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Filing maple

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wayne1967

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Is there a trick for filing in a 60 angle in maple? I am doing the angles in the side of a sliding patchbox. Using a triangle file with one side smooth. My file is pretty aggressive and zipped through the metal buttplate with no problem. It kinda "skateing" across the wood without cutting very much at all. I clean it about every 3 strokes but doesn't seem to do alot of good. :confused:
 
I haven't tried it myself, but saw this:

A bud is a serious and talented knife maker, including carving on maple. Somewhere he came up with a set of "files" that are diamond coated rather than with conventional grooves. He reports in their various grits they are the best thing that ever hit maple, especially for fine detail work. Knife work doesn't apply directly to your job, but I do recall a couple of triangle files in his set.
 
While my triangle file I use has one "safe" side I also have the end sharp to the sides so it acts partially as a scraper in addition to a file...
 
I cut dovetails with a chisel. Mark the depth along the sides of the box opening, then stab in along the line, then cut down, working the angle in. I do it by eye. Cut the box lid dovetail the same way. Now, I sometimes clean up or straighten up the dovetail with a file, but I don't try to cut it out with the file. After I cut the dovetail in the wood, then I file the buttplate to match. :wink:

And 60 degrees is generally too sharp an angle. They don't need to be that sharp.

SB-towworm.jpg
 
Rootsy said:
While my triangle file I use has one "safe" side I also have the end sharp to the sides so it acts partially as a scraper in addition to a file...


:thumbsup: First thing I do with a three corner file is break the tip off! That uncut end ain't useful for anything anyway, and I need to file all the way to the end! Plus, that sharp broken end is a good scraper! :D
 
Absolutely what the formerly "Fat Dutchman" says. The angle is more like 75-80 degrees.

Bill
 
I think 60° is a tad more angle than necessary, but I would rather go 60° than this below. This was a Tip Curtis "in the white" that was pre-cut and fitted, but poorly. I made a new better fitting lid and rear plate, but if pulled back more than a couple of inches, it just comes off. I have always roughed in with a chisle, then finished with a safe edge tri-corn file. I see fewer problems with the tri-corn angle than not enough angle, and the tri-corn file is commonly found most anywhere. It is a dead set angle with no guess work which works well for beginners, or those like me, who have not built a lot of guns.

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Is that blood I see? If it is, then you are doing it right! I haven't done a gun project without bleeding on it at some point....
 
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