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Fixed Powder Measures

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misher

45 Cal.
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I have been looking at getting some fixed powder measures to be closer to authentic at events. All the ones that I can find give the grains that they hold. But none that I have looked at specify if they measure in 2f or 3f. Anybody have a clue about that?? :idunno:
 
In my experience, the only time it makes a difference is if your dealing with weighed charges, typically we do a volume charge and it makes no difference if your using 2f or 3f.
 
AP is right, volume is volume.
The powders may act different but the volume measure is too darn close to matter.
A little custom work to any measure is usually due, a leather gasket/spacer pushed in tight to change the amount tossed or epoxy to take up space,,
A drill bit to make it deeper,,
 
AK Mike said:
I have been looking at getting some fixed powder measures to be closer to authentic at events. All the ones that I can find give the grains that they hold. But none that I have looked at specify if they measure in 2f or 3f. Anybody have a clue about that?? :idunno:

It's true if you use the same volume measure to pour a charge of Goex 2F vs. Goex 3F...the volume of 3F will "weigh" less.
My brass measure set at 100grns throws 100grns weight of 2F...but when it full of 3F that charge only weighs 94grns.
BUT.....so what.
At least in my opinion, bottom line I find a particular size measure of powder that gives me what I'm looking for in a given load / given rifle / smoothbore, and settle on that...regardless of what the charge might actually "weigh"...or if 2F weighs more than 3F, etc.
To me, it would only matter after finding a particular measure that works, to weigh the charge so if I lose that measure and have to get / make another one, I know what to build it to and not have to waste a lot of money reinventing the wheel at a range.
 
AK,
I often use bamboo for powder measures. Pour in whatever charge you want it to hold, mark the top of the powder on the side and cut it off. If you want to make it a lighter charge, pour in some wax and shorten the tube.
Mark
 
Hey Mike, do you have any moose antlers lying around? You can make your own fixed measures with antler tips. You can make some nice measures by hollowing out an antler just enough for your charge. I've made some out of deer antler. It's pretty easy to work with.

HD
 
Huntin Dawg said:
You can make some nice measures by hollowing out an antler just enough for your charge.
HD
:thumbsup:
Start with a 3/8-5/16 drill bit.
Look around the craftsmen forum for lot's of tips on that,, :wink:
 
I have non adjustable powder measures hanging on all of my shooting bags. They are made of solid wood, bamboo, horn or brass. I like having the non adjustable measures on my bags so I will load the same uniform charge each time I shoot on primitive matches and woods walks. The adjustable measures are in my range box for when I am working up new loads. I used to hang adjustable measures on my bags. Many years ago I was at Friendship shooting behind the old cabin. They had a large hollow log out there that we had to set on to simulate shooting off a horse. This particular shoot we were shooting smoothbores. We had to load and shoot while setting on the "horse" The target was a heavy steel groundhog hanging out at 40 yards. I was using a .60 caliber Curley made Trade gun. Well I got up on the horse, put the reigns in my teeth and loaded my one shot. Unknown to me the screw on my measure was loose so my normal 60 grain load was boosted to 120 grains! All of the hits made the groundhog swing pretty good. I actually remained on the horse but the recoil was dramatic. My hot shot flipper the groundhog over on top of the frame! After this I started making or buying non adjustable powder measures for my shooting bags. These adjustable measures still get me at the range every once and a while but at least I am not setting on a horse with the reigns in my teeth! This incident happened in 1980 at the spring shoot.
 
Responses so far use the word "make". Do consider making yer own. To me, that is a big part of the fun of this ml insanity. I have made many measures of several types of material (horn, antler, wood, copper pipe, even goat horn). Quite easy to do. Make a bit oversize then stuff something in the end to reduce charge or cut shorter.
I'm a little lazy for the pic taking this this a.m. But, the soft copper pipe idea is a good way to start and very simple. Using yer adjustable measure, set to volume desired, take a good look at it and, in yer mind, try to remember wat it looks like. Then cut the pipe, guesstimating, over length. Hope you allowed about 1/2" at the bottom. :doh: Then just squish the bottom in a vice, drill a thong hole, grind off the sharp corners and use. In very short order the thing will get a nice dark and grungy patina. It will blend in nicely with your other fake rendezvous accoutrements and you will be on yer way.
For rendezvous use, I make mine a half-charge (e.g. 35 gr.) since most targets are novelty types at very short range. If needed for longer ranges or hunting I just measure twice. (that makes 70 gr. if ye ran out of fingers. :wink: )
 
Ghettogun said:
your other fake rendezvous accoutrements
Say it like it is :rotf:
Amen !
My all time favorite...typically coming from those who find fault with everything not being "PC/HC"...is that they have their modern insulated plastic Coleman ice chest / cooler hidden inside a wooden crate they made to look like it supposedly traveled cross country in the back of a Conestoga Wagon or something.
:rotf:
 
As Rifleman said, much of the fun involved with muzzleloaders is making as much stuff as you can, yourself. I am not the least bit good as a craftsman and most of the things I make look, well, plain, ugly or just plain ugly. Still they work as intended and have at least an "aura" of traditional. I make shooting bags, ball bags, powder measures and more.

I use these cobbled measures in the woods and make them from antler and bamboo. If it wasn't easy to do there's no way I'd be able to do it.
PICT0576-1-1.jpg

PICT0596-1.jpg

PICT0399.jpg

PICT0382.jpg

Just a little of the school kid level stuff I've made and use. Once you get started making stuff it is difficult to stop.
 
Get yourself a Winchester 45-70 case it measures 70 for a dollar, then grind off all of the markings you don't want to see to make it the look you want.
 
Since I shoot all manner of guns, I use a powder scale when I make a powder measure. I know, I know, that we use volume to measure for our muzzleloaders, but I wanted to use a constant measurement. At one time I owned 3 different brand of BP measures. Talk about screwing you up! One threw almost 20 gr. different than the others. I kept one that was accurate to my powder scale and sent the others to the land fill.
 
Because we have a lot of people who are new to muzzleloading, when people talk about measuring powder with a weight scale I feel obligated to throw in my warning for them.

If you are measuring real black powder with a weight scale then go ahead and use it to measure the amount fixed powder measures pour.

If you are measuring any of the synthetic black powder substitutes NEVER use a powder weight scale to measure the amount a fixed powder measure pours.

The reason is that almost all of these synthetic powders weigh far less than real black powder per cc.

They do have similar POWER per cc though.

They are all designed to be measured by volume only. Never by actual weight.

Trust me on this. If you weigh out 90 grains (actual weight) of Pyrodex, the little pile of powder will have the energy of a 120 grain load of real black powder.
 
I apologize for all the pics as what I wanted was only to post the pics of the measures. Not trying to show off; they are fairly crude which is as good as I can get. :td:
 
I have made my fixed powder measure out of a gourd handle. Works fine and is lightIt is 70 grains for my Brown bess. mudd turtle.
 
So question from a new guy. I understand the need to load by volume but how many CCs are in a grain?



Semper Fi
BDA
 
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