First try with aqua fortis

[bioprof]

Put one coat of aqua fortis that I homebrewed on the stock of my Hawkens rifle that I'm building. I haven't even heated it yet and it looks great! I used concentrated nitric acid and 98% pure iron filings from the chemistry lab at the University where I work. I tried vinegar stain and dissolved FeNO3 crystals, and both turned the wood blue-grey when I tested it in the barrel channnel. The AQ turned the wood the prettiest reddish brown that I've ever seen. Sorry for the poor picture. I'll post my progress later. Might have to build another one just so I can use that stain again.

 

[Zonie]

Looking good!
Assuming the wood on the gun was dry when the picture was taken, it already looks pretty dark. I would suggest that you go real easy with the heat.
As you know, heat will darken it more and I've seen some guns which turned almost black when the heat was applied.

 

[LSU TIGER]

You will have to heat it to complete the reaction. Depending on the concentrate (I use 4 oz of 80% acid to a quart of water), you should get a russet color. Neautralize with lye solution (1 tablespoon to a gallon of water) or baking soda solution. Store in an amber jar or paint the existing jar black. It lasts for years.

 

[Stophel]

It's SUPPOSED to turn the wood gray. Is the stock in the photo above still wet?

When you apply the stain, it needs to sit and dry and "pre darken". The wood will turn a greenish or grayish (depending upon the wood). For Red maple, it should sit for at least a half hour. For sugar maple it should sit for at least a full hour. Then heat it.

 

[bioprof]

The stock was still wet when I took the picture. It did dry to a duller russet color. In hindsight, I should have probably diluted it more. Zonie was right. The forestock turned out pretty dark on one side.

It never did turn a greyish color, even when it dried.

 

[bioprof]

Here's a follow-up picture of the results after applying several coats of Tru-oil. It definitely has a lot of contrast. I considered stripping it and redoing it with a more dilute solution of aqua fortis, but had already applied a 50:50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. I was afraid that the oil would bead up on the wood when I heated it the second time, so I just went with what I had. Next time I'll know to dilute it by about 4:1 or 5:1 first.

 

[kmeyer]

I think it looks great now I love reddish stain. Did you buy the stock from a supplier? Mind if I ask what grade is it?

 

[bioprof]

I think it looks great now I love reddish stain. Did you buy the stock from a supplier? Mind if I ask what grade is it?

I bought it as a second from track of the wolf. It had three knots in the butt, so I got it for half price. They just called this their fancy maple grade. I think I got a heck of a deal. There is one large knot in the cheek rest that I could have covered up with an inlet, but I thought it added character so left it as is.

 

[flashpanner]

Why is heat necesary if the wood already has the right color, intensity and contrast? "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!"

 

[bioprof]

Why is heat necesary if the wood already has the right color, intensity and contrast? "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!"

I think I've heard that if you don't heat it enough, it can turn green years down the road. You also have to neutralize the acid or it will continue to darken with age.

 

[SAJones]

At's true; my first rifle, ol' Firewood, ended up w/ a green tinge 'cause I didn't heat it enough. Fraid I was gonna burn it. After 25 years, it's getting more brown, but the green tinge is still visiblie in strong light.