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Flintlock accuracy

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Ok fella's, how do you do it? My brother-in-law came over last night with his Pedersoli Pennsylvania flintlock rifle and we were doing some chootin'. I am used to caplocks and I had a hard time staying on target with the tenth or so second delay between the flash and the bang. I would like to get a good southern mtn. rifle in 40cal for squirrels, but I think I would have a hard time making head shots. I'm sure the gun is capable of it, but I don't know if I am. :(
 
Sounds like you may need to tune up the rifle/load. I am not the best shot out there but can hit equally as well with my caplocks s my open site center or rim fire rifles/pistols.

You should experience a delay IMHO so I am betting you need to change your ruetine in loading, cleaning and find a load (powder/patch (thickness and lube) that will get you to .22 status.

Others here are more knowlagable and can also offer some ideas.

Finally get the DUTCH system, today.
 
Could be flinch that's trowing you off.
When I stated with my flintlock it took me quite a bit of shooting to overcome it.
cut a cloths pin half to the length of your flint and do some dry fire practice with it. That helped me out a bit, I also had a buddy load (or not load) my rifle at the range so i didnt know if it was going to go off or not.
seeing myself flinch/pull the gun without the presence of a flash or recoil helped me to realize what i was doing.
 
I'll tell you of a bad habit of mine that can and does effect accuracy; dumping too much powder into the priming pan. It's surprising how little one needs.
 
Cruzatte said:
I'll tell you of a bad habit of mine that can and does effect accuracy; dumping too much powder into the priming pan. It's surprising how little one needs.

So ... huh
So I shouldn't be filling the pan completely?

Wonder if that is the source of my occasional FTF with flintlocks? I fill that pan up good. Then when it doesn't go off I am left mystified. It just had a huge flash of fire from the pan...where is my boom?
 
I have a T/C .45 flinter. I put in about 1/3 pan of Schuetzen (or Goex) 3F. Works great.

Paul
aka BartSr
 
Cynthialee said:
Cruzatte said:
I'll tell you of a bad habit of mine that can and does effect accuracy; dumping too much powder into the priming pan. It's surprising how little one needs.

So ... huh
So I shouldn't be filling the pan completely?

Wonder if that is the source of my occasional FTF with flintlocks? I fill that pan up good. Then when it doesn't go off I am left mystified. It just had a huge flash of fire from the pan...where is my boom?

No, you don't need to have the pan full. I have mine maybe half full. There have been a couple of times where I had too little and the main charge didn't ignite, re-prime with more power, boom.

However if the pan is full and the main charge doesn't go off then you most likely need to pick the touch hole.
 
I put about 1/3 pan in my flinters. I also tap the gun so it keeps powder away from the hole. I wipe the pan and frizzen roof between shots.

I also make sure there's a few flecks of 3f powder outside the pan in the valley where the flint rests into.

Focus on that front sight. Make it your only focus. ..
 
I get the fastest and most reliable ignition with the priming powder to just below the touch hole, which in my flinters is about 1/3 of the pan with 4F. (3F powder works fine but I have plenty of the finer stuff and save the 3F for main charges.) Wipe the pan and frizzen, pick the touch hole, prime, close the frizzen and tap the side of the rifle to settle the powder. My flinters' ignition is nearly as fast as the caplocks.

For some reason I never had a problem with flinching. Maybe because I need strong glasses to see so wasn't worried about my eyes. (That doesn't make me a great shot, just that I can't use flinching as an excuse.) :grin: Seriously, my routine in priming and training for a long hold made more improvement than anything else.
 
Being able to shoot a flintlock accurately just takes practice....concentrate on the aim point and forget the rest.

My .45 flint LR has head hit 100s of squirrels and is quite immune to varying amounts of powder and it's location in the pan. In the heat of battle, my primer throws varying amounts of 4f and sometimes I wipe the excess off w/ my finger and at other times there's what I think might be insufficient 4f, but it always goes bang.

Don't think I'd want a "finicky" flintlock ....just like to squirrel hunt instead of monkeying around w/ a lousy flintlock.....Fred
 
With a fast flint lock the ball is going to take nearly .100 seconds to exit the bore. With a fast cap gun, about 1/3 that time.

If your hits on paper are consistently at 4:00 that's indicative of a flinch.

What you should do is start calling your shots. Where were your sights aimed when you pulled the trigger, and then take note of where the rounds land. As important as that is, also take note of the direction your wobble was going when you touched off. The two together will give you the speed of your wobble, and where you need to be with your sights (and wobble direction) when you touch off so that you can accurately predict where the rounds will land, and adjust accordingly.
 
