Flint fouling

[skull]

Hi folks... I'm a newbie here... I just got my first flintlock, a Lyman Trade rifle. I live in Canada, eh? and it's a problem getting black powder here now. I've been using Pyrodex RS and P, which seem to work fine, but I have a problem with SECOND shots. The flint fouls like crazy and needs to be cleaned between loads or it won't give a spark... is this normal??!?!?

-Skull

Keep your stick on the ice.

 

Skull,.... Yore Lyman Trade Gun has a coil-spring for the "main spring" ('stead of the stronger typical "V" spring), so I'm guess'n thet the "condition" of FLINT and FRIZZEN might have to be more "near perfect" in order to git reliable sparks.

I'm also guess'n, thet yore use'n "real" blackpowder for "prime'n" in the pan, and also as a "primer" for yore main-charge, eh????

BTW,.... Welcome to this site, I'm sure yore gonna like it here!!

 

[musketman]

Hi folks... I'm a newbie here... I just got my first flintlock, a Lyman Trade rifle. I live in Canada, eh? and it's a problem getting black powder here now. Keep your stick on the ice.

Another Red Green fan... :haha: ::
Welcome to the forum...

Pyrodex doesn't lend itself well to flintlocks as a main charge, it also bites as a priming charge, but don't give up, look what I found for you...

You might want to try one of these, both are GOEX black powder distributors in your great country:

John Emmett
527 Glendale Avenue
St. Catharines, Ontario RR#1
Thorold, Ontario L2V 3Y5
905-227-3342, FAX: 905-227-5851

McLeod's Blasting Supplies
4546 Lochside Drive
Victoria, BC, Canada V8X2E1
250-658-2535, Fax: 250-658-2056

 

[Birddog6]

Other than the manure you are being force to use fr powder, the main reason you hare having a problem is the size of the vent hole. If you do a vent mod. and drill it out to .0781 (5/64") and cone the inside & outside of the vent a tad with a #2 center drill you will find your ignition Considerably better. Also I would load with a hand forged vent pick (Tracks)bent into a arc on the last 3/4" & going into the charge each time. When you load it bump the sideplate area a couple times with your palm real good to insure the powder is getting into the patent breech.
Also, if you are swabbing, iI find it best to have the Jag about .025 to .030 smaller than bore size & the 1st land of the jag should be about .010 smaller than the others, as this way the jag & patch pushed past the cruds rather than grabbing the cruds & pushing tit into the breech.

Hope this helps.

Birddog6

Custom Muzzleloaders & Custom Knives

 

[CG6018]

Skull: The vent pick suggestion from Birddog6 is a good one, and I might add this. File that last 3/4" of the vent pick into a square shape so you have sharp edges for scraping the inside of the vent. It cleans up the vent real nice. We use flashguards where I shoot to protect the man standing next to you, so the 90

 

[2172]

Skull, all good info from real experts, but I'm surprised that no one mentioned wiping off the flint edge after each shot...I learned to do it watching a couple of experienced guys, and it improved my ignition a good deal...Hank

 

[Birddog6]

Sorry, I miss read that. I thought I read the vent was fouling.
Flint is fouling.... Whole dif. bag of worms. Use black english flints, 3/4" on a GPR. (Flints are measured by width not length) Try it bevel up & bevel down & you will see one way will work better for yours. Wipe the flint off & frizzen off after ever shot, and especially Under the flint edge. I usually just put a rag over my finger & stick it in my mouth & wet it & wipe the frizzen & flint & the dry with same rag. (Ol teeshirt does good) About every 5 shot I usually move my flint just a tad & about every 10 shots I knapp the flint just a tad. I like mine to look like teeth of a saw, thus when the front edges knapp themselves off they make new sharp edges. If you wait too long to knapp, the edge get too big to knap & then a large chunk will knapp instead of a small flake, thus ruining the flint.
Make sure you flint is always Tight in a thick piece of leather in the jaw. On the GPR I have to cut a notch out of the leather at the jaw screw to get the 3/4" flint back far enough.
I don't use sawn flints or Duraflints, tho some like them. I like the Tom Fuller black English flints from October Country.

