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Tightening the Jaw Screw?

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It would be near impossible to do damage to a top jaw screw that has a slot cut into it using a normal straight bladed screwdriver. Using a "tommy bar" can most likely do damage to a top jaw screw IF the "tommy bar" was of large diameter and long enough to apply great force to the jaw screw. Most if not all top jaw screws are made of low carbon steel that is used for low strength fasteners and are not made for high strength torque. Now if that top jaw screw is cased hardened then all bets are off :ghostly: :ThankYou:
 
"Torque specs: Tighten until something breaks.. then back off 1/4 turn."

That's how they find the correct weight limits for bridges - keep driving heavier loads over the bridge until it breaks, then back off one ton.
 
please tell me where you got it :(
WHERE PLEASE TELL ME WHERE THIS JUST HAPPENED :(

Where did you find a replacement for $5.00 ? Always handy to have a spare

Here's where I got those jaw screws for $5, but I see it now shows them as unavailable.


Log Cabin Shop

Might be worth contacting them to see if they expect to get them again at some point. Not that it will help you right now.
 
This may have been discussed here before and if it has I am sorry for asking. Is it possible to "Over Tighten" the Jaw Screw when tightening down on a piece of flint? If you can, what damage can be done doing so? I have often wondered and have tried to find information as to what is proper, such as as tight as you can get it or a good snug fit, but haven't found anything. I watched a video a little while back when the shooter fired and the flint came back at the camera, or so it appeared. So I thought I would come to the group I feel is most knowledgeable. Thanks for the insight you give. DANNY
This is another good reason to use flints made from flakes instead of blades, no humps to contend with .
One can , with a Green wheel in the grinder, remove the humps from blade made flints and give the **** jaw a great deal more area to purchase on the flint. Be sure to wear a good dust mask when grinding/working flint.
 
This may have been discussed here before and if it has I am sorry for asking. Is it possible to "Over Tighten" the Jaw Screw when tightening down on a piece of flint? If you can, what damage can be done doing so? I have often wondered and have tried to find information as to what is proper, such as as tight as you can get it or a good snug fit, but haven't found anything. I watched a video a little while back when the shooter fired and the flint came back at the camera, or so it appeared. So I thought I would come to the group I feel is most knowledgeable. Thanks for the insight you give. DANNY
 
This may have been discussed here before and if it has I am sorry for asking. Is it possible to "Over Tighten" the Jaw Screw when tightening down on a piece of flint? If you can, what damage can be done doing so? I have often wondered and have tried to find information as to what is proper, such as as tight as you can get it or a good snug fit, but haven't found anything. I watched a video a little while back when the shooter fired and the flint came back at the camera, or so it appeared. So I thought I would come to the group I feel is most knowledgeable. Thanks for the insight you give. DANNY

One of my pet peeves is people that over-tighten screws, bolts, and nuts. Making your top jaw screw as tight as possible is not required.
If using a new to you gun just snug it up good and check it every other shot or so is a good way to go until you figure out what is right.

The old aviation maintenance practice for threaded fasteners when torque values are not given or not available is to tighten the fastener to a point that is 1/6 to 1/3 of a turn past a significant increase in torque. Special situations in life may dictate otherwise, but the 1/6 to 1/3 thing is pretty good for most things.
 
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Hi,
The owner of one of my fowlers snapped the flint **** off at the neck trying to crank down on the top jaw screw when using a flint much too large. Instead of realizing the jaws could not hold such a thick flint, he just continued cranking the screw tighter until he broke off the jaws. The first trick is to have the right sized flints for your lock and then there is no need to crank down on the top jaw screw. The other issue is modern locks don't have teeth cut in the jaws as they should. The grooves and ridges they do have are mostly useless. Jaws with teeth will hold a leather bound flint nicely without over tightening the top jaw screw.
ndywiSL.jpg


dave
 
With a high hump flint and depending on the position of the hump and flint, you could break the top jaw by over tightening.

Also could strip the threads, male or female by over tightening.

Why not buy a small lapidary abrasive wheel that can be attached to a hand drill and take down the flint hump a little. Should only take a few seconds.
 
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