First time gun owner. Can't seem tighten down the stone in my jaws.

[laagamer]

Really do appreciate everyone's help!

 

[laagamer]

Out of curiosity, what cleaning procedure did you use before oiling?

I swabbed the barrel with simple green cut with water until patches came out clean. Then I cleaned out my touchhole and firing pan, took off my trigger mechanism and lock, oiled everywhere inside there, then oiled outside and inside barrel and stock including outside of mechanisms.

Not too confident taking out the barrel to clean yet, but I'll try it soon. I have a loose pin that need bowing anyway, according to the gurus in my group and person I bought it from. Normally, I'd take all this stuff to him, but he's not feeling well lately. They tell me to just put the pin in a vice and tap it a bit. Figure I'll use a little spike hammer or something.

 

[Trot]

Looks to me like the screw is cross threaded. It did not start in straight when you first put it in and the threads have kind of jammed up. Take the screw back out and look for damage to the threads on the end, also look at the threads in the hole in the hammer as well. If it is not too bad you may be able to carefully re-start the screw straight and run it through, if not you may have to get the threads cleaned up by someone with taps and dies. Worst case scenario, new screw or hammer.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

I agree with Trot. Your threads looks boogered up. You will likely need to run a tap on the hammer and die on the screw. May also be able to just replace the screw through TOW

 

[rich pierce]

Get rid of the top jaw and see if you can tighten the screw easily. This will tell if the threads are screwed. Pun intended.

Also see if the screw is bent. If bent it will press the top jaw back against the post as it wobbles.

Please call it a flint, not a stone. Just for me.

 

[BadDaditood]

I had issues with flints getting loose all too often. So I asked a flint shooter who is smarter than me ( he wasn’t hard to find!) . He said my leather was too thick - even though it’s no thicker than leather pads pictured here, he said to use buckskin.
I don’t have any buckskin but I found some pigskin I use for holster lining. So far flints don’t budge.
A cross threaded jaw screw is a Whole ‘nother critter.

 

[laagamer]

I agree with Trot. Your threads looks boogered up. You will likely need to run a tap on the hammer and die on the screw. May also be able to just replace the screw through TOW

I assume that's Track of Wolf? Heard of them. I'll take a look. Thank you!

 

[laagamer]

Looks to me like the screw is cross threaded. It did not start in straight when you first put it in and the threads have kind of jammed up. Take the screw back out and look for damage to the threads on the end, also look at the threads in the hole in the hammer as well. If it is not too bad you may be able to carefully re-start the screw straight and run it through, if not you may have to get the threads cleaned up by someone with taps and dies. Worst case scenario, new screw or hammer.

I see. Thanks. I'll look into how to do that.

 

[laagamer]

Get rid of the top jaw and see if you can tighten the screw easily. This will tell if the threads are screwed. Pun intended.

Also see if the screw is bent. If bent it will press the top jaw back against the post as it wobbles.

Please call it a flint, not a stone. Just for me.

Ah, thank you. This seems to describe my problem.

And thank you again! Flint is is!

 

[laagamer]

I'm going to take a look guys! I'll get an allen wrench in the loop and try and twist it out.

 

[manbat]

From the video, it looks like there is contact as shown in the picture below stopping it from turning. If it is and you didn't have to crank on it when removed, threads are definitely crossed.

 

[45man]

The jaws need spikes to hold the leather from slipping. Easy to do with a graver and small hammer.
My friends Kibler lock kept losing the flint until I fixed it. Or the flint would turn. Smooth jaw surfaces do not work well.

 

[Graybeard2A]

I had issues with flints getting loose all too often. So I asked a flint shooter who is smarter than me ( he wasn’t hard to find!) . He said my leather was too thick - even though it’s no thicker than leather pads pictured here, he said to use buckskin.
I don’t have any buckskin but I found some pigskin I use for holster lining. So far flints don’t budge.
A cross threaded jaw screw is a Whole ‘nother critter.

Also, thin sheet lead works wonders to keep the flint tight.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Hey guys! Really appreciate the help! Tried to make a couple videos showcasing the problem.



and this one

I'm a ML gunsmith and builder. If you send it to me, I will repair it for you for just parts and shipping. Here's a pic of my shop. [email protected]
Semper Fi

 

[Andrewmtnman]

Very generous of you. Look at all those stocks begging to be worked

 

[Sidney Smith]

Could be a burr on the threads of the top jaw or the ****. My guess it's got metric threads. I'd get hold of a metric tap and die set and chase the threads of both the top jaw and the ****. That should solve your problem.

 

[BadDaditood]

I was just reading that topjaw screws are 1/4”x28 tpi, which has a pretty close metric equivalent

 

[BadDaditood]

Also, thin sheet lead works wonders to keep the flint tight.

I also read that using lead can void your warranty… who knows?
Buckskin or pigskin for me.

 

[Sidney Smith]

I was just reading that topjaw screws are 1/4”x28 tpi, which has a pretty close metric equivalent

Hell, if they're 1/4 x 28 then that's an easy fix. Most any hardware store stocks taps and dies for that size. I just assumed since they're European made guns, or at least used to be(I honestly don't know where they're made now. The one I have was made in Italy), I'm sure they use metric equivalent sizes.

 

[Master Blaster]

I also read that using lead can void your warranty… who knows?
Buckskin or pigskin for me.

Pigskin for me, too.