FFg or FFFg equivalent

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diego_m

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I have a Lyman Great Plains rifle. I want to develop a good hunting load for it using a round ball. Lyman recommends FFFg Pyrodex equivalent for its .50 caliber rifles, with a maximum load of 70 grs. I have thought that FFg equivalent is a better powder for .50 caliber with a round ball. What's your opinion?
 
I use FFFG in .50 and .54 caliber as well as .45. As long as your charges are reasonable you won't run into trouble. Fouling with FFFG, at least for me, has been less. I have also used FFG in those calibers but FFFG just seems to give me better accuracy. I do NOT use Pyrodex for anything and frankly, if you try black powder you probably won't go back to Pyrodex.
 
Diego,

There are a lot of opinions out there about powder, some people use FFF in everything. Back when I started the unwritten rule was .50 cal and above, FF; .50 cal and below was FFF. .50 was right in the middle. I would say, either is good, if you have both powders, try each and see which your rifle likes best. I have a .54 that the guy who built it told me to use FF, but I have used FFF when I was out of FF and it worked just fine. FFF is finer and has a higher pressure with the same load, so I think the rule of thumb is to back off FFF by about 10%.

I'm a little surprised Lyman says 70grs as I thought that was a little light but I don't have a .50.

I have never shot Pyrodex and any type of powder other than BP.

Anyway, I hope you have fun shooting your rifle.
Chris
 
diego_m said:
What's your opinion?

Our opinion doesn't mean poot. Your rifle's opinion is the only factor. Some like one, and some like the other. Only way to be sure is to try them both.

Lyman's own manual gives you guidelines for switching from one to the other. For similar velocities and safe pressures, cut the charge 10% when going from 2f to 3f, increase it by 10% when going from 3f to 2f.
 
Thanks guys.

Lyman recommends 70 grs. maximum for FFFg but 90 grs. for FFg. Of course I'll go for accuracy as the determining factor.

I use black powder exclusively in my .32 caliber flintlock but like Pyrodex for .50 caliber because of cleanup ease. I'll try black powder in the Great Plains this week and see if there's a difference.
 
Atsa way. Try them, then decide.

I've used a lot of Pyrodex over the years and continue to do so on and off. Just makes sense for me in a place where real black can be darned near impossible to get some years. I actually kinda like it, and some of my guns like it even better than black.

But I gotta say, the "ease of cleanup" is about 120% myth. Black is just as easy to clean up, plus Pyrodex produces perchlorates when burned, a real nasty one for rust and worse than any residue in real black. And it's darned hard to get completely out. I give my guns an extra special cleaning after firing Pyrodex, then oil carefully.

But always, always, I go back a week later and run a patch down the bore. often as not there's a little redness showing even after all my cleaning and oiling. Starting to think "normal" for cleaning up after Pyrodex should be clean carefully and oil, let sit overnight, then do it again.

Spoken as a fan of Pyrodex and not a kneejerk anti.
 
I used 3F BP in my GPR many moons ago ... worked great !!!

Now I use it in my flinters ... including my 20 ga smooth bore.

STILL works great ... give it a try !!!
 
I know people are tired of me bringing up Black MZ again. But, I use real black in my flintlocks and I have used a lot of Pryodex over the years, but I like the Alliant Black MZ, for my small cap lock rifles and pistols. When I go tho the range with a 32 or 36, I can shoot them 20 times and never have to swab the bore. Last one loads the same as the first. And, never had a rust issue with Black MZ, and it is accurate, when packed tight, per manufacturer.

I totally agree, that a 50 is boarder line 2f or 3f. In my flintlocks, with 50 cal, I use 3f.
 
I use FFFg in big bores (above 50 caliber) as do others I shoot/hunt with.
 
BrownBear said:
diego_m said:
What's your opinion?

Our opinion doesn't mean poot. Your rifle's opinion is the only factor. Some like one, and some like the other. Only way to be sure is to try them both.

Lyman's own manual gives you guidelines for switching from one to the other. For similar velocities and safe pressures, cut the charge 10% when going from 2f to 3f, increase it by 10% when going from 3f to 2f.

what he said ... it all boils down to what gives you the best performance for that particular system ... remember tat any gun is a resonant mechanism, and that changing one variable will effect the performance of all the other variables. If you don't already have a copy of Dutch Schoultz' method, you should consider the investment - money very well spent, IMO ...


here's a link: http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/
 
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