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Flint lock advice needed

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Hi guys first post.

I just started muzzle loading the past couple of years. I have a ( I word) muzzle loader and through it shoots very nice groups. I would like a gun in which our fore fathers tamed the west with. Though this would be my first traditinal black powder rifle ( use 777 in my other one) I would like t invest in a quality semi-custom flint lock first and not have to hassle with a crappy one I would sell in a few years. My idea is that I would like a left handed .54 caliber with around a 1:66" ROT. I like the looks of either a plains rifle or kentuky rifle though open to other designs. I don't want a rifle with fancy furniture and a patch box with engraved wood. I would like a no frills hight quality essential pieces that can shoot with the best if them ( as long as the shooter is good enough). Could you guys recommend me a couple builders that I could look at. Let's keep the cap under $1000
 
Regardless who builds it, be sure to get a good barrel and lock. A single trigger can be just fine if the builder knows how to hang it.

I have Rice, Colerain, Green Mountain and Getz barrels, and can also recommend Hoyt and Rayl. It doesn't matter how good the barrel is if you have a crappy lock, so I recommend Chambers' locks.
 
I've continued my search and found the Southern mountain flint lock kit. It would come with a Green mountain .54 with 1:70 ROT. Also how is the Siler lock it's made by chambers so that's a quality lock? I was thinking about buying that kit which seems like is comprised of quality parts. And contracting a builder ( I had mike lange in mind) to put it together and finish every thing. This seems like it would get me what I want and a quality flint lock as with sticking close to the cap price depending on a quote from a builder.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Cate...EFT-HAND-FLINT-PARTS-LIST/KIT-SML-15-40-FLINT

Here's the url of the kit I was looking at. I live about 20 minutes away from their store. So it's nice to have real black powder on hand easily.
 
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Yes, you'll be happy with a Chambers' Siler. You'll be 15/16" to get .54cal. It will be heavy with the 42" barrel, and much better balanced with a 36". I HAVE a 41"+ .50 Southern Mountain Rifle and its definitely muzzle heavy.

I took a look at the LH kits at TOTW, and would opt for the Issac Haines (early Lancaster) myself. Between the architecture of the stock and swamped barrel, it will have exquisite balance. I have one in .45.
 
I presume colorains are good barrels from what i've read about them. My resorvation about the 36" barrel is the 1:56 ROT. Will the ROT be accurate with pure lead round balls.
 
Oh yes. The secret is the rifling depth and cut, not the twist rate. For more detailed info, check my babble to Willamette under the "Lyman Trade Rifle Coming" in the 'Percussion Rifles" section below this.
 
Sam Renner said:
I presume colorains are good barrels from what i've read about them. My resorvation about the 36" barrel is the 1:56 ROT. Will the ROT be accurate with pure lead round balls.

Assuming you have a good grade barrel you can get great accuracy from almost any twist rate. The results will depend on the charge and ball/patch combo you use. Generally (nttin' in this ml game is 100% fer certain fer sure) the slower the twist the heavier the charge you must use for accuracy. The 1:48" is almost universal in the popular calibers. e.g. .45; .50; .54 The 1:56" is a good comprimise. If you go to 1:70 or 1:72 or even slower the charges, and amount of powder you will have to use could become a discouragement. My .54 Jaeger with a 1:72" twist requires charges north of 90 gr. for best grouping. Between powder usage and recoil I'm not shooting this beautiful rifle very often.
IMHO, stay with the 1:48" or 1:56" twist rates.
 
flinter 1955 said:
mike lange has a web site,,great work contact him you will be very happy
You only have four posts, yet three of them recommend Mike Lange. Are you working on commission? :rotf:
 
Make it 4 recommendations, Mike can build that rifle for you...1st class work.....Tom (not on commission)
 
flinter 1955 said:
nope just giving my opinion
And...at least your opinion was on target and you were providing a positive contribution to the OP's thread.
:wink:
 
It's NOT semi custom and it does have a utilitarian patch box on it but, this is what I got. Hope it helps. .54 cal, 1 66, Browned barrel and a remake of what Lewis n Clark were issued.
 
So what are the nessasary pieces that must be quality to ensure tight groups with a muzzle loader? Just the lock and the barrel? I gusse my question is what can I skimp on? I know I should probably save up and just get a quality one to ensure reliable functioning.
 
Sam Renner said:
So what are the nessasary pieces that must be quality to ensure tight groups with a muzzle loader? Just the lock and the barrel? I gusse my question is what can I skimp on? I know I should probably save up and just get a quality one to ensure reliable functioning.

Plain wood, furniture, and primitive sights....you need a good barrel, good lock and touch hole placed for reliable ignition, and a decent trigger pull....can be a properly placed single, or DST.

I'll recommend that you actually handle and shoulder some of the various pattern rifles so you can experience the differences in architecture. A 42" swamped .54 can balance like a dream and feel light while a 15/16" x 36" can feel like a plugged sewer pipe. A relatively straight stock, one with little drop from the sights to the heel, and wide butt will help minimize recoil. This is why I suggested the Isaac Haines kit from TOTW. Dunlap's Woodcrafts, Jim Chambers' Flintlocks, Knob Mountain Muzzleloading, and Petaconica River Long Rifle supply are some places where you can look.
 
Trying to figure out which parts are unimportant in building a muzzleloader is like figuring which of your fingers are unneeded.

The lock, barrel and trigger is priority one. Good hard, dry,straight grained maple will do for the stock. You don't need a patchbox, you can even do without a butt plate. You will need a brass trigger guard and some ramrod pipes.

After you have all that you need the magic of someone skilled enough to turn a boxful of parts into a precision machine designed to put small lead pellets into the same hole repeatedly.

Many Klatch
 
You don't say where you live, but if you are within a days drive of Nashville TN, go to Tip Curtis Frontier Shop & shoulder about 50 dif rifles there. Then you can FEEL what fits you correctly, it stead of guessing. Guessing in a catalog is like buying a car from a magazine. YOu could end up with a great car, but it could be a Tucker with no reverse. :doh:


Your 1000 limit really limits your good finds. Some rifle parts sets cost that. However you can acquire a parts set from Tip or from other venders for under the $ 1000, and for about 25% more you can get a rifle built In-The-White from Tip. It is assembled & shootable, all you do is finish the wood & metal.

So don't be in a hurry, or you end up with something you will be dissatisfied with. If there is a club, reinactment, or Rondy close, that may get you to where you can shoulder some rifles & find the desired fit & looks.

Keith Lisle

PS: Tip has more rifle patterns than anyone in the ML Parts business & he has LH versions of most of them. If you go with a Tenn rifle, get the Chambers Late Ketland for a flintlock. A Siler flintlock is not correct for a Tenn or southern mountain rifl, even thos several of them market them.
 

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