First time Shooting Blackpowder

[thespeedybee]

My wife won a Lyman Deerstalker .50 cal Flintlock this spring :grin: , and I want to take it out for deer season. I have never shot with a muzzleloader, and I don't know anyone near me who has to get advice from. I have watched some videos, read some books etc. but I still have questions.

My biggest questions are what kind of powder should I use, all I can seem to find around here are the 50 grain pellets. I didn't know if it really made a difference if you use loose powder or the pellets.

The second big question is concerning the bullets. I have read that all lead, specifically patched minne balls are best for what I have, but I bought a "starter kit" for muzzleloading and it came with the copper coated bullets with the little plastic base (not a full sabot)

Unfortunately, I live in a city so I don't have the opportunity to go out and shoot much, so I just want to know that when I do get to camp I have the right equipment to use my gun properly.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[mykeal]

Wow. All the things we say not to do...

Flintlock rifles are funny beasts. They do not generally like synthetic powders and they especially do not like synthetic powder pellets. For best results, use FFg granulated (aka, loose) real black powder. Measure each load with a powder measure - never load the gun directly from a powder flask or can. A good starting load is to use the numerical value of the gun's caliber in grains of powder by volume; a .50 cal gun would use 50 grains by volume. You can use more, however. You can also use FFFg powder.

Flintlocks are also generally happier shooting patched round balls or patched 'minie' balls (conical shaped lead bullets). A good formula is to use a ball/minie ball with a diameter 0.010 inches less than the gun's caliber with a patch that is 0.010 to 0.020 inches thick.

However, the gun may be capable of shooting jacketed sabot rounds as well, and might even do so better than patched round balls. The determinant is the gun's rate of twist. Generally the faster rates of twist (1 in 20) are better for conicals and sabot rounds, while the slower ones (1 in 60) are better for round balls, with 1 in 48 a compromise that will shoot either fairly well.

 

[blafen]

Thats one hell of a wife ya got there :bow:

In general flintlocks dont work well with substitute powders, and work best with real blackpowder, and i think you know enough to never use smokeless.
Also i would use patched roundballs, as most flinters wont have a fast enough twist to stabilize those conicals you have which were designed for inline percussion guns.
Other than that congrats on the new gun and i hope you have a great time!

 

[rabjr]

Unfortunately, I live in a city so I don't have the opportunity to go out and shoot much, so I just want to know that when I do get to camp I have the right equipment to use my gun properly.

I do hope for the animals sake you follow the advice here and shoot it, know where it's shooting before ever going into the woods to hunt.

 

[Zonie]

Welcome to the forum.
You have discovered the best Muzzleloading site on the web. We will gladly answer any of your questions.

Your wifes Deerstalker in Flintlock will not ignite pellet type powder. In fact, few if any sidelock muzzleloaders, percussion or flintlock will ignite those pellets.
The reason is they are made for use in one of those modern things that ignite the powder from the rear.

Flintlocks also require real black powder in the pan for the sparks from the flint to ignite and in the chamber to reliably fire.
Real black powder will ignite at about 470 degrees F. All of the synthetic powders need to be heated to above 800 degrees before they will ignite.
The flash from the pan of a Flintlock will not reliably heat the powder in the barrel to that kind of temperature.
The bottom line is in order to fire your wifes Flintlock you must use granular real black powder.
In your caliber either 3Fg or 2Fg granulation size will work fine. The 3Fg will also work fine in the pan for the ignition source.

As for the bullets, your .50 caliber Deerstalker has 1:48 twist rifling.
This is a compromise which is designed for shooting either patched roundballs or unpatched lead slugs.
These barrels usually will not shoot sabots with pistol/rifle bullets in them. The twist is too slow and the rifling grooves are too deep for sabots/bullets to work well.

The lead slugs (which some folks call minies but a true Minie' is just one type) are not patched when they are shot. They are made to fit just slightly loose in the barrel and are lubricated with a lube like Borebutter 1000, Crisco or some similar non-petroleum lube. When they are fired, they enlarge to pick up the rifling and seal the bore on their way out.

I strongly suggest that you go to the Flintlock Forum area and check out the post(s) at the top of the index which describes what is needed to shoot one of these rifles and how to use it.

