the spring but then the action wouldn't work at all. I did manage to pull the mainspring out of the gun though. Wasn't try to do that one. Figured it was gunsmith time but the thing went right back in. Seems to be a weak mainspring that is the problem. I put a wood wedge in at the bend in the spring to put more pressure on it and it feels like a normal '58 and the hammer stays down like it should. So i guess i need a new stronger mainspring. Still don't know how to tighten up that screw inside there though.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

If this is the small screw that holds the hand to the hammer, you'll have to take the hammer out to work on it.

 

[Rebel]

Great, so can anybody do this, or do you need some ability? :grin:

 

[rebel727]

It's no real biggie. Remove the cylinder. Remove the grips and hammer spring. Remove the trigger guard. Remove the trigger/cylinder stop spring. Remove the trigger/cylinder stop screw and take out the trigger and cylinder stop. Remove the hammer screw. The hammer will now drop down far enough to tighten the screw from the bottom. Note: If you ever want to remove the hammer you have to take remove the hand first and the hammer comes out the top. Reassemble in reverse

 

[Rebel]

Thank you. I hope the screw or hole in hammer isn't stipped. I think i will order a new mainspring, trigger spring, and hand screw from Dixie and try the new mainspring out, although with the wood wedge behind the spring it is working fine right now. Just need to get that screw tightened up in the hand. Thanks again. Take care. I got it apart, tightened the screw and got it back together. Thank you kindly. Take care.

 

[mec]

I am going to try to post a picture that will help in breaking down the remington for routine cleaning and maintenance. It may not appear as I can seldom get the periperals on this board to work.

Alternately, you may be able to access it here:[url] http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-2/949073/remingparta.JPG[/url]
if the host isn't blocked or made private.

Basically, the dismounting drill is as follows:
After removal of the grips, may be advisable to cock the hammer, tie the mainspring to the front of the grip frame to release tension and then lower the hammer.
 Loosen the mainspring tension screw and using a brass drift, tap the spring out of its seat in the lower grip frame.
 Remove the single screw retaining the trigger guard.
Remove the trigger Bolt Spring and lift these parts out.
 In order to remove the hammer, it is necessary first; to push it downward to expose the screw attached hand. Remove the hand and then lift the hammer out through the top of the frame.
 The action parts re-assemble in reverse order. The Bolt and Trigger fasten in place with a single screw. Fit the bolt in front of the hammer cam. Then move the hammer back until the Trigger will fit into place. It is necessary to use a guide pin to get the screw aligned with the holes in the trigger and bolt.
 The mainspring at rest is under considerable tension. Put the top of the mainspring into the hammer seat and then place a non-marring fulcrum between the front of the frame and the spring. Use thumb pressure on the butt of the spring to move it into the slot in the grip frame.
Thankfully, the entire drill becomes much easier with repetition.

this information from Percussion Pistols and Revolvers, History, Performance and Practical Use[url] http://www.amazon.com/gp/prod..._encoding=UTF8http://www.yahoo.com/?rs=1[/url]

 

[Rebel]

Thanks for the pic. I got it now and it works fine. The mainspring in this has almost no pressure on it. The tension screw doesn't even reach the spring, so i don't see that it is doing anythng. I can remove the spring by hand without any problem without backing out that screw and put it back in by hand without any thing to bend the spring except finger pressure. So i assume i need a new mainspring?

 

[mec]

good
tying the mainspring to the front to detension it is not usually needed with remingtons but it helps a lot with Patersons and Walkers.

On my Uberti, upon reassembly, I have to cock the hammer before tightening the mainspring screw or it will pop away from the hammer seat. this appears to be unusual and it never pops out after I have gotten it tight and then lowered the hammer.
the remington is really pretty simple to take down and get back together

 

[rebel727]

If you order parts from DGW they don't have just the hand spring. Their hand comes with the spring welded in place and fits I think Uberti. I don't know what the hand looks like on your Euroarms but my Rigarmi looks nothing like the hand I got from Dixie. However it can be easily filed into the correct shape. Just go slow and do a lot of testing as you go.

 

[Rebel]

Now that i have it all back together i don't guess i need a new hand or hand spring. The only thing is the weak mainspring. The mainspring in this has almost no pressure on it. The tension screw doesn't even reach the spring, so i don't see that it is doing anythng. I can remove the spring by hand without any problem without backing out that screw and put it back in by hand without any thing to bend the spring except finger pressure. So i assume i need a new mainspring? This forum and it's members are great.
:thumbsup:

 

[rebel727]

Sounds like you need a new spring and a new screw. Sounds like it has the wrong screw in it. Mine when you tighten it down puts more arc in the spring but it still slides down from recoil.

 

[Rebel]

That's what i was thinking too. The screw goes through the frame right above the slot for the bottom of the mainspring. I figured it was supposed to hit the spring and put more tension on it. Maybe all i need is a longer screw? The spring may be fine?

 

[mec]

people have a tendency to jack with tension screws. Particularly true on smith and wesson revolvers. they usually back the thing out and if they are really obsessive, they grind the thing off short. this usually results in a hammer fall too light to ignite primers.

There is one man on some of the black powder boards who really likes Euro-Arms/ armi san marco remingtons and knows where to order both the revolvers and spare part. One of the suttlers but I don't remember which. It is just possible that vti gunparts might be able to get the euroarms parts.

 

[paulvallandigham]

You need a longer screw. Someone either put the wrong screw in your gun, or someone cut it down so it would not work-possibly to make a lighter trigger pull. Either way, order a new mainspring tension screw, and you should be fine.

 

[Rebel]

Thanks mec. I tried VTI's sight but they don't list any Euroarms parts there. Just Pietta, Uberti, and Pedersoli. I would think that about any Reminton mainspring would work wouldn't it? Like i said though, it may just be the screw is too short. Going to see if i can find a longer screw for it. Take care.

 

[Rebel]

Thanks Paul. It does have a real light pull, but the hammer tension is way to weak. It is accurate though. After i got the sights centered for windage and figured out that it is shooting about 8" high. i compensated for the elevation and put my last 4 shots in to the bull and in a group that was 1 1/2" center to center and nice and round. This was offhand using a 2 hand hold at only about 30 feet. After i got home i took the adjustable rear sight off and filed some off the bottom to let it set down further. Hopefully this will help with the elevation problem.

 

[kaac1221]

New guy here putting his two cents worth in. I got rid of the target sight altogether (shot WAY too high!) and made a non-adj sight out of a piece of aluminum "T" section and installed it in the dovetail. The bottom of the notch is only about 1/32" above the top of the frame. Shoots right on at 50 yds. I still kept the old sight in the box though, just in case. Oh, don't forget to blacken the aluminum if you try this!