first flintlock

[jrbaker90]

Well I finally bought my first flintlock a traditions Shenandoah rifle I had my doubts but it has really impressed me I finally got my flints in last week and I got some powder in today and I been just putting powder in the pan for the first couple of times and I put a blank charge and its done prefect only time it Didn't go off was my own fault I didn't push the powder into the touch hole and I wait awhile and push it into the touch hole and recocked it and it went off perfectly and I've shoot several times Since thanks

 

[Col. Batguano]

You will work up your own procedures to make sure it goes bang each time, but there are more steps to ensure reliability with flint than there are with percussion. Probably the most common reasons most of us get failures to fire is because we;

1.) don't wipe the flint and pan after each shot
2.) don't pick the vent hole for each shot
3.) don't put quite enough powder in the pan
4.) push it a little longer than we should using a dull flint
5.) improperly tempered frizzen
6.) improperly seated flint

Of the above, the dull flint reason is usually the most common reason.

 

[nwtradegun]

if I read it correctly you pushed priming powder into the flash hole. that's a no no. you want a clear channel into the main charge. put a vent pick in each time you load. you don't need a full pant of powder . just each to come below the touch hole.

 

[dikman]

All good points, Col, but I must take exception with #2. My second session with my Frontier I was religiously picking the vent hole, and coincidentally having all sorts of ignition problems. My last session I didn't pick the vent once, and after I poured in the powder I gave the stock a few sharp raps near the lock. Result, only one misfire (shot #18) due to not enough powder in the pan.

I think the Pedersoli Patent Breech needs to be treated a bit differently to a more conventional breech setup.

 

[Alden]

I don't think they're all necessarily good... Most of your points are contestable Col.

 

[Eric Krewson]

According to Pletch's experiments, the closer you have the prime to the main charge the quicker your gun will go off.

I routinely tilt my gun to trickle some prime into my touch hole and have noticeably faster ignition when I do. I have white lightning liners on all the guns I have built.

Procedures like tilting the prime away from the touch hole so it can "flash" into the touch hole are old wives' tales that Pletch has proven to counter productive.

 

[stinkyfeet]

Before I begin this is a general statement not directed at anyone nor a personal attack. That being said think of your gun as a child. While you have your own parenting style (loading/priming)a gun is like a child, your own personal way of parenting (again loading/priming) might not be whats best for the child (gun)they might not responde well to your style and you have to cater to the needs of the individual child(gun) to get the desired result intended. Or in english you cant treat every gun as if it were the same, they each have likes and dislikes, more powder, different powder, very little primer, alotta primer, tight patch, loose patch, 1f, 2f, or 3f vent hole picked, not picked, ya get the point. the advice given is a trial method if it doesn't work don't do it, if your way fails try and try until you find what the gun likes, then write it down so you don't forget if ya have numerous guns like most do.. You can't get stuck in your own personal bias and never be willing to flex or you will fail to achieve maximum potential..

 

[Col. Batguano]

:thumbsup: That was exactly my point. Each gun is different, and will have its' own way that works best based upon the following variables;

1.) How sparky the flint / frizzen / pan combo is, and how the sparks are directed to the pan.

2.) Location, size, length, and shape of the touch hole / vent liner / flash channel, and how clear it is for that shot.

3.) The day's temperature / humidity

 

[BrownBear]

...you cant treat every gun as if it were the same, they each have likes and dislikes....

That's it.

Each of my flinters has it's own personality. If I don't treat it the way it wants to be treated, it goes plumb juvenile delinquent on me. :rotf:

 

[jrbaker90]

I shot it again to and I didn't put as much powder in the pan and it fired fine I did turn it sideways and bump it a couple of times and I didn't use the the vent prick til after I shot to check the vent hole was clean thanks

 

[Pierre du Plessis]

Two very important (but not often mentioned) factors that I have learned, and which have greatly increased my ignition speed:

The flintlock ignition system is different from percussion - the flame from the priming powder is of much lower heat than that of a percussion cap. Thus, the main charge needs plenty of oxygen - a lot more than your typical percussion load. When loading a flintlock, don't tamp down the powder, and don't compress the powder when ramming down the ball. Be sure to seat it firmly on the powder, but don't keep pounding it - you want some air in between the individual powder grains. Just be 110% sure that the ball IS seated on the powder charge - having an air space in between the two can be deadly, causing the barrel to rupture.

Another tip is to take your vent pick (or piece of wire) after loading, and pick not only the vent but the main charge - until you feel the pick hit the far side of the barrel. This opens a "channel", if you will, into the main charge, enabling the flame from the priming to travel further into the powder, leading to a faster ignition.

Hope this helps!

 

[Kapow]

I think you are right about all those points, taking into account the individuality of different guns. I do find my Pedersoli doesn't care too much about picking the vent, but that doesn't mean it isn't best practice to do so.

The other thing I would consider, being the expert I am :hmm: , drill your vent hole out to 1/16". It made a difference to my two flinters. Sometimes I think they are actually more reliable than my percussion rifles but just require a bit more routine loading practices. If I was to go hunting I would want a new flint in place and save the dull ones for the range where it doesn't matter.

 

[jrbaker90]

My first flint got dull and it kind of scared me. I thought it was something else but I got to looking at it and it was dull. i haven't got a knapping hammer built yet so i put the other flint I had in it. I used the traditions flints which is 10$ for 2 is there a different flint that would work? I almost order some from dixie but I thought I should got with the brand they said use but stills it shot good I might try track of the wolf or dixie just wanted to see what yall thought before I order some thanks

 

[Kapow]

Get on Track of the Wolf website and have a look at their flints. They tell you which size is right for you. English or French flints work pretty good.

 

[larryp]

http://www.stonewallcreekoutfitters.com/flints/

I have ordered from these guys and the shipping was fast and the flints I got were perfect shape and size. They also arrived very sharp and give off great sparks.
I use the 7/8" black English flints.

 

[Pierre du Plessis]

Track's black English flints are good and last a long time...

Since last year, I have actually been purchasing my flints at 18th century market fairs, as I am able to hand select them - makes all the difference, and they're almost always cheaper too...

 

[don hepler]

"picking the flash hole" means different things, to different people. I often say, "picking the flash hole", when I actually mean, Using the pick to gently feel for the main charge, without disturbing the main charge. You certainly don't want to push grains of powder,(in the barrel) back away from the charge in the pan. You can see how, just interpreting what people say, and what they actually do, can be misleading. And if you use the pick, to clear the flash hole, before you load the main charge, as opposed to after loading the main charge.

 

[don hepler]

I am very picky, about flints. If you get the opportunity to pick them out of a vendors supply, try to pick ones that are very similar in shape, and flat on top. I carry a homemade aluminum gage that I made, and only buy the ones that fit. They are usually a couple dollars a piece. I use a diamond file to dress, the edge, before having to knap them. I can change out flints, without all the hassles, just by selecting, the ones I want.

 

[Hermanoshawken]

Hello. The Shenandoah rifle is a good rifle. If the lock is the new that makes Ardesa (Bilbao, Spain) for Traditions have no problems with it. The hole of the touch hole have to do it or 1,5 mm, maybe to 2 mm. Pick the touch hole before loading the gun and during the load.

 

[jrbaker90]

It is a new one I really lucked up on it its a factory second it just has some finish problem nothing Major and I got it really cheaper I got it for 439 with shipping I love the gun what makes it more special is i sold a junk motorcycle I had and was wanting to get rid of and I sold it save up some more and I finally got it. Thanks