 

[musketman]

Skull, all good info from real experts, but I'm surprised that no one mentioned wiping off the flint edge after each shot...

hank: we were saving that tip for you to post... ::

If I may add to your great suggestion, be careful on wiping the flint's edge, it will cut through the cloth and into your finger/thumb...

That's one of the jobs flint has, being a knife...

 

[tommy b]

Also, if you are swabbing, iI find it best to have the Jag about .025 to .030 smaller than bore size & the 1st land of the jag should be about .010 smaller than the others, as this way the jag & patch pushed past the cruds rather than grabbing the cruds & pushing tit into the breech.

I always wondered why the first few lands of my T/C (I think) jag were smaller than the rest.It sure makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

tommy b

 

[CG6018]

There is some great stuff being suggested on this query. I can not disagree with Birddog6 on the English flints. I usually get mine from Track of the Wolf, but since I live close to Dixon's Muzzleloader Shop, home of the Gunmakers Fair, I have been using French flints during hunting season. I really hesitate to mention that, but there is one thing, (and maybe only one thing), the French have going for them, and it is their flints. They are a bit pricey, but you will be amazed at the spark they throw and how well they hold up. Enjoy this sport, it has rejuvinated this old-timer!

 

[TwoShadows]

All I know is that anyone who goes to Paris and jumps in the river is in Seine.....

 

[CG6018]

Twoshadows: I offered my suggestion of using French flints as an option to using the English flints. It wasn't a political statement, but simply an alternative to making a flintlock function as effectively as possible. French flints were desirable by the Colonial forces during the Revolution for the same reason.

 

[Deadeye]

Birddog has a good system, mine is much the same. I have a 10" inch piece of flannel, a pan brush, and a triangular tapered vent pick that are pinned to the left side of my shirt and hang down a few inches. Very handy to brush the pan, wipe the frizzen and flint, and clean the touch hole.
Deadeye

 

[TwoShadows]

You are certainly correct...just my attempt at humor.

 

[musketman]

French flints were desirable by the Colonial forces during the Revolution for the same reason.

American flints were out of work and the Colonialist were using French ones... :shocking:

Didn't they check for the union lable? :haha:

 

[skull]

Well, after listening to you folks (and yer right, it's a GREAT resource), I knapped the flint and the spark improved right off. Trying just a primer in the pan, I could get around three ignitions without cleaning, and then it began to foul and light only about 25% of the time... makes you wonder how anybody in battle would get off more than a couple of shots reliably.... oh, and I thought I would just sew up a little leather pouch for my knapping tools... you think that's how they came up with a "knapsack"????



-Skull

 

Skull,.... Most of us wipe the flint and frizzen 'tween each an ever shot for the best sparks.

How's she spark when you "flip" the flint over, or have you tryed it thet way yet?? The flint should strike 3/4th. the way up the frizzen face and shave all the way down.

 

[Deadeye]

Skull, All you need for knapping is a short rod about 2" long an 1/8" or so in diameter, file about a 1/16" notch on 1 end, set the notch on the edge of the flint and hit it with anything, knife, short starter or whatever, it will take off a small flake. Best knapping tool ever devised.
Deadeye

 

[musketman]

Skull: You never stated if you are using flint ot agate...

Is the "flint" white or light gray, or dark and smokey blackish in color?

Also, bevel up or bevel down, here is an old debate...
Try it both ways and see which way your gun likes...

What about the face of the frizzen, (the part the flint strikes against) is it pitted and uneven?

Does the frizzen spring offer some resistance when you open it?

When you set your flint in the jaws, how far is the gap between the flint and the striking face of the frizzen?

All of these can cause weak sparks along with a dirty flint, just something to check out...

Over time, all of this will become second nature and you will adjust them automatically...

 

[skull]

The stock Lyman flint is grey... I flipped it bevel down, and lo and behold it sparks great. AND the spark seems to hit the pan better. It still only hits the bottom 1/2 of the Frizzen, and I try to maintain a 1/8" gap when half-cocked. (There's another one of those old sayings. "Don't go off half-cocked". Hmmmmmmm.)

And THANKS AGAIN!!! Ah should be able to do me some shootin' on the back 5 this weekend....

-Skull