To find out if it is you or the gun, have an experienced flintlock shooter shoot your gun from a solid bench rest. If he is getting a good group, the problem is you. :shocked2: If he is getting a poor group from the bench rest, then it is time to work on a load that your gun likes. http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/ To lessen the lock time, do not over fill your pan and do not cover the touch hole with powder. Three to five grains (that's grains by weight not particles) of powder is all you need. With the touch hole not covered by the powder, the fire from the pan can easily get to the main charge and the lock time is reduced. Also keep the touch hole clean by picking it before every shot. Touch hole location and size is important too. A properly located hole is level with the top of the pan and centered over the pan. Too small of a hole and the flame cannot get to the main charge easily lock time is too long. Too large and breach pressure becomes erratic which results in loss of accuracy. So, if you determine that the problem lies with your gun you need to: 1. check the size of your touch hole, 2. keep it clean and 3. do not over fill your pan and do not cover the touch hole with powder and 4. Work on getting the best load that your gun likes by using Dutch's System. If it is you and not the gun, you need to work on ridding yourself of the flinch. Getting rid of the "Flintlock flinch" is quite doable, it just requires a bit of shooting and becoming used to the flash in the pan. I don't even see the flash any more.
 
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when i first started out i used a wooden flint in the jaws of the lock an dry shot my EMPTY gun each night for weeks an maybe even months till i had no flinch an the sights were on target after the lock made its cylce. It helped me an will probably help you
 
The advice to dry fire is sound. Also, load with the touchole pick in. Remove after loading and prime. Prime with Swiss Null B. You want a thin layer across the entire pan, so that the first spark in the pan hits powder.
 
A lot of that delay with a flintlock can be caused by piling the flash powder up against the touch hole..
We want the flash of the burning flash powder to fly down the clear ignition channel and immediaimmediately touch off the main charge.

When properly set up the pan flash and the bang seem to happen at the same time. Thedelay is almost imperceptibleBy piling the flash powder up against a touch hole filled with fine grain powder we change the the clear passage of the pan flash into a wick that has to burn through all that before anything gets to the main charge.

They are both quick but keeping that passage clear is almost instantaneous.

Excuse typos.

Blind Willy Schoultz
 
As mentioned, tuning the lock.

IF you can hear the pan make noise, and then the rifle goes BOOM, you're ignition is too slow. In the old TV series where Daniel Boone (Fess Parker) shoots and you get a Clack-BOOM sequence..., the rifle needs work, or the sound effect was harvested from a bad gun.

Next, what position are you in when shooting? I don't shoot squirrels or any small game very often in (in fact I try to avoid) the standing-unsupported (aka "offhand") firing position. It's the toughest to hold. I either support my forward hand on a tree and then lay the rifle across the wrist of that hand, or I take a kneeling position or something "tight" as such.

Flinch..., you pull the trigger too hard standing-unsupported, or you're pulling down a bit with the forward hand expecting recoil. Often this is cured shooting from a bench a lot, and slowly slowly squeezing the trigger so that it surprises you when the rifle goes off. You need to know when the rifle is snug against your shoulder but not so tight as you are straining against the stock. If the rifle isn't properly shouldered, it bangs backwards into you, that's unpleasant, so the next shot you anticipate..and FLINCH.

You can diagnose flinch sometimes by ensuring you have an empty rifle, and then putting a hardwood chip in where the flint goes. Stand-unsupported, aim at a target, **** the rifle, and have a buddy rest a quarter on the top flat of the barrel at the muzzle behind the front sight. Squeeze off the "shot" and see if you move so much as to toss the quarter off where it's resting. You can use the middle of the barrel in a well swamped rifle, to get a level position.

Also regarding Flinch..., again the lock. The trigger pull should be crisp, not creep, but not too heavy that it makes you want to yank on the trigger instead of squeezing because your fighting the "break" of too heavy a trigger pull. A lot of reenactors have a nasty trigger flinch because they are shooting blanks from a Bess, and only blanks ever, so the heavy trigger break is a little bit more safety for them. A Pedersoli Charleville can be even harder on the trigger pull. They're not trying to hit anything, so they never realize they've gotten this habit until the day they try to shoot a ball at a target.

Spectating..., this is an "eye flinch". You're not used to seeing the movement of the lock out of the corning of your strong eye, so when you shoot, your eye comes of the front sight focus point, and looks and the dang **** where it came to rest. Of course that means you not looking at your sight and can't follow through. A lot of bench practice so you get used to the motion and can ignore it..., you have to concentrate on focusing on that front sight post to train yourself. Then move to a kneeling or seated on the ground position and work on it. I mentioned reenactors..., guys and gals that fire in line formations often pick this up with the trigger yank. They want to see if their musket is sparking well, and since again, they aren't really shooting anything other than powder, they can let their eye look at the **** striking the hammer (frizzen)


LD
 
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