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Flint and Steel

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my hat is off to you, sir! :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

there are now 33 more kids who know at a gut level that there are more important things than the latest video game!

(of course, thier parents probably brough them to the meeting ... parents ... involved with their childrens' developments activities ... wow- there might be something to that notion)
 
It takes some time to learn how much you have to blow on an ember to get it to grow, and how close you have to hole the nest of tinder to the char clothe to get the heat from the burning ember to transfer that heat to the tinder. Humidity affects how well both the char cloth and your tinder will burn.

On damp days,( like now), I recommend( and do) using an extra piece or two of char clothe, to place behind and next to the piece with any kind of ember. This give you more material that is thin, and dry to blow the ember into to get some real HEAT.

DO NOT HANDLE your hemp, jute, or other tinder alot in humid conditions, or any time its hot enough that your hands are sweating. The perspiration from your own hands is enough to dampen the tinder so its next to impossible to get to light. BTDT.

If the sun is out, place the tinder on a rock, or bare log, or piece of bark wide enough to hold it, and let it heat up in the sun's rays. Pick a spot to put the tinder that is already out in the sun- not something you pull from shadows, or from under leaves. You want a DRY SURFACE to put your tinder on- not something that is even more wet than your tinder.

Take your time. When you begin to start your fire, the tinder should be hot to your hands. ( Not hot enough to burn, but hot enough to notice.) The heat will dry the humidity, and any sweat from your hands out of the tinder. Heat rises, and with it goes the humidity.

Don't over handle your char cloth, for the same reason. You spent a lot of time Making it, so its very dry, to catch sparks, so don't ruin it by sweating all over it.

When you go to blow the embers into you tinder nest, put the nest above your face and eyebrows. blow up into it from underneath. cup your hands around the nest to contain the heat. Trust me, you will drop the tinder nest faster than it can burn your hands.

I think the hardest part of starting a fire with primitive skills and materials is learning to be prepared to BUILD a fire once you have the tinder burning. That means, picking, and sorting sticks that are bone dry( they should pass the snap test: if they don't snap when you bend them, they are too wet to use.) and then laying them out within reach near the place you choose to make the fire.

A lot of people have no idea where to search and find dry tinder in the woods, or anywhere else. I once started a fire for my best friend in his fireplace, using tinder I obtained out in his flower beds and yard after 3 days of constant rain. I found dead twigs under and in the back side( away from the sun) of his yew bushes in his front flowerbeds. In his backyard, I found dead branches broken off during the last spring stormes, and still hanging in the limbs and branches of several trees. They had been wetted by the three days of rain, but the winds were drying them off, and they were dry as bones on the insides, and passed the "snap test" easily. Those branches provided me with sticks that were about 1 foot long, and 1/2 -3/4" in diameter, and they were dry.

I threw sparks with my flint and steel into some char cloth, then blew that ember into my tinder, which was made from a length of hemp rope I coil in my fire starting kit for this purpose. From there I began building the tipi with toothpick thick sticks from the Yew bushes. The sap in these sticks also burns hot. From there on, it was simply a matter of building the tipi on his hearth, going up on thickness of sticks, until I was putting my 3/4" sticks on the final tipi. I pushed the entire mass of burning sticks into the fireplace and under an Osage log that was a fork in a tree, and had been impossible to split further, and even more impossible to light the night before with newspapers. The log was burning within 10 minutes of pushing my tipi under it. Of course, all the attempts with newspapers the night before had helped to dry the log out, making it easier to get to burn, but that tipi I built surely was not going to allow that log to say" NO" anymore!

You will want to build a tipi of sticks, around the burning tinder, starting with the smallest sticks you have chosen( 1/16" or smaller. The small dry sticks will catch fire the quickest. They are surrounded in the tipi with larger sticks, 1/8", then 1/4" , etc. until you have one inch and larger branches being set on fire by a very hot interior tipi of smaller sticks. From those one inch diameter sticks, you should be able to light just about anything larger, within reason. That original tipi of small sticks should be completely consumed by the fire, and replaced with white hot coals.

Once you have a good hot fire going with large, dry logs, you can dry out wet logs by lining them around or next to the fire. That prepares you to build a new fire the next day, or for the next meal. All you need is more dry tinder, and more char cloth to begin your next fire.

