When loading cap & ball revolvers, when do you need cream of wheat, or other filler in the cylinders? Shooting my brass framed 1860 Colt Army (replica) since 1973, using light loads, 18-20g of FFF, I've always topped off the cylinders with lube. There is quite a bit of space on top of the ball but how much is too much? How should one load a cap & ball gun using filler?
filler or no filler
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64Springer
75 Cal.
I load mine from bottom to top.....Lube/Cream of Wheat/Powder/Ball.
But the misfires get frustrating.
Need to dig into it.
But the misfires get frustrating.
Need to dig into it.
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CaptainVane
Colt ‘51 & Remington ‘58 .36; Colt ‘48 .31
I dont use filler, experimenting it made no difference in mine, stopped using it. Same with sprue up down sideways, made no difference. I just go blast lead, honestly i have zero difference.
I've tried using cerial filler and, yes, I'm absolutely convinced it does reduce black powder bore fouling. Whatever other benefits accrue are debatable. And adding another component into the mix does complicate loading procedure and paper cartridge fabrication. I'm all for keeping it as simple as possible. But, I'm still experimenting with filler and exploring and debating the tradeoffs. I did conclude it had absolutely no benefit in my 1861 rifle musket, and in fact degraded the accuracy. But with cap 'n ball revolvers my conclusions are still up in the air.
I'd just encourage the OP to continue with his experimentation and his cartridge and load development. Please report back to the forum your findings.
I'd just encourage the OP to continue with his experimentation and his cartridge and load development. Please report back to the forum your findings.
64Springer
75 Cal.
How about mixing Grease with Cream of Wheat and killing three birds with one stone.
Would scrape away fouling while filling the bore while preventing chain fires.
Would scrape away fouling while filling the bore while preventing chain fires.
You're joking, right? I can't see how it would fire with lube and/or filler between the powder and the cap???
64Springer
75 Cal.
Yes.
I don't and never have used fillers, except once.. IMO just another step not needed same as using grease on top of ball. Load powder, felt wad, ball, cap and fire. I never use squeaky loads in my cappers, nor magnum over powdered loads that do nothing but make unneeded fire and spew unburned powder out the muzzle. 18-20 grains in 36, 28-30 grains in models such as 1860 Army, 42 grains in Dragoons, 48-50 in Walker, 40-42 in ROA. Not overpowering loads, all accurate, easy shootin loadings. Tried filler once in 6 rds out of a Dragoon, just another flask to drag around/hang around my neck, fill a shootin bag. Enough of a process shooting a capper without another step, same with worthless grease over balls which does nothing but make a greasy mess after 1st if not 2nd shot.
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I've been competing with grease over ball and cream of wheat filler for may years with some pretty good scores occasionally but have recently switched to lubed felt wads and so far am encouraged as to accuracy and especially lack of mess but need further testing to be sure. I am convinced the reason filler works is because it keeps the ball depth consistent and close to the end of the chamber for minimal ball jump before rifling engagement.
Lube wad use eliminates measuring out filler, grease all over the gun, hands , shooting glasses and spotting scope , especially if any wind is in your face.
Back in the days I greased over the balls prior to mid 90's, I had to have eyeglass cleaner and tissues as par of the necessary items due to blowback of grease. An old rag hanging on holster belt also required, still do have a rag needed at times, but not as in the 'greasy days'! 
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The other thing I never liked about over ball lubing is each progressive shot removes more of the lube from the next shot with most of it blown out by the first shot out of the fully charged cylinder. The lubed wad makes for a far more consistent, shot to shot charging.Back in the days I greased over the balls prior to mid 90's, I had to have eyeglass cleaner and tissues as par of the necessary items due to blowback of grease. An old rag hanging on holster belt also required, still do have a rag needed at times, but not as in the 'greasy days'!
That all makes sense and pretty convincing.
I've been shooting cap & ball pistols, as well as other BP firearms since 1973 when I bought my Colt 1860 repop. I was reading about BP guns long before then, and that is the first time I've ever read an explanation about why to use filler in a revolver. Nowhere else, Dixie Gun Works catalogs, Black Powder Digest, nowhere.
Mike in FL
50 Cal.
I stopped using filler. Found no benefit. Now just powder, ball, Ox Yoke Wonder Wad on top. Some put the wad on the powder but I don't like a lined wad touching the powder. After six shots I swab barrel and cylinder, dry, and go again. I can't remember ever firing six shots when messing about in the woods, so I've stopped carry reloading/cleaning items there. That said, I load my revolver for accuracy, not power. Although 20grn loads are most accurate but I can get away with 25grn without opening groups too much. Definitely accurate enough for a squirrel. Also not concerned about Indians and outlaws 'cause somewhere on my person is my EDC, range or woods.
Same reason i do it. Mainly when i used to shoot for points. Some revolvers can get significantly better groups with less ball jump.
I was told that filler would put the ball nearer to the rifling so that it would not travel as far before engaging the rifling. Thoughts were better accuracy with light loads. After reading the above comments I am not so sure if it means that much.
IMO filler is only needed if the powder charge is too light and won’t take up enough space in the chamber to insure that, when the projectile is seated, it’s in firm contact with the powder. In other words the rammer will bottom out before the ball is home.
Some shooters, real marksmen, hold with the theory the seating the ball as close to the mouth of the chamber as possible will reduce the bullet jump into the forcing cone and improve accuracy.
Some shooters, real marksmen, hold with the theory the seating the ball as close to the mouth of the chamber as possible will reduce the bullet jump into the forcing cone and improve accuracy.
Now, that makes sense about the rammer not seating the ball deep enough on the powder charge. I think I always hear the crunch of the powder being compressed when I load mine. I'll check and listen for it next time.
He spelled that out in his post. Revolver, brass frame, most likely 44 caliber..
