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k.jacobfrost

40 Cal.
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I have an old rasp file I'm wanting to cut down and grind into a knife blade and just like all the other beginners out there I have some questions I could use some help getting answered.

#1. Is there a simple way to remove the cutting teeth from the flats of the file. Preferably by grinding or possibly sanding them off?

#2. I don't know the metal content, but I know it eats up other metals quite easily. Would it be worth taking care not to muck up the temper when cutting and grinding, or should I just plan on having to heat treat it afterwards?

Any advise would be helpful.
Thanks,
Frost
 
If you think you may have to re-do the heat treat you may want to anneal the file now and make it easer to work. But on second thought if your using a grinder guess it doesn't matter. What kind of handle are you going to have? If you want to drill holes for pins then you will need to anneal it. With a file, even after annealing you may one heck of a time drilling it. I have had to resort to hot punching holes in files I have used for knife blades. Guess i'm not much help, sorry.
Jeff
 
You will have to use a carbide drill bit to poke a hole in that file, very hard steel. You may want to draw it down when heat treating.
 
I'm not an expert, but have made a bunch of knives from files, so heres my 2 cents worth.. Put the file in a good wood fire and heat it red, heat it until a magnet will not attract to the steel, take it out and let it cool. Now you can work the steel. After you have it shaped and sanded to where you want it put it in an oven set to 500 degrees for an hour. I use a toaster overn, after an hour take it out and let it air cool, then "bake" it once more for an hour. I read this method some time ago and it has worked well for me. I'm curious to read others methods and how they hold uo. Good Luck
 
Grinding and shapeing would be a lot easier if you anneal and reheat treat. If you will bring the file to a red orange heat in dim light, let it cool, you will be able to drill it easily with a cobalt bit. You could temper it now, and anneal just the grip area, if you don't want to reheat treat it, but you would have to be very careful not to overheat while grinding it. Most good files are W-2 steel, or the equivalent, and very forgiving in heat treating, although you will need three or four normalizing steps to reduce warpage before the final quench. Oil quench, not water.
 
To properly aneal the file back, do as the rest of the folks are saying. Heat the file to the point where the magnet no longer sticks to it and let it cool very slowly. To cool it properly, heat up an old bar of steel to red hot and shove it into some wood ash, push the old file in there next to the bar. It will allow the file to cool very slowly over the next 12-24 hours. White wood ash works real good. You can get the ash by shoveling a bunch of white ash from your bbq grill and put it in a bucket, that's what I use. You can also buy vermeculite at a garden store or use kitty litter.
All of these methods will allow the blade to cool very slowly and bring it down to a soft state.
Once the steel is soft, grind away. Be carefull not to get it too hot though or you will simply make it hard again. If you keep your hand on the opposite side of the file when you grind, it'll tell you when it's time to dunk it in water to cool it off.
I've heard the more exspensive files are made from 5160 tool steel.
Regards
Loyd Shindelbower
 
have made some from shoeing rasps, I get a few of those every year doing my own shoeing...
I put them in the wood stove for a couple of fires,realworkable then. I use a finer grit disk in my 4 1/2 grinder and a belt sander. works good and I can easily drill the handle.
Getting ALL the teeth off will leave you kinda thin....after heating, hammer some of those teeth down! I have used trailer spring also with good results. and I heat treat by torch and oven baking as mentioned above.

..have fun with it
 
All that is good advice. I can only add that when you are done shaping and harden it (or if you shape it while hard) you will need to temper it a bit further than some steels. It is easy to get carried away thinking "harder is better" and then the blade can be hard to sharpen and liable to break if roughly used. Our forefathers and mothers were not afraid to sharpen knives and generally older knives are not as hard as some modern custom knives are.
 
A belt sander will make fast work on any file. Most files are 1095 steel.

Ed
 
i just beat the teeth down flat ,leaves a fish scale look.
100_0914.jpg
:rotf:
 
If you heat the tang up until it is red hot, in low light, you can drill that hole with a standard high carbon steel drill bit. It will go through the hot steel like a hot knife through butter. Since the tang does not have to be hardened, and actually works better if it is softer, just let the tang cool back to room temperature. Hold the blade in a vise, using steel on steel, or using soft jaws made from metal, rather than plastic, and the vise will act like a heat sink to protect the hardened, and polished steel blade. I have used this technique to drill holes in laminated steel blades, which are much harder to drill than even a file.
 
Hey Wick- I saw on Ebay some guy is selling the "iron mistress movie knife"- I'm not sure but was that the same as the ones you made? Thought you ought to know.
 
Thanks. This is a lot of useful information. It sounds like it will make cutting and shaping a lot easier if I soften the metal first, so I think I will be doing that.

Thankfully sense I am going to be turning it into a rondel type dagger I don't have to worry about drilling through the tang. I just need to make sure I can harden the blade enough to withstand being forced through plate armor and chainmail.

Thanks for the info,
Frost
 
You might have more success and less damage to the blade if you force the dagger through GAPS in the armor or chain mail!

I really can not remember the last time this situation presented itself in more than an academic mode.

And I hope the person occupying it has a forgiving nature.
 
Hey Dave, no, the Iron Mistress is much different. It was used in a number of movies, including the John Wayne production of the "ALAMO", and the Jim Bowie tv series. If you have never seen the movie "THE IRON MISTRESS", it is well worth watching. Not historically correct, but a really good movie.
 
Reply to Paul V. I have made some knives using that type of blade, I did it more out of curiousity than anything, the tang is a b8*8h to drill for a pin, but man do those blades hold an edge. Do you happen to know if these are period correct? They come from Sweden or maybe Finland, can't recollect where, but since they are laminated I'm uncertain if these were available around say 1840-60?
 
