First time casting

[Crawfish]

So I decided to try my hand at casting .490 balls for my TC Hawken. Breaking out my ancient Lee furnace and molds, which I never got around to using in the 1980s, I set to reading all I could about casting rb.
lee molds had never been used.
all went well, and I am generally happy about the ammo I have cast.
However, I do have a few questions for you experienced guys.
First issue is Lee furnace got a little clogged up. I worked the screw that goes to the nozzle while I cast, with little success. What is the best way to get a nozzle cleaned out?

Second, once I got into a rythm, the balls looked good, but a few of them showed a tiny ridge from where the molds clamp together. Not much in the instructions to stop this. Suggestions?
TIA!

 

[SwanShot]

So I decided to try my hand at casting .490 balls for my TC Hawken. Breaking out my ancient Lee furnace and molds, which I never got around to using in the 1980s, I set to reading all I could about casting rb.
lee molds had never been used.
all went well, and I am generally happy about the ammo I have cast.
However, I do have a few questions for you experienced guys.
First issue is Lee furnace got a little clogged up. I worked the screw that goes to the nozzle while I cast, with little success. What is the best way to get a nozzle cleaned out?

Second, once I got into a rythm, the balls looked good, but a few of them showed a tiny ridge from where the molds clamp together. Not much in the instructions to stop this. Suggestions?
TIA!

I became so frustrated with mine that I took the guts out, blocked up the spout with a tech screw and used a dipper. But---I'm a very impatient man.
There may very well be an answer that I don't know.

 

[waarp8nt]

Started casting with a hot plate, cast iron pot and a lyman ladle. Purchased a Lee bottom pour...AKA....The Lee drip-o-matic Lead Furnace. The Lee Furnace was either plugged / not flowing or partially plugged causing it to drip lead, so I sold mine the 1st chance I got. Went back to my original set up.

Check to make sure the pins in the Lee mold are still in place. They can get loose keeping the mold from fully closing or a sliver of lead can stick to them, thus keeping the mold slightly open causing the ridge. That has happened to me a time or two.

 

[Nazgul58]

Been using LEE pots for 40+ years. Can't bring myself to spend twice the cost on something fancier.

A couple of things:
-The spout will "freeze" (cool off) if the temp is not high enough, turn it up a little.
-Flux the lead, scrape the inside of the pot as you flux and remove the debris. Lots of things work for flux.
-Keep a screw driver handy to turn the valve rod to seal it.
I have no trouble with mine. I would suggest whatever pot you have, put an old cookie sheet under it. That will contain the hot lead if it empties itself while you look away.

My $.02.

Don

 

[dave951]

Been using LEE pots for 40+ years. Can't bring myself to spend twice the cost on something fancier.

A couple of things:
-The spout will "freeze" (cool off) if the temp is not high enough, turn it up a little.
-Flux the lead, scrape the inside of the pot as you flux and remove the debris. Lots of things work for flux.
-Keep a screw driver handy to turn the valve rod to seal it.
I have no trouble with mine. I would suggest whatever pot you have, put an old cookie sheet under it. That will contain the hot lead if it empties itself while you look away.

My $.02.

Don

^^^What he said

 

[French Colonial]

When I was casting thousands of heavy BPCR bullets per year I did not have time to screw around with drippy bottom pour pots. Casting and loading for matches almost every weekend eats up a lot of time.

I bought a Waage pot, yes they are expensive, but they will hold temperature where you set it, hold a lot of lead and have a generous opening for a lead ladle.
My second choice would be a big Lyman with the bottom pour stuff removed and set up for a ladle, thats what I use for round ball.

