Flint length problem

[walley]

I ordered two extra 3/4" black english flints
with my rifle when I bought it. A few days ago
I was out shooting it and had to change the flint.
Well, the width of the flint matched the frizzen,
but it was too long. At half cock it rested
firmly against the frizzen and was back up against
the bolt in the cock. I went ahead used it and
it shot ok, but knocked a chip off the outside
corner of the flint. "Should show up in the pic"
Now the cutting edge not hitting the frizzen
squarely across.

Questions:
Can this flint be knapped back in to shape for
correct size, or would it to use it as is?
When dealing with a long flint, is it better to
remove the material from the back of the flint or
the cutting edge? :hmm:

Thanks

 

[Rebel]

Try cutting a hole in the leather where it bends around the back of the flint to let the flint set back closer to the screw.This will give you a bit more room.

 

[musketman]

Yes, it can be knapped back into shape, you can also knapp the back side of it so it'll fit deeper into the jaws...

I can see the chip that is missing, how much of the leading edge is still hitting the frizzen?

It will still be a functional flint even if it only strikes half the frizzen's width, all it takes is one spark, you mainly want the frizzen to be struck close to it's full width so it wears evenly across the surface...

 

[Pittsburghunter]

That flint looks pretty rough but also looks like it will throw sparks so just shoot it Self knapping is under rated.

 

[walley]

I can see the chip that is missing, how much of the leading edge is still hitting the frizzen?

you mainly want the frizzen to be struck close to it's full width so it wears evenly across the surface...

Musketman,
Looks to be about 9/16" contacting on a 11/16" frizzen surface.

I was also concerned about the frizzen wearing
unevenly. In fear that it might damage a new flint
if it would even produce an arc with a new one.

 

[Birddog6]

As Rebel said, cut a notch in the leather in the back where it hits against the jaw screw. Or a thinner piece of leather. May try turning the flint over.
But you may as well bite the bullet & order some more flints, you're gonna need more flints for your new found friend... :grin:

 

[Stony]

If you have a dremel tool, get the BLUE grinding wheel. Put it into your dremel and you can grind down the flint. I would highly recommend you do it outside as the dust is very unhealthy. Don't try to shape your striking edge but grind off the backside. You can even make a notch for the screw. You can also use it to take down "humps" and flatten the flint so it fits better in the cock jaws.

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you are looking to square the edge to the frizzen. lift the frizzen up so that the edge of the flint in the cock will strike the bottom edge of the frizzen, when the hammer is dropped. Then use your finger or thumb on the side of the frizzen to hold it in this position. Cock the hammer, and release it. When the flint has gained that much momentum, and hits that strong bottom edge, it will bread off the front of the flint's edge all across the frizzen, in one stroke. Fastest way to knapp a flint, short of not doing it at all. If your lock is timed properly, it will self knapp, other than getting this intial alignment done when you put a new flint in the cock.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

What you are encountering is a problem common to T/C flintlocks. The half-cock position is a bit close to the frizzen and the hammer jaws are quite small, making it very picky as to which flints will work. If the high spot of the flint is a bit too far forward the short jaws of the cock just will not hold that flint.
Track of the Wolf offers a 3/4" square flint especially for these locks and being about 1/8" shorter than the standard 3/4" flints should solve this problem.
My Pedersoli Frontier lock uses the standard 3/4" flints but the 3/4 "square" flint works much better in my T/C lock. :thumbsup:

 

[roundball]

If you get the new style hammer, you'll get 50-100 shots out of 3/4" (x7/8) black english flints.
The old style hammers are too short and are notorious for the flint problems you're describing...heres what the new style shape, and taller hammers look like:

 

[rods]

Can I order a new cock and frizzen for my old style T/C lock and have the same as the new style lock?
I see Cain's lists both as replacement parts.
Thanks
Rod

 

[walley]

I measured the remaining flint I have, and infact
it did measure 3/4" X 7/8". I'll doctor it up
before putting it to use. Thanks to you guys for
helping me out with this. I've got the current
flint in question back in what looks to be good
working order. I also placed an order for the
correct size flints for this rifle.

Question:
Will the taller T/C hammer fit the lock on the
Lyman's? It may be awhile before I can make the
change, but I am interested.
Really appreciate the help fellas :hatsoff:

 

[roundball]

I measured the remaining flint I have, and infact
it did measure 3/4" X 7/8". I'll doctor it up
before putting it to use. Thanks to you guys for
helping me out with this. I've got the current
flint in question back in what looks to be good
working order. I also placed an order for the
correct size flints for this rifle...speak to Jeanette in Cust. Svc.

Question:
Will the taller T/C hammer fit the lock on the
Lyman's? It may be awhile before I can make the
change, but I am interested.
Really appreciate the help fellas :hatsoff:

1) If by "I ordered the correct size flints" you mean the 5/8" flints that were originally listed for the TC locks decades ago, that's actually no longer the case...all that had to do with the old style lock design and dimensions...the Tom Fuller 3/4" x 7/8" black English flints work best in the new style TC locks, bar none;
2) Just call TC and have them send you a new hammer...they'll probably give it to you for free under their lifetime warranty.

 

[roundball]

Can I order a new cock and frizzen for my old style T/C lock and have the same as the new style lock?
I see Cain's lists both as replacement parts.
Thanks
Rod

From your photo, you've already got the new style frizzen on your lock...old style were case colored like the sideplate, new style are jet black...you just need the new improved hammer...then mount 3/4" BEFs bevel up like my photo

 

[walley]

1) If by "I ordered the correct size flints" you mean the 5/8" flints that were originally listed for the TC locks decades ago, that's actually no longer the case...all that had to do with the old style lock design and dimensions...the Tom Fuller 3/4" x 7/8" black English flints work best in the new style TC locks, bar none;

I ordered a few 3/4" X 3/4" from TOW whitch they
had listed for the Lyman rifles as well as T/C
and a few others. At the time I received the rifle
it came with a double edge white colored sawed
type flint. I asked the company to send me a
couple of the 3/4" BEF's along with the rifle.
They sent the 3/4" X 7/8ths :shake: (could have
been all they had on hand) but I didn't know
any better till I changed the flint.
I'll give T/C a buzz about the hammer. :hatsoff:

 

[TN.Frank]

You can also have a longer sear made up. That'll help move the hammer back further at half and full cock. Since you can't really move the notch in the tumbler but a sear switch is easy.

 

[Birddog6]

All he has to do is get the new hammer from T/C and it will most likely solve the problem. Modifying the lock is not the way to go when T/C will make them function peoperly at no charge under their Lifetime Warranty. :winking:

In fact, if you send them the entire lock & tell them you are having problems with the lock, they will repair it or send you a brand new lock that Will work. :thumbsup:

 

[CoyoteJoe]

My T/C lock is of the "new style" and it still requires the square flint to work properly and is still picky as to where the "hump" of the flint falls, if too far forward the short jaws just will not hold that flint.
I'm certainly not the only one to experience this problem as there have been posts on this forum about using a "mizzy wheel" to grind down the hump of those flints which won't hold. One forum member solved his problem by ordering a large quantity of flints, sorting them and reselling those which wouldn't work in his T/C. :grin:

 

[bart_anastasi]

If this is the old type TC lock call TC in New Hampshire and they will replace the old lock (hammer /frizen) with a new one NO Charge.

The original frizen has a case hardened surface finish and the new one will have a black frizen. The only thing you need to do is call TC and ask for the service department explain the probllem and they will tell you to ship them the lock with a explination of the problem. Gettin it fixed by the manufacturer free beats any thing else.

I beleive the postage is one way as well.

Bart