Practice this many times in your backyard, or when camping so that one day you feel comfortable leaving lighter fluid, and matches and cigarette lighters, etc. at home. When you get good enough at these skills to not need matches to start a fire, no matter the weather, then, and ONLY THEN, are you prepared to go out into wilderness conditions and survive with tools you make, or use to make fire. As you master one technique, you will want to learn even more primitive techniques. I learned to use flint and steel to start fired more than 30 years ago. Since then, I have learned to use a bow and drill, and how to make my bow and drill from wood and rocks I can find in the forests. I have mastered my "Fire Piston", too. Next on the list is the hand drill, and the fire saw, as well as other friction techniques. :shocked2: :thumbsup:
 
Thank you, sir, for the advice. :hatsoff: I didn't have the flint sharp enough (not like in my flintlocks) and the char cloth would break off (between my thumb and flint) when I struck with the steel. I was not hitting the char. When I went through my "stash", I cut some heavy duty cheesecloth into square (this is almost like wire mesh), put it in a press fit container with a small nail hole. Threw this on the grill, while cooking lunch, for only 10-15 minutes tops. It came out great and works fine! Part of keeping the ember glowing, that worked for me, was to wave the nest in the air. Poof! Flames! Once again, thank you!

Now, maybe, I can teach my cadets this next year. They'd love this.
 
I have used bundles of dry straw, and tall, dead grasses, as tinder. You put the charred cloth in the middle of the bundle, then fold the bundle over it to cover it. Now, swing your arm around in a big circle, and when it comes around in front of you, the straw should be on fire. Its very Demonstrative when showing large audiences how to start a fire with flint and steel. When your audience is only one or two people, you can blow the flames into the tinder as previously described.

I have mentioned several times to keep the bundle above your eyebrows. You don't want the fire to burn your eye brows, and you don't need to be inhaling smoke by blowing DOWN into the bundle. BTDT. Felt Stupid as all getout! :redface: :idunno: :wink:
 
For sure many people of all ages are astonished by flint and steel fire starting.I recently have just started fooling with my kit and showed it to a friend and his young son.Gave them their own flint and steel now they are showing people.I always take mine in my pack when out hunting and trapping in the fall and winter.
Slightly off topic.....On one of those shows on OLN the other night I seen a dude boil water in a plastic water bottle over an open flame.I'm going to try that. :v
 
Flint311 said:
Well, I tried it today and got fire twice. Both times I needed to use charred wood pieces along with the char cloth (could NOT get it to work without). Any idea why? First time I used tow and the second time I used the jute from the flower basket material. Both worked the same I'd say, but these are the first two times starting fire this way. It is amazing when it works! I was having trouble getting sparks, at first. Then the char cloth wouldn't hold spark well, but when it did, wouldn't start the nest material. Had to blow on it real hard. Is that normal? This was a "kit" from the Kalamazoo Living History show about 4-5 years ago, so not sure on the quality of char cloth. Maybe wrap the tow tighter to the glowing char?

A couple things -
First, if you're getting really good sparks from your striker that helps. A well tempered one makes a lot of difference - you want white or really bright sparks and not dull red ones.
Second, starting a fire with charred wood is just harder in my experience. I've used "punk" wood to make it and sometimes it's great, but other times it's not. Still don't have the exact science down on it yet.
Third, it's possible that your charcloth that isn't holding a spark is either a little damp or not cooked enough. It should be black, not brown, but should still keep a lot of strength.
Last, if you happen to have any wild grapevines in your area I have found the dry outer husk from them works great as tinder. You have to roll it between your hands to get to the fibers and it is a little harder to light, but once it's lit, IT'S LIT!
 
I also hold the fling steady and strike down with the steel. Works much better for me.
 
Are most strikers tempered? I just hardened mine I made out of an old file and it sparks well.
 
Harden just the striking part of the striker. The rest should be softer to keep from breaking (so I've read).

Just a note on my striker. I posted above that it may be too hard or ??, because it wouldn't spark well sometimes. I found a gray rock that makes sparks to literally sizzle (what you want). The black one that came with it works, but not like I've been able to find in, ahem, landscape rocks :shocked2: . I've stored some up to keep on hand.
 
Flint311 said:
First time I used tow and the second time I used the jute from the flower basket material.

I live in Kentucky, and we have a tree here we call red cedar. It's not really cedar but a type of juniper. Mature trees develop a loose stringy covering/bark which can be easily peeled off with your hands. You can take a small sheet of that and crush and rub it in your hands and wind up with a bird's nest of fibers. It is great tinder, catches and holds a spark well and burns hot when it flames up. I collect a plastic bag full occasionally and keep it in the dry. It lasts forever. Whenever needed I crush a small leather bag full for my fire starting kit.

