Fixing TOW screwdriver

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A while back I bought three screwdrivers from TOW.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/120/1/TOOL-TURN-U

The description says they are tempered. Well”¦.maybe I just got a bad batch, but the three they sent me were more like annealed. The slightest amount of torque twisted the screwdriver instead of the screw. I pretty much chalked it off to the “oh well” category but hoped that they might be tweakable.
This morning I had a little time on my hands so I decided to give it a shot.
The first step was to straighten the blade. It was bent cold to begin with, so making it straight cold was no big deal.
The next step was to harden it.
A few minutes with a mapp torch on the blade tip turned about ½ to ¾ of an inch a nice bright cherry red. It was then quenched in water. Cooking oil would probably have been better, but water was what I had available.
Next was the tempering process.
A quick sanding (150 grit) shined up the tip to where it transitioned from flat to round. I then applied the flame of the torch to the round section just behind the flat/round transition. When I got a dark blue about ¼ inch or maybe just a little less from the tip I quenched again.
The acid test, whether or not it would break or still twist in use was performed and it passed.
One down, two to go.
I haven’t done any blacksmithing in many, many years so it’s possible - even likely - that I should have relied on different colors for tempering. I was doing it from memory. So far, what I did use seems to have worked.
Alternative suggestions for the next two are welcomed.
 
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You did good. Here's a chart that might help:

Faint-yellow ”“ 176 °C (349 °F) ”“ engravers, razors, scrapers
Light-straw ”“ 205 °C (401 °F) ”“ rock drills, reamers, metal-cutting saws
Dark-straw ”“ 226 °C (439 °F) ”“ scribers, planer blades
Brown ”“ 260 °C (500 °F) ”“ taps, dies, drill bits, hammers, cold chisels
Purple ”“ 282 °C (540 °F) ”“ surgical tools, punches, stone carving tools
Dark blue ”“ 310 °C (590 °F) ”“ screwdrivers, wrenches
Light blue ”“ 337 °C (639 °F) ”“ springs, wood-cutting saws
Grey-blue ”“ 371 °C (700 °F) and higher ”“ structural steel
Mike C.
 
Thanks for the chart. It looks like I maybe should have let the dark blue get to the tip before quenching. Oh well, that's easy to correct.
The one thing I wonder about is how universal the chart is i.e. 1050 vs.1095 or some of the fancier alloys. In the case of the TOW screwdriver I have no idea what kind of steel I'm playing with.
Any discussion of steel always reminds me of some ad copy for bicycles in a 1980s something Sears catalog. Prospective buyers were told that the frames were made from "Alloy 1020 steel". As long as you didn't know that 1020 is, for all practical purposes, impossible to heat treat, it sure sounded impressive.
 
Randy,
You're right, but I think you'll find in the tempering range's, be it 1045 or 1085, the colors will be close enough when using a torch. A very accurate oven might vary slightly.
When I use O-1 I stay around the brown phase. Slightly harder but not brittle.
Had a fellow make me up four screw drivers, hand forged and twisted very nice. They were 1018 so I case hardened the with "Cherry Red" for a little over an inch. Sharpened them up to fit my flinter and no problems.
Mike C.
 
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