Flinter main charge not igniting consistently

[PlainsmansCabin]

Hello!

I am having a tough time getting my Traditions Shenandoah .50 to fire consistently. I can get the priming powder to ignite but cant't get the main charge to ignite most of the time. I'm using FFg Pyrodex for the main charge and FFFg for priming powder.

Here are some things I'm questioning:
1) Could I be ramming the load too tightly?
I have pulled a couple of rounds and in order to get the powder out, I have to use my bullet puller to loosen the charge to get it to pour out of the barrel.

2) The priming powder is too much/too little or in the wrong location in the pan? No flash getting into the flash hole?

3) The orientation of the flashhole and pan is off? The flash hole sits about half covered by the pan. The pan seems to slope UP from the outside to the barrel. Should I grind this down exposing more of the flash hole?

Thanks for any/all assistance!!

 

[rabjr]

"FFg Pyrodex for the main charge"

Thats your problem, pyrodex is not ment for flintlocks, you need real black powder and your troubles should go away.

 

[Mulebrain]

Welcome to the forum!!

You need to use real black powder for your main charge.

Pyrodex will work in a caplock, but will not work well at all in a flinter!

 

[jernestc]

The heat from the flash tends to go up, so a low touch hole is unhelpful. It's supposed to be a flash effect, not a fuse. I would agree though, try real blackpowder first.

Mtn. Rifle

 

[boar]

Borrow or buy some Geox. Put in 5-10grs first then prodex. That way you can tell if it is the powder only problem, which I think it is. If I had the gun I would grind down the pan so hole is above the pan. Proably would help. Dilly

 

[Zonie]

I agree.
By using some real black powder down the barrel first and then putting the Pyrodex main charge above it, the real black powder will ignite from the pan flash and set off the Pyrodex.

The flash hole should not be at the bottom of the pan so file the pans bottom down a bit.
Also, when you prime the pan make sure the flash hole isn't covered before you close the frizzen.

Most factory guns have a very small vent hole. I recommend that you use a 1/16 inch drill bit to enlarge it. That will also speed up the ignition and make it much more reliable.

 

[Tom Compton]

What they said.
TC

 

[rdillion]

:thumbsupitto!

 

[rdillion]

Hey "40 Flint", Is that a cal. preferance? I have a 40 cal. flinter that I just made. I hav'nt killed anything with it as yet but, was wondering how it preforms on deer.

 

[PlainsmansCabin]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I will file the pan down, open up the flashhole and keep the priming powder away from the hole to begin with. If those things don't cure my problems, then I'll start the search for true BP around here. I'll let you know my range results on the weekend!

Thanks for all the great assistance, it's been greatly appreciated!

Plainsman

 

[FJTBONE]

If you do find real BP get FFFG and you will be able to use it for a main charge and a priming charge. It works in my Shenandoah with no other alterations or changes to the rifle. TBONE

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Mind this is only what I have done for such, not a recommendation you do so, other's mileage may vary.

I first drop down about ten grains of real black, followed by whatever remaining charge would be of the Pyrodex or such. When I tried it, gave good ignition and accuracy.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I will file the pan down, open up the flashhole and keep the priming powder away from the hole to begin with. If those things don't cure my problems, then I'll start the search for true BP around here. I'll let you know my range results on the weekend!

Thanks for all the great assistance, it's been greatly appreciated!

Plainsman

Try the holy black first, best to start out with the simplest and easiest first, no need to overly complicate things from the get go right out of the chute.

 

[Trench]

What everyone else said, but remember that the Pyrodex ignition point is 300 degrees hotter than real BP. That might be why that flash doesn't always ignite your charge. BP ignites at 470 degrees. It's just easier to catch fire.

 

[mykeal]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I will file the pan down, open up the flashhole and keep the priming powder away from the hole to begin with. If those things don't cure my problems, then I'll start the search for true BP around here. I'll let you know my range results on the weekend!

Thanks for all the great assistance, it's been greatly appreciated!

Plainsman

Look at it this way: the main problem is the use of the higher ignition point substitute powder. Reshaping the pan and touch hole are refinements, fine tuning improvements.

Real black powder such as Goex and Swiss is available on the internet via mail order. Graf and Sons and Powder, Inc. are two sources; there are several others. If you buy only small one to three pound lots the mail order powder will be quite expensive due to shipping and hazmat fees. Buying in five pound or greater lots will get the price closer to competitive with local stores, if you can find any.

Keep in mind that you have to ask for real black powder. It will not be displayed on the shelf due to insurance or fire regulations. If someone carries the substitutes, ask him for real black; he may have it behind the counter.

 

[Jblk]

I have been trying to conserve my black powder so I have been loading 10 grains of FFFG and 70 grains of Pyrodex FFG in my GP .54 rifle.I then prime with the FFFG, and she goes off every time.I am so pleased with the load that I intend to hunt with it.

 

[graybeard]

My personal experience is that real black powder is all that will work. In response to a question years ago, the Pyrodex people told me to stick to real black powder in a flintlock. The Black Mag3 folk advertise that it will work in a flintlock, but it is very slow and prone to misfires. Buy a can of Goex 3f and shoot away. graybeard

 

[Chilidog]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I will file the pan down, open up the flashhole and keep the priming powder away from the hole to begin with. If those things don't cure my problems, then I'll start the search for true BP around here. I'll let you know my range results on the weekend!




Thanks for all the great assistance, it's been greatly appreciated!

Plainsman

Like was said, before going to all that trouble, get some BP. Beg, borrow or steal but get some. Pyrodex is not meant for flint locks and won't work worth a hoot.

 

[mmahlock]

One other point, the Traditions Shenandoah has a "patent breach" (not quite like the original but close) make sure you clean and dry the channel from the false breach to the breach and clean and dry the breach well. You will have to remove the touch hole liner to do this after each time you finish shooting. A screw in nipple and tube can be used to flush the breach or a clamp on adapter will work as well.

:thumbsup:

 

[Zoar]

Put your file away and START with REAL Black Powder.

That is your problem.

Real Black is the ONLY way to go in flintlocks.