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Flint positioning.

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I am curious as to how you guys mount your flints. Do you have the flint contact /| this way. or \| this way. Angle up or angle down.? I have tried it both ways. Which do yo think works best. Best I can do it with a key board. Thanks!!
 
In both of my fusils, it's bevel up /|. This is one of those situations where it's up to the shooter to do the experiments. There's no wrong way. But there may be a more efficient way. The flint should be positioned in such a way that it begins the scrape about 1/3 of the way down the face of the frizzen. You want the maximum amount of sparks to land in the priming. I hope this helps.
 
In both of my fusils, it's bevel up /|. This is one of those situations where it's up to the shooter to do the experiments. There's no wrong way. But there may be a more efficient way. The flint should be positioned in such a way that it begins the scrape about 1/3 of the way down the face of the frizzen. You want the maximum amount of sparks to land in the priming. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the guidance
 
Bevel up in my Pedersoli Bess and bevel down in my Indian flint pistol. It will vary from gun to gun and lock to lock. As Cruzatte noted, put it however it gives you best contact with the frizzen and the most sparks.
 
I usually put mine bevel up. the other day after shooting and cleaning my 54 SMR I put in a new piece in my Bob roller lock bevel down. I latter shot it with the flint like this it goes off like lightning, but it always dose so I really can't say what is best. you just have to experiment,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
I usually put mine bevel up. the other day after shooting and cleaning my 54 SMR I put in a new piece in my Bob roller lock bevel down. I latter shot it with the flint like this it goes off like lightning, but it always dose so I really can't say what is best. you just have to experiment,,,,,,,,,,,,,
I have been running mostly bevel down. Will switch it and try. Thank you for the help.
 
Using the old edition of Siler locks w/ the old type tumbler geometry , it was bevel down. Just about all the locks w/ modern redesigned tumblers are bevel up. As far as flint position , never good to position the cutting edge forward so far it touches the frizzen in the half **** safety position. If the flint rides against the frizzen , at half **** , when the frizzen snapped shut after priming , boooooommmm..........oldwood
 
When folks say “bevel up,” I want to verify that they mean that the angled cut is on top of the flint as you look from the side of the lock, and so the flat part of the flint is at the bottom.

This bevel up/down language has always been a bit vague to me.
 
Using the old edition of Siler locks w/ the old type tumbler geometry , it was bevel down. Just about all the locks w/ modern redesigned tumblers are bevel up. As far as flint position , never good to position the cutting edge forward so far it touches the frizzen in the half **** safety position. If the flint rides against the frizzen , at half **** , when the frizzen snapped shut after priming , boooooommmm..........oldwood
Never thought of that! I tend to install my flints so that they just barely touch the frizzen when closed. Maybe I’ll back it off just a tad!!
 
Whichever way puts the flint directly in line with the touch hole when it falls. For me thats usually bevel up. But I have used flints bevel down as well.
 
It really does depend on the lock. My default method is bevel up. The flint should not touch the frizzen at half **** and should scrape down the frizzen face and never hit it head on. The usual recommendation is for the flint to hit at (plus or minus) 60 degrees or so.
 
The reason I'm am so persistent about teaching folks to learn how to pressure flake and knapp flint is so the shooter can adjust the flint shape and edge to best advantage in what ever lock type they have instead of always having to make the locks character work around what ever flint shape they get from the seller. Even getting a Green wheel for your shop grinder will make a huge difference in flint efficiency and longevity by getting rid of the hump and shaping the lead in angle to the edge. I use all three regularly.
I think kapping and pressure flaking is the most efficient and effective way to " final tune" a lock once the basic fundamentals of its mechanical operation are worked out.
Actually I believe knapping flint is an important element of flint shooting and should be taught rather then neglected as an integral and necessary part of the whole experience.
 
it all depends on how high up or down on the frizzen that it makes contact with?
 
if you get a green wheel get a GOOD filter mask with it average life span of pro knappers was short(40s) do to silica dust in the lungs . I knap outside or with a fan and only grind flint w this on face mask.jpga n95 will also work >>>-->
 
if you get a green wheel get a GOOD filter mask with it average life span of pro knappers was short(40s) do to silica dust in the lungs . I knap outside or with a fan and only grind flint w this onView attachment 52806a n95 will also work >>>-->
Yes, I always wear a dust mask at least when grinding inside but then grinding a flint on occasion is not the same as all day every day in a closed environment. I also am a glazier by trade and use a wet belt sander in the shop. These keep the dust down very well also. It is important to vacuum and sweep up the floor regularly as well.
Green wheels can be gotten from Granger or MSN tool supply.
 
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