If you ever intend to rely solely on your flint and steel in situations where you really need a fire, I think it's important to carry a small candle in your kit. If the wood is wet, just getting fire in your hand won't always do the job, but if you light a candle with that first burning tinder, it's all downhill from there.

Spence
 
goon said:
Second, starting a fire with charred wood is just harder in my experience. I've used "punk" wood to make it and sometimes it's great, but other times it's not. Still don't have the exact science down on it yet.

I've had good luck with charwood. It holds a spark a lot longer than even charcloth, in my experience. I've found that dead and dry but not punky wood works best. It should be dead long enough to start getting light, but still hard. I don't usually know what kind of wood it is. Shelf fungus works well, too.

I strike sparks by placing my tinder in my left hand, laying the flint on top of that, then fold the charcloth over the sharp edge of the flint. Striking down with the striker cuts through the cloth and catches the spark easily. Drop the flint and away you go. Can't do that with charwood, so I usually switch things around. I keep my charwood in a small brass box with burning lens, and I just set that down and drop sparks right into the box by holding my striker in my left hand and striking downward with the flint. When a piece of wood catches a spark I take it out and lay it in the tinder and Bob's your uncle. I also really like charwood on a sunny day when I can use a burning glass. That's a very quick and dependable method.

Spence
 
Lots of good advice, thanks. We had cedar close by, until a subdivision took care of that. I've been able to get shelf mushrooms in the backyard. Any special preparation to get it to work? It's drying in the garage, as it was alive a couple weeks ago.
 
Flint311 said:
I've been able to get shelf mushrooms in the backyard. Any special preparation to get it to work? It's drying in the garage, as it was alive a couple weeks ago.

I haven't use a lot of it. I just let it dry well, broke it up into reasonable size pieces and treated just like any other wood. I saw no real advantage to it.

Spence
 
I know everybody has a preferred method and components for their kit.

I haven't seen mention in this thread of what I use. I have a length of cotton sashcord. Any small diameter COTTON rope will work. I have a brass tube about 2" long that I keep the cord shoved through.

You need to light the end of the cord once and then withdraw it back into the tube where it will go out and leave a nice charred end on the cord. Leaving inside the tube protects the charred end and keeps it ready to use. Here's a picture. This thing hasn't been lit in 4 or 5 years and it'll fire up right now if I want it to.
FLINTandSteel003.jpg


I keep it in a little tinder box set up that even has solar assist if you get lazy or PO'd from knockin the bark off your knuckles.
FLINTandSteel004.jpg


I guess you can tell by the green stuff it's been sittin in the bag for a spell. LOL
 
Shade Tree Willie said:
I have a length of cotton sashcord. Any small diameter COTTON rope will work. I have a brass tube about 2" long that I keep the cord shoved through.
That method works very well. I have used it in the past, don't remember why I don't, now. It worked especially easily for me with the burning glass.

I keep it in a little tinder box set up that even has solar assist if you get lazy or PO'd from knockin the bark off your knuckles.
I use exactly the same. Truth be told, I rarely use my traditional flint and steel. If the sun is shining I use my burning glass or the one in the top of the tinder box. If the sun isn't out I stick a piece of charcloth in the pan of my flintlock and catch a spark by dropping the hammer. That's one flint and steel which never lets you down.

Willie, I know just what you mean about knocking the bark off.

booboo.jpg


Spence
 
George said:
Flint311 said:
I've been able to get shelf mushrooms in the backyard. Any special preparation to get it to work? It's drying in the garage, as it was alive a couple weeks ago.

I haven't use a lot of it. I just let it dry well, broke it up into reasonable size pieces and treated just like any other wood. I saw no real advantage to it.

Spence

Not all Bracket Fugi is true "Tinder Fugus" a web search of that term will show ya lot's of info and Photo's.
The tinder fungus is usually scraped to form a pile of dust or shaving, then the spark directed into that pile,,it works quite well. :grin:
 
necchi said:
The tinder fungus is usually scraped to form a pile of dust or shaving, then the spark directed into that pile,,it works quite well.
If I remember correctly, tinder fungus isn't cooked, but used raw, shredded. The "shelf' fungus I'm speaking of is different stuff. There are many different types of shelf fungi, some edible, etc, but the type I use is as hard as wood. What I do with shelf fungus is just make charwood of it the same way I do other wood.

Spence
 
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