Man, that thing is in fine shape!! Hard to find anywhere at a decent price and when you do they are beat to crap
Last year I purchased a kit from Ken’s Custom Iron that would make 5 different tongs. They had to be drawn out, twisted, shaped, and riveted. I figured if I couldn’t make the tools I had no business going any further. Learned a lot of the basics from it.Knives for sure. Tomahawk heads too. I'll see if I can hammer out a butt plate and trigger guard or two as well. Probably some ebay trinkets like coat hooks and such.
But first will be some hammer heads and some tongs and some hardy tools that I'll need to do that other stuff. I'd absolutely love to make things with tools that I made myself.
The hole on the bottom side is for a porter bar I believe. The forged anvil is welded together in sections. Cast iron anvils are just that, cast. The Fisher-Norris anvil with an Eagle logo on the side is cast iron with a tool steel top face and steel topped horn. Darnedest thing I ever saw. I had to sell it. It drove me crazy..no ring. Was not cracked. It was completely sound. Just didn't ring. Of course, as an old man who wears hearing aids every day, it might have been a better decision to have kept it. There are also old as well as new cast steel anvils.Pretty fair shape for its age. Think I'll have a buddy stick it on the surface grinder and get it flat and true, but the search ended today with half a paycheck and a road trip up into West Virginia.
View attachment 172518
Pretty fair shape for its age. Think I'll have a buddy stick it on the surface grinder and get it flat and true, but the search ended today with half a paycheck and a road trip up into West Virginia.
View attachment 172518
Very definitely there are cast iron anvils. That Fisher-Norris anvil was most assuredly cast iron with a steel face forge welded and the top of the horn steel faced. It was as I remember about 150+ -- pounds and I think it was dated 1858? An eagle logo was present on the side. I used it for a long while. But at outdoor demos, the lack of ring was undesirable. It was not cracked, but perfectly sound. The hammer was lively over the entire top. (I was young and could hear then.)I guess a person learns something every day. Are there really cast iron anvils out there? I always thought cast iron was brittle and a good whack from a hammer would crack it.
If it's old (square tong holes in the base?) there will be three numbers on the far side (hundred weight, stones & lbs - see pic 1) you can use to figure the weight. I found that holding it down with straps works very well. In pic 2 I have the straps bolted to a mobile stand but it could be to a wood base with big lags too. If you're doing light forging I found my mobile stand (pic 3) very convenient however if you are doing heavy forging you'll want something like a buried stump or wood base. In fact if you're doing heavy forging you probably want a tire-hammer (google it). As for your top unless it's bad it would probably be fine with just a clean-up. My anvil in the pic was saddled and had a deep torch cut into it. We spent a whole day with a big rosebud (red preheat for penetration) and a 300A MIG with .045 Ranomatic BBG Hardface and a cup grinder to bring it back. Not for the fiegnt of heart. Welcome to blacksmithing! Read the caption on pic 04. ;-DIt's around 100 pounds i believe. It's a Peter Wright made sometime between 1830 and WWII from what I'm told. It's a wrought iron base with steel face forge welded on.
In addition to holding the anvil down it is also really important to set it at the right height. Perhaps someone could explain it better than I. But I will give it a shot. Standing beside the anvil facing parallel to the line of the anvil, horn to heel, and grasping your forging hammer, the face of the hammer should lay flat on the anvil face, (not tilted!), when your arm is slightly bent at the elbow. Hyperextending the arm is bad. Also if the base is too tall the arm does not straighten out enough to deliver a flat blow to the hot metal. Too high or too low will cause the hammer head to strike the anvil at a slant and leave a divot on the anvil face, especially on a Peter Wright. Couple good reasons to apply the chainsaw properly.If it's old (square tong holes in the base?) there will be three numbers on the far side (hundred weight, stones & lbs - see pic 1) you can use to figure the weight. I found that holding it down with straps works very well. In pic 2 I have the straps bolted to a mobile stand but it could be to a wood base with big lags too. If you're doing light forging I found my mobile stand (pic 3) very convenient however if you are doing heavy forging you'll want something like a buried stump or wood base. In fact if you're doing heavy forging you probably want a tire-hammer (google it). As for your top unless it's bad it would probably be fine with just a clean-up. My anvil in the pic was saddled and had a deep torch cut into it. We spent a whole day with a big rosebud (red preheat for penetration) and a 300A MIG with .045 Ranomatic BBG Hardface and a cup grinder to bring it back. Not for the fiegnt of heart. Welcome to blacksmithing! Read the caption on pic 04. ;-D
I secured my anvils to wooden stumps by heating up say a round bar of mild steel tapered to a point to a good heat and long enough to give it some inches of length to be driven hot into the stump and right up against one of the feet of the anvil leaving enough to be bent over the foot to secure the foot. I think I have used anything from 3/8" bar to 1/2" bar. Hold the pointed pin with a pair of tongs as it will want to pop back up for a while till it cools some and can be driven a little further. The char around the steel pin seems to grip the pin very nicely. Do each of the four anvil feet, bending each down over the foot in turn. Not precise in any sense.If it's old (square tong holes in the base?) there will be three numbers on the far side (hundred weight, stones & lbs - see pic 1) you can use to figure the weight. I found that holding it down with straps works very well. In pic 2 I have the straps bolted to a mobile stand but it could be to a wood base with big lags too. If you're doing light forging I found my mobile stand (pic 3) very convenient however if you are doing heavy forging you'll want something like a buried stump or wood base. In fact if you're doing heavy forging you probably want a tire-hammer (google it). As for your top unless it's bad it would probably be fine with just a clean-up. My anvil in the pic was saddled and had a deep torch cut into it. We spent a whole day with a big rosebud (red preheat for penetration) and a 300A MIG with .045 Ranomatic BBG Hardface and a cup grinder to bring it back. Not for the fiegnt of heart. Welcome to blacksmithing! Read the caption on pic 04. ;-D
Yes, mine is all cast iron. And yes it is brittle compared to steel, I have it secured very loosely with lag bolts steel the feet don’t snap off. But a big hunk of it can take a lot of beating. But since it’s softer too, you don’t get that good rebound effect like a steel anvil. The surface deforms quickly too. I bought mine a year or so ago at Harbor Freight for $70. So it’s about 1/10th the price per pound of a good steel anvil. I think mine is 50 lbs.I guess a person learns something every day. Are there really cast iron anvils out there? I always thought cast iron was brittle and a good whack from a hammer would crack it.
Antique English manufactured anvils were marked with three numbers on the side of the body. The left represented units of 112. The middle, quarters of 112. The right number indicated pounds up to a quarter of 112. It was a now obsolete system called English Anvil WeightIf it's old (square tong holes in the base?) there will be three numbers on the far side (hundred weight, stones & lbs - see pic 1) you can use to figure the weight. I found that holding it down with straps works very well. In pic 2 I have the straps bolted to a mobile stand but it could be to a wood base with big lags too. If you're doing light forging I found my mobile stand (pic 3) very convenient however if you are doing heavy forging you'll want something like a buried stump or wood base. In fact if you're doing heavy forging you probably want a tire-hammer (google it). As for your top unless it's bad it would probably be fine with just a clean-up. My anvil in the pic was saddled and had a deep torch cut into it. We spent a whole day with a big rosebud (red preheat for penetration) and a 300A MIG with .045 Ranomatic BBG Hardface and a cup grinder to bring it back. Not for the fiegnt of heart. Welcome to blacksmithing! Read the caption on pic 04. ;-D
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