Flintlock accuracy and need help finding load

[HighUintas]

one more thing folks do that reinforces the flinch, is filling the pan to full with prime. using 3f swiss, a 1/16th vent hole, many times if i see as many as 10 granules of powder trickled out into the pan through the vent, I can forego any additional priming.
when folks fill the pan they are creating an eruption that is hard to ignore.

Also a great suggestion... I haven't thought about priming minimally... It is that pan explosion that makes me want to flinch

 

[deerstalkert]

Also a great suggestion... I haven't thought about priming minimally... It is that pan explosion that makes me want to flinch

back when i started out i would load the pan to the brim. I think i still have some "freckles" from powder splashing my face, ruining my good looks!
now i see how little i can use and I can't remember the last time i even noticed the pan flash. plus you get to save money.

 

[Kansas Kid]

I assume you are using eye and hearing protection, you may also try a recoil shield like a PAST that goes on your shoulder. That barrel sounds suspicious and may very well be the reason or at least part of it. You ought to expect around 5” rounded groups from a bench at 100.

 

[HighUintas]

back when i started out i would load the pan to the brim. I think i still have some "freckles" from powder splashing my face, ruining my good looks!
now i see how little i can use and I can't remember the last time i even noticed the pan flash. plus you get to save money.

That's where I'm at how embarrassing. I just read that "how do you prime" thread and was surprised to see so many people say they use the "doohickey" that drops 3gr at a time. I use one of those and plunge it until the pan is full.

Learned something new! I'm excited to save some 4f and reduce the fouling buildup on my lock.... And hopefully not notice that flash anymore

I assume you are using eye and hearing protection, you may also try a recoil shield like a PAST that goes on your shoulder. That barrel sounds suspicious and may very well be the reason or at least part of it. You ought to expect around 5” rounded groups from a bench at 100.

Absolutely! Without vision and hearing I would go crazy. I had thought about the recoil and wore some serious layers last time out. The 120gr doesn't feel bad at all with layers. It makes it feel about like a 6.5cm cartridge. The 90 feels about like a 243.

I keep meaning to put some electrical tape on my glasses to block out the lock from my vision when aiming so that I can't see it.

 

[Terrier]

That denim patch seems mighty thick if you’re shooting a ball only .010 less than the barrel. You might try some of the Joann drill cloth that mics to .018.
It’s referred to as pocket drill or Item # 683532, or the OxYoke .018 ticking patches.

A load doesn’t necessarily have to be super tight to be accurate.

 

[HighUintas]

That denim patch seems mighty thick if you’re shooting a ball only .010 less than the barrel. You might try some of the Joann drill cloth that mics to .018.
It’s referred to as pocket drill or Item # 683532, or the OxYoke .018 ticking patches.

A load doesn’t necessarily have to be super tight to be accurate.

I've also got some joanns "bull denim" that measures 0.019ish with my calipers compressed. They're a bit easier to get started than the 12oz/0.023 denim. Both of them go down super smooth after the first 4-6 inches.

I don't know if I've noticed an accuracy difference between them... Probably not.

Hopefully I can get out again this week. The list to try:

1- smallest pan charge possible
2- cover glasses with e-tape to block lock from vision
3- use rest a couple inches from muzzle
4- try prone
5- single charge ... Maybe 80 or 90 gr. Not sure which
6- try both patches, bull denim and 12oz denim... Also have some 0.023 canvas... I might try that too.

If it all fails, I'll buy some 0.562 or 0.565 balls and use a thicker patch. If that fails, I'll buy a cap gun

 

[Kansas Kid]

Don’t know what lube you’re using but try spit or windshield washer fluid. Not greasy slick stuff.

 

[Banjoman]

Don’t be afraid to try a thin patch.

 

[Buff1958]

My .58 likes.....
.575 ball
.015 patch
70 grains of FF for targets
120 grains of FF for hunting
With the 120 I add a ox-yoke 1/8" thick pre lubed wad between powder and patch

 

[Howard Pippin]

I'll have to go to another range next time and gather patches . The range I was at I'm not able to cross the firing line.

This is quite an interesting discussion, i discovered that with my own 50 caliber, that if I would cut back the powder charge to about 55 grains, increase the ball size from .490 to.495, go with a .010 patch, it loaded with only half the trouble and accuracy was much better than what you are doing, and better than I had been doing before. Recoil was nonexistent then and I think that might have helped. Trying different lubes also made a big difference. I highly suggest that as a starter. My friend went from a 5in group using what ever he had bought from a black-powder store called patch lube to a 2 in group using some old patches of mine coated with bore butter that only worked so-so for me. Don't let any so-called expert tell you what the best lube is.
Squint

 

[Mike in FL]

Years ago I bought a rifle rest. Both ends of the rifle are supported. It has adjustments to fine tune the sight picture. The user can dial it in for perfect alignment on the bullseye. All that's left to do is pull the trigger but I always hold the rifle anyway and look across the sights to make sure nothing has moved. I don't think flinching would cause the gun to move unless it was violent. It is just away to be assured I'm holding on target.

 

[Mike in FL]

When zeroing, there are 4 main variables, any one of which can open groups. Ball size, patch thickness, powder charge, powder granulation. There are lesser variables like brand of powder, loading consistency, patch material, etc. but if you get those 4 in the right combination, you can fret about other factors later. Change just one variable at a time to show progress toward what is best. If you change more than one thing you won't know which one changed things.

 

[hanshi]

For one thing a 3 inch five shot group at 50 yards isn't a bad group. It means that each shot is only 1-1/2" from your aiming point. If you are a hunter, such shooting will keep your freezer full of venison.

 

[HighUintas]

For one thing a 3 inch five shot group at 50 yards isn't a bad group. It means that each shot is only 1-1/2" from your aiming point. If you are a hunter, such shooting will keep your freezer full of venison.

I agree. I'd like to be able to do it consistently

 

[Mgbruch]

Only change one variable at a time when working up a load. Charge, patch, powder. If you change more than one, you won't know which variable had the effect. Might as well throw rocks with your eyes closed. But if you change only one, then you can see that effect it has.

 

[Dave Marsh]

I think I would call Colerain and tell them you issues. See if you can't ship expedited and let them have a look and either fix, replace or tell you it is you or your load. Just my opinion as to what I would do.

 

[HighUintas]

I think I would call Colerain and tell them you issues. See if you can't ship expedited and let them have a look and either fix, replace or tell you it is you or your load. Just my opinion as to what I would do.

I may do that later this winter if I can't make any progress. I am hopeful, though.

 

[longcruise]

This colerain is either 66" or 70" twist

Their standard twist for 58 is 1:66 if I recall correctly. Twist rate should be fine for ball.

I'd like to see a picture of your patches.

 

[HighUintas]

Their standard twist for 58 is 1:66 if I recall correctly. Twist rate should be fine for ball.

I'd like to see a picture of your patches.

I will collect some this Friday

 

[Sam squanch]

Weigh the round balls you are using, look for light ones and throw them in the scrap lead can. Also use a buffer between the powder charge and patched round ball, wool wad, cream of wheat, folded up patch.