'Of course they would not be available in the 1840 period. We didn't have stainless steel then( alloy with chromium) and while we had early forms of laminated " steel ". called damascus, or toledo, or Japan steel, it is not anything like the laminated blades being marketed today.

I bought it because I hate the period correct idiots with a passion, and wanted a good sharp patch knife, that I didn't have to strop several times through a shooting match. MY gun is a reproduction, using modern steels, modern investment casting processes, machines to inlet the barrel and action, and all the other furniture, none of which were available to craftsmen and artists, and manufacturers in the 1840s, and before period, so the whole idea that I should worry about having a knife that is period correct to cut my patches, is rediculous. I have always suspected that many of the folks into making exact copies of old guns, down to using copy tools of original proof marks are more interested in defrauding buyers, or at least making a gun that is capable of defrauding some future buyer, than they are in simply making a find replica of an earlier gun. Consdering some of the posts here talking about guns that have been sold years later as " originals" when the member can prove he made the gun, I see this a growing problem. Many years ago, the Smithsonian Institute met with gunmakers and interested parties at the NMLRA and asked the gun makers to clearly mark their guns with their names, proof marks, logos, or some other means to quickly and easily identify the guns as being a modern replica. While the museum could go to the expense of having metals tested in labs, and the wood and fixture analyzed, the museum people preferred that there not be any question as to the source of the gun. Most gunmakers have complied by putting their names, and the date of completion on the barrel, stock, buttplate, lock, and other parts. But some only put it on the bottom flat of the barrel, and put someone else's name on the visible flats. That is where fraud occurs, as it is rare for a buyer to insist that the gun be taken apart so he can examine the bottom flats, or the inside of the buttplate or the butt of the wood stock.

Think it doesn't happen? My brother went to a gun show recently in Orlando with a friend who had bene building guns for many years until his recent forced retirement from a bad ticker. The friend spotted one of his old guns being sold with a tag claiming it was an original, and having a hefty price tag on it. He spoke to the seller, and eventually convinced the seller to take the barrel out of the stock, where he would find his name on the bottom flat, and the date the gun was made. He gave the seller his card. Several days later, he received a call from the seller, who thanked him for spotting the gun and telling him where to look. He had bought the gun from a dealer in another state, and after finding out that the gun was a replica and not an orginal, he sent the gun back to the other dealer, and got his money back. The other dealer had contacted the dealer who sold him the gun, and also got his money back. The third dealer was still in the process of contacting whoever sold him the gun.

It is a credit to the sport that most gun sellers are honest, and if they sell you something they think is one thing, and it turns out to be another, they will take it back and return your money. That is the norm at gun shows. The dealers would be kicked out of the shows if they were found to be sticking it to customers. They can't afford to lose their base of sales.

I wish the same could be said about knife makers, and sellers. There are a lot of old looking knives out there that are actually pretty new. And there seems to be no effort being made to discourage people from copying old markings on their blades. A very expensive metallurgical test would be required to prove that a knife was not made early enough to be an " original". For that reason, frauds continue in the knife collecting business for many years before they are exposed. Then its too late to find the crook who started it all, much less get anyone's money back.

To this day, I get a little nervouse reading anything here on this forum about " Antiquing " guns or knives or powder horns. Its one thing to make an item look old, provided it is clearly marked as to its source, and actual age. But, it also seems that there are too many people out there using these skills to make items they can pass off to the unknowning as originals, and make a lot of quick money.

We don't need people like that in this sport. When fraud becomes rampant enough that it becomes common knowledge, it destroys the legitimate business of collecting, and selling true originalsy, by robbing those honest dealers of a customer base.

I was given a badly broken original horn, which probably survived because it was made so crudely that no one thought to buy it and pass it off as a more expensive type of horn. I had it repaired and restored by a reputable horner. It still has its early 19th century scrimshaw, but it has a new spout, and a new baseplug. And, they are marked.
Someone cut off the base of the horn years ago, and the cut goes through one of the primitive stick figures and letters down there. My horner left them as is, so that it was clear to anyone that the baseplug in the horn is not the original.

That is honest work.

Paul
 
paulvallandigham said:
I bought it because I hate the period correct idiots with a passion, and wanted a good sharp patch knife, that I didn't have to strop several times through a shooting match.
Paul

Paul,

It is obvious from your postings on this forum that you have no appreciation of period correctness, but to call those of us who do "Idiots" is way out of line. Harbor those thoughts all you want, but please refrain for expressing them in a message. Your feeling toward period correctness comes through well enough even without you making a direct statement about it. I, for one, think that your disdain for things period correct has become a little obsessive.

There will always be those of us who strive to be period correct and those, like you, who couldn't give a rat's a$$ about it and for you to keep harping on the subject only causes hard feelings between the two.

Randy Hedden
 
Rnady: You do me a disservice that you do not intend. If you had gone on to read and include here, the rest of my posting, you will see that I most resent that PC people allow a lot of crooks to get away with fraud.

In truth, I am an avid historian and have a degree in American History. I love original guns and artifacts. I could spend my life in archives and museum libraries. But I am also a lawyer, and I see a lot of shady things going on at gun sales and auctions, and I don't like it when builders facilitate fraud. I don't think anyone would ever confuse a Homer Dangler rifle with an original, but he builds a very find rifle anyone would pay a lot of money to own, as an example. Quality work in building reproductions doesn't have to aid fraud.

So, If I have pinched any toes with my remarks about Period Correctness generated fraud, perhaps only those who toes are sticking out should take offense. I am sure you are not one of those, Mr. Heddon. To you, sir, I apologize.
 
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