Euroarms Rogers and Spencer Q's

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The mechanisms all work wondefully and lock in place just fine. It's ball clearance thats the issue.

See that arrow in the picture? Thats where the ball contacts the metal below the loading arm. I mash on the ball with the rammer, it pushes in a little, I rotate the ball completely under the rammer, then seat the ball on the powder. Leaves a nasty marred surface on the ball.

Thanks for the pic, as that's one I've never seen before.

Hawkeye2 is right, that's a job for a Dremel tool, maybe files and a half round stone or fine Emory Cloth wrapped around a half round file. The bad news is you will need to grind or cut a little, check to see if the ball clears and grind or cut a little more until it does. You don't want to go too fast and cut away too much metal, so it will take a bit of time to carefully do it. The good news is it isn't that hard to do and there's no reason to re-harden that area once you are done. Just polish it and cold blue like Hawkeye wrote.

BTW, a word to the wise tip, plug the rear of the barrel and the hole in the frame for the loading lever with cleaning patches or bits of scrap rag. That will ensure none of the cut or ground metal gets inside them. Also, tape over the Cylinder Bolt on the bottom of the frame and over the holes in the rear of the frame as you cut/grind the metal off. The tape can easily be removed and more put in place as you grind/cut/check and do it more until you have enough clearance for the ball.

Gus
 
Very cool. I'm gonna give it a whack and see what happens. I don't really like getting anything that spins faster than I can saw near anything I care about, and I have a set of acquired files of all shapes and sizes, so this should be no problem.

Now all I gotta do is mix my shortening and beeswax together to make cheap cylinder goop then get some store brand cornmeal to fill the cyl. No time to wait for Track and their wads when I have post-war, Wild West fantasies to live out.

Gus, do you have a recommended load for this thing?
 
I think I have it whooped. Conicals may be a different story, but for now, I'll take my victory.

Dremel tool was used on a medium low speed with a tapered aluminum oxide grinding bit. I felt like the Bob Ross of high speed rotary tools with happy little paintbrush strokes erasing just a little metal at a time. Only the occasional spark was seen flying, and the metal barely warmed up.

I then hit it with a little 500 grit wet/dry with my ballistol/water mix as lube.

I'll get around to re-bluing at some point.

Cream of wheat, huh? I'll troll through the forums to find out why. My shooting mentor uses those thick fiber wads from Track. Flops the whole thing over in the cylinder of his '58 and squishes the ball on top of it. This guy pushes the accuracy game, though. I just push my luck.

Thanks again for all the good info.

If y'all can think of any unsolicited advise regarding this pistol that doesn't have to do with replacement parts, please feel free to post.

Updates to come.
 

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A couple of photos from earlier detailing the unstuck nipples.

Is there ever a reason to not remove the nipples to thoroughly clean the gun? All that black flaky stuff was carbon fouling caked around the nipple. There was very little rust, just a lot of that black crap. Bout slipped a rib trying to get them out too.

"It was shot maybe 150 times then cleaned and put away."


.....lies.

It took a while picking and scraping with a teenie flathead to get all the carbon off the cylinder recesses, but I managed it. After that, I saturated a patch with WD-40 and wrapped the loose nipples in it and let it set overnight. I also saturated q-tips with WD and left them in the nipple holes. The next day, I went over the nipples with a wire brush and it knocked all that gunk right off. A little dab of breech plug grease and they now screw in crisply and effortlessly.

For real, though. Pain. In. My. A$$.
 

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Dremel tool was used on a medium low speed with a tapered aluminum oxide grinding bit. I felt like the Bob Ross of high speed rotary tools with happy little paintbrush strokes erasing just a little metal at a time. Only the occasional spark was seen flying, and the metal barely warmed up.

Are M.

I got a huge kick out of the way you described that! LOL!!!

Ever heard of "Zen Draw Filing?" That's how I described it to get my Apprentices' attention when I was the Instructor of OJT's (Apprenticeship Instructor) at the Rifle and Pistol Team Equipment Repair Shop aboard Marine Corps Base Quantico, VA back in the mid 1980's.

It has been Soooo long since I was around those who shot the R&S, I don't remember a good load. Others here can help you with that, though.

Not everyone pulls the nipples every time they clean their revolvers. Actually WAY too many folks don't do it at all until time to replace them when they are too worn. I used to suggest at least once a month if folks were shooting them a LOT in the summer shooting season, though some folks only did every couple of months or so.

Gus
 
Well, I already bought this one NIB last winter and was supposed to send it to The Goon but haven't yet. And now I bought this Tom Ball Special. I'll be able to report back after Mike is done with tthe new one!
rogers2.jpg
4oqbdNph.jpg
 
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The reactive target is hard to see but it's pretty much in the middle of the picture. Shooting the Tom Ball gun today that targes started out at 25 yards and ended up at 41. I missed the first shot and hit the next 4. 25 grains of Swiss 3 F and double lubed wads under the .457 balls. I'm liking this revolver!
R&S.jpg
 
Necro-ing this thread for an update:

I finally got a chance to put in some real range time with my R&S. It'll cut a ragged hole at 25 yds with 23 grains of Old Eynesford 3F, 15 grains of malt-o-meal, and a .454 round ball.

One of these medals is from that pistol. The other is from that dang-ol Pedersoli Kentucky pistol and its bupkis trigger.
 

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