Example of Transtint used on maple with Iron nitrate?

[RocketMan58]

I'm planning out the finish on my Fancy Maple stocked Woodsrunner kit.
I used Iron Nitrate alone on my last kit and I'm happy with it but I'd like a "Yellow/Amber" tint this time around. In watching Kiblers videos, I saw the effect of Laural Mountain Forge Honey Maple dye and liked it allot. However, it seems that one is no longer available so I'm steered towards the Transtint brand Honey Amber. Can anyone post pics of the results of using the Transtint product with Iron Nitate? Any other dyes suggested to add that yellow/amber hue?
Plan B will be to go the other way and use both Tannic Acid and Iron Nitrate to go dark.

 

[J.D.]

I'm planning out the finish on my Fancy Maple stocked Woodsrunner kit.
I used Iron Nitrate alone on my last kit and I'm happy with it but I'd like a "Yellow/Amber" tint this time around. In watching Kiblers videos, I saw the effect of Laural Mountain Forge Honey Maple dye and liked it allot. However, it seems that one is no longer available so I'm steered towards the Transtint brand Honey Amber. Can anyone post pics of the results of using the Transtint product with Iron Nitate? Any other dyes suggested to add that yellow/amber hue?
Plan B will be to go the other way and use both Tannic Acid and Iron Nitrate to go dark.

The honey maple is showing on the Laurel Mountain web page.
maple stain

 

[RocketMan58]

The honey maple is showing on the Laurel Mountain web page.
maple stain

Thanks for that. I saw that but read that they were not shipping reliably. I ordered the TransTint Honey Amber last night. I'll do a test patch in the barrel channel if need be.

 

[wiscoaster]

Transtint works fine with iron nitrate because they're both water-based, and also because they're water based don't forget to whisker after application. You can apply in either order, depending on which you want to be more prominent. My Colonial is, I think, an example of what you're describing you want to do, though I don't remember in what order I applied. As I recall, it was the yellow color I used, though I might have added a little red.

BTW, Kibler will be happy to send you some scrap pieces to test on. I wouldn't put any iron nitrate in the barrel channel. It's conducive to rust formation.

But .... golly gee .... I didn't notice all that dust until after I took the pic!!

 

[wayne estes]

Transtint honey amber mixed 1 part to 4 parts water. Let dry. 1 coat of Kibler iron nitrate. Let dry. Blush with a heat gun to a rusty brown. Apply Laurel mountain Lancaster maple. Wipe away excess stain. Let dry. Buff back lightly with 4/0 steel wool. Apply finish of your choice.

 

[wiscoaster]

@wayne estes Very very nice!!

 

[J.D.]

Very nice, Wayne. I assume the transtint was left on the stock as the first step of staining, or was it used to check for scratches and poorly sanded areas of the stock, after which it was sanded off, prior to the application of the ferric nitrate?

 

[wayne estes]

Very nice, Wayne. I assume the transtint was left on the stock as the first step of staining, or was it used to check for scratches and poorly sanded areas of the stock, after which it was sanded off, prior to the application of the ferric nitrate?

It was left on as a base color. It actually highlights the light shades of the curl.

 

[RocketMan58]

Transtint honey amber mixed 1 part to 4 parts water. Let dry. 1 coat of Kibler iron nitrate. Let dry. Blush with a heat gun to a rusty brown. Apply Laurel mountain Lancaster maple. Wipe away excess stain. Let dry. Buff back lightly with 4/0 steel wool. Apply finish of your choice.

Very nice. Thanks for the tip on the mixing ratio too!

 

[J.D.]

It was left on as a base color. It actually highlights the light shades of the curl.

Thank you for that information. I have seen photos, on line, of stocks painted outrageous colors. I wasn't sure if they were under coats, or just used as a means of locating scratches and poorly sanded spots, and then sanded off. That said, I can see how the undercoat highlights the primary stain, and makes the colors pop.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

Transtint honey amber mixed 1 part to 4 parts water. Let dry. 1 coat of Kibler iron nitrate. Let dry. Blush with a heat gun to a rusty brown. Apply Laurel mountain Lancaster maple. Wipe away excess stain. Let dry. Buff back lightly with 4/0 steel wool. Apply finish of your choice.

Beautiful!

 

[RocketMan58]

Took the leap of faith today and mixed up some Honey Maple TransTint with water ( at a factory recommended 32:1ratio.) Applied it with some white scotchbright to my "b grade Woodsrunner stock. I was amazed on how much the grain popped with this vivid color. We'll see how it dries but I think one coat will be enough to get the color I'm looking for. Next , I'll whisker it one more time and move onto the Iron Nitrate. This is the best time of these builds!

 

[wiscoaster]

It's looking really good!!

Just be prepared the iron nitrate will do more than make the figuring pop, it will also make the overall color darker and more brown. Just keep in mind that more heat = darker and browner. It's kind of a "see how it goes" kind of thing. Not enough heat and it's more green than brown, and too much heat and it's too dark and looks burnt. Pay close attention to what's happening when you heat it. And remember you can also card it again if it's a little too much, but that also knocks back the underlying color.

I'm guessing from what I've seen so far you're going to be very pleased.

 

[RocketMan58]

It's looking really good!!

Just be prepared the iron nitrate will do more than make the figuring pop, it will also make the overall color darker and more brown. Just keep in mind that more heat = darker and browner. It's kind of a "see how it goes" kind of thing. Not enough heat and it's more green than brown, and too much heat and it's too dark and looks burnt. Pay close attention to what's happening when you heat it. And remember you can also card it again if it's a little too much, but that also knocks back the underlying color.

I'm guessing from what I've seen so far you're going to be very pleased.

Thanks for that advice. I get what your saying 100% While I don't have allot of experience with the iron Nitrate, I did learn allot when I did my SMR build. On that one, I didn't use any stain, just the Iron Nitrate, I wasn't happy with the color and contrast after blushing the one coat so I gave it another then ended up blushing it twice. That one got a little darker than I wanted so I buffed it back with Maroon Scotchbright to lighten it up a little. I wanted something a little different on this woodsrunner. ( Why not, right?) I had originally planned to go darker with Tannic Acid then the Iron Nitrate over the stain but but am now thinking I may skip the Tannic Acid and shoot for something a little brighter. No matter, whatever treatment I don't use here, will likely get used on my next kit (aka JK Hawken). Either way, this is as much fun as this old guy can have with his pants on!

 

[wiscoaster]

....Either way, this is as much fun as this old guy can have with his pants on!

Ditto that, no kidding!!

 

[bldtrailer]

trans tint honey amber dry then Lancaster maple +cherry Laurel Mountain Forge. rubbed back with fine scotch pan between coats then Chambers oil several coats