I think that after you get your powder (and cleaning jag (button) and a spare flint or two you really need to go to a shooting range and do some practicing. Some folks get a bit unnerved from the flash in the pan and it takes some shooting to get used to it. Also if you don't have them get some large lens shooting glasses. Although the flash in the pan won't reach your face sometimes there are a few burning grains of powder that can.
Also, the flint will often loose small pieces when it hits the frizzen and you really don't want a bit of razor sharp flint in your eyes.

Have fun and keep posting.

 

[Emet Huntsman]

speedybee is a great nic, but please take it slow and easy. There are some things about BP and ML shooting that, if you're not careful, can get you hurt real bad. Check with your local range or gun store if they know anyone with ML experience who would be willing to take you under their wing. Ask around in here if there is anyone near you who can teach you. Please just be careful and you will enjoy the sport a heck of a lot more.

 

[R.M.]

I've just quickly scanned the responses here, so if I'm repeating what others have stated, sorry.
Be sure the projectile, whether it be ball or conical, is seated firmly on the powder charge. An air gap can ruin a barrel with just one shot.
Have fun. Be safe, and make lots of smoke.

 

[thespeedybee]

Trust me that is one of my main concerns as well. I am a very good shot with my rifle, I know I need time and practice with the muzzleloader, but I have the realities of city living to overcome.

 

[thespeedybee]

Thanks. I didn't think that what I was finding in the big box hunting stores I was going to (pellet powder, all sabot rounds, etc) was right. Now I have more direction to start in.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

you need to getch'a some 3F real black. use an '06 case for a measure this is about 72 grs. use 100% cotton for patching material. lots of options for patch lube, unsalted lard or Crisco is one - just a dab will do ya.
and practice with that smokepole some. :thumbsup:

 

[Halftail]

My Deerstalker in 50cal.Flintlock likes 70 grains of 3f Goex(Real Black Powder)a .490 Roundball wrapped in a .020 woven Ticking patch.
Nice little rifle for the Deer woods.Most of the stuff mentioned in my reply can be found online at places like Track of the wolf or perhaps right here on the forum.

 

[TFoley]

I'll just add one small thing - make certain sure before you squeeze the trigger on a crowded range that nobody is standing within about a yard of your right side - always assuming that you have a rifle with the lock on the right, of course.

The flame that comes out sideways from the touchhole is VERY unfriendly.

tac

 

[thespeedybee]

Thanks a lot, I will check around.

 

[bajabuc]

I like a .495 ball and pillow ticking. 70g of 3f will work fine. I have ignition trouble using 3f in the pan and that usually makes me fffflinch. 4f ignites quick. I'm not a paper shooter..and you did mention you were going hunting with it.

 

[thespeedybee]

I had seen quite a bit about using FFFF in the pan, figured I would need all the help I could to keep from flinching. I do plan on hunting with it and couldn't afford to have a big flinch. :shake:

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you focus on the front sight, you won't flinch from the flash in the pan. Practice your follow through, whether shooting off a bench rest, or standing. Dry fire practice with the gun every day, focusing on that front sight.

 

[thespeedybee]

I thought dry firing was bad for the gun?

 

[Zonie]

IMO, you won't see any difference at all between 3Fg and 4F powder in the pan. The flash is almost the same and the time to ignite is within a few thousandths of a second of each other. Save your 4F money for some extra 2 or 3F.

There are two safe ways to practice by dry firing your gun.
The first gives you a feel for the set trigger.
To do this, make sure the **** (hammer) is down in the "fired" position, NOT at half ****.
Then pull the rear trigger until it clicks (this sets it). Then aim the rifle and use the front trigger to "fire" the gun.
Of course this doesn't really fire anything except the set trigger but it does give you a good feeling for when the trigger releases.

The second way to practice is to cut out a piece of hard wood like walnut, oak, maple, birch etc. (anything except pine or fir).
Shape it like a flint and install it in the ****.

Lower the frizzen (pan cover) to the closed position, **** the gun to full **** position, set the rear trigger, aim and fire. (Be absolutely certain the gun is not loaded before doing this.)

Practicing this way will not damage the gun although it does create a bit of wear on the lock.
A good lock should be able to fire thousands of times without breaking so don't worry about it.

 

[Old Sarge]

Speedy...There are a few Forum members closer to you than you think. I live about 40 miles north of you and would be more than happy to invite you to my clubs range some weekend and personally walk you through the whole process. Feel free to e-mail me at [email protected] we'll set something up.

 

[thespeedybee]

Possibly a dumb question, but what do you mean by rear trigger?