 

[Don Steele]

If your LEE pot has been out of service for a long time prior to this casting event, I recommend emptying it completely. Take the whole thing apart, buff out the inside with a "wire wheel" attachment on a drill. Buff off the rod that fills the spout from the inside, etc. In other words....get EVERYTHING in there back to bare, clean original metal. Once that's done...NEVER put anything in that pot but metal that has been scrupulously cleaned, fluxed, etc, etc...in a separate system. I use a cast iron pot on a Coleman stove to get the metal clean, then cast the clean metal into ingots to feed my LEE pot when I'm casting. Get a thermometer. Don't waste time trying to cast until the pot is up to temp...800-825 F or so. LEE molds heat quickly simply resting on the lip of the pot so it won't take long before you're ready to go. I've made a "field expedient" cover for my LEE pot that I keep on it when casting. A piece of heavy duty Aluminum Foil, folded over several times to create a thick piece that sort of "molds" over the top of the pot and really helps maintain temperature throughout a casting session. Eliminate distractions in your casting area. I have a 20 lb pot and don't try to replenish the metal as I go. Once I'm getting good balls....just "go like hell...safely" until I'm tired, or the level of molten lead is getting pretty low. Then I put all the sprue cutoffs back in the pot and add more CLEAN metal for the next session.

 

[jdw276]

I take a finish nail, straightened paper clip, hold it with plyers and shove it up the pot nozzle. Loosens up the debris that gathers there from the pours that will get there over time regardless of number of fluxes, scrappings, cleanings. Keep my cornbread lead mold below the nozzle to catch the hot lead and plyers to avoid the lead. You can sure tell when you are getting the clog moved. Kinda like using a bathroom plunger. Stuff really moves.

 

[Shawrco]

“If your LEE pot has been out of service for a long time prior to this casting event, I recommend emptying it completely. Take the whole thing apart, buff out the inside with a "wire wheel" attachment on a drill. Buff off the rod that fills the spout from the inside, etc. In other words....get EVERYTHING in there back to bare, clean original metal. Once that's done...NEVER put anything in that pot but metal that has been scrupulously cleaned, fluxed, etc, etc...in a separate system. I use a cast iron pot on a Coleman stove to get the metal clean”

I’m sure you’re aware, but just in case, be sure to wear some sort of respirator to prevent inhalation of the dust that this cleaning procedure will generate. Good advice to do your general smelting operation in a separate vessel.

I take a finish nail, straightened paper clip, hold it with plyers and shove it up the pot nozzle. Loosens up the debris that gathers there from the pours that will get there over time regardless of number of fluxes, scrappings, cleanings. Keep my cornbread lead mold below the nozzle to catch the hot lead and plyers to avoid the lead. You can sure tell when you are getting the clog moved. Kinda like using a bathroom plunger. Stuff really moves.

This is what I did when I used a Lee bottom pour pot. Agree with keeping some sort of pan/catch device underneath the spout to collect the drips. I suspect if you continue casting you’ll eventually go to a cast iron pot/dipper, but a bottom pour pot is handy for casting up small batches.

I haven’t cast any RB yet, all my comments come from casting heavy cast bullets for BPCR. Enjoy!

 

[Crawfish]

Thanks! I’m sure I did not pay enough attention to getting all the junk out of the pot before I began my quest! Some great tips-thank you!

 

[Johnny Tremain]

A trick I do it all my cast I have a pan with a towel at the bottom, ice water (with ice in it).
I drop the balls into the ice water, it instantly hardens the outside.
Stops round ball from going out of round and conicals from slumping.

 

[Nazgul58]

Actually I have no problem adding lead to the pot as I cast. Keep the temp up a little.
I have cast for a long time. Usually over 10,000 per year . Everything from 45 cal 405 -540 grain bullets, for BPCR to 458 Winchester Magnum.
Mainly do a lot for pistol calibers, 380, 38, 357 44 spec/mag, and lots for 45 Colt. it is the only way I can afford to shoot as much as I do.

Now it mostly RB for the muzzle loaders with some Minie's for a couple of them. Like to cast fo a couple hours a day in the winter when it is cool and shoot all year.

Enjoy.

Don

 

[Timber Wolf]

I have experienced misalignment on older well worn Lee molds and find it helpful to gently tap them after pushing the sprue plate closed.

 

[bang]

Opened the spout on my bottom pour to a #40. Helped a lot. Pours minis fast.
Added a spring to the plunger arm to hold it down.
Got to be 30 years old and still works great.