Flintlock Disassembley Help

[vulture]

I have also had success by putting moderate torque on the screwdriver and then tap the handle above your hand. You don't want to smack it hard or you can damage the screw head, it is the same principle as tapping the screw and then using the driver only this way you are applying moderate torque on the screw at the same time you are giving it a light tap. It is the same principle as using an impact driver, only with a lot more care and tenderness. With a proper fitting driver and common sense approach I have managed to loosen screws without damage to the screw head, but it does take time and patience.

 

[kurts]

your side plate is countersunk, you can't hurt it; drill the head off of the lock screw and pull it through then you can work on it. take some good pics and send them to the builder and see what he says.

 

[Len Graves]

I agree with cub. If you do damage the screw head by trying to turn it out drill out the head and pull the screw through, then.
Vice grips will do the trick. If heat didn't do it ( it should on lock tight) I would like to know how you finally do get it out and many find out what that blue stuff is.

 

[frogwalking]

I too agree with Cub. Try the hammer trick first. If no luck, drill the center of the head, then using a pin punch, pop the shaft of the screw off the head. Remove the lock and disassemble. (Use a mainspring vice) once all parts are off the plate you have a number of options. Soaking in solvent/penetrating oil, heat and vice grips. I don't know about Loctite, but normal superglue is quite heat resistant. You can get a new lock screw from TVM.

 

[54ball]

If it does not come loose by "reasonable" means...(frog you build guns, you know what I mean)...He needs to take it to a gunsmith who has the jigs and the tools. He'll spend what, 50 bucks at most?
If this was a 75.00 Jukar, Yeah I could see playing a little but we are talking about a 1500 dollar rifle.

What else can you do?

Take it to a gunsmith.

 

[Don Steele]

I've been following this thread with interest...HOPING to see that you got the screw out, cleaned up the threads on both of them, and are enjoying your new rifle. Since I haven't seen that you have it resolved...I'll add a coupla thoughts to the conversation.
First...I gotta tell you that the blue stuff on the screw you were able to remove certainly looks like Blue Loc-tite. I've used a good bit of the stuff on my Harley-Davidson over the years and upon removal...that's exactly what those fasteners look like.
From your first post on this topic..I'm not sure that I understand the sentence: "...after waiting nearly a year".
Is that the wait for the rifle to arrive...or did you receive it nearly a year ago, and are just now shooting it..???
My point in asking is that if you JUST received it, I'd simply pack it up and send it back to TVM to affect whatever corrections are necessary. On the other hand...if you received it nearly a year ago, and are just now getting it out to shoot...you own the problem, and it's a lot easier to understand their hesitation to take responsibility for this kind of issue on a rifle that left their shop that long ago.
To the problem:
There's a lot of ways to try and remove stuck fasteners...several have already been suggested.
The BEST one however..if you're not comfortable ( read: experienced) with that sort of thing is to take it to a REAL Gunsmith.
Good Luck, get this mess squared away...and get back out enjoying the rifle..!!

 

[Archer 756]

:cursing: Vise Grips , hope none of you work on any of my guns

 

[EC121]

Blue Loctite is easily removable. It isn't meant to be permanent. It doesn't require heat to relase like some of their products. I use it all the time on small 3mm and 4mm model airplane screws, and they release quite easily. A screwdriver with a good fitting blade should remove the blue version. Or drill it out and order another one. Because heat softens the blue Loctite, I use silicone sealer to lock the muffler threads on my engines. It also releases easily when needed.

 

[fischereco2]

I really appreciate all of the advice. Unfortunately after posting this I came down with the full blown flu and I literally have not left bed since Monday. The screw has been left with some penetrating oil on it, I'll see if I can muster the strength to mess around with it today.

To answer someone's question, the gun has been in my possession for like 10 months, so yes I waited nearly a year to shoot it. Before I got into BP guns I collected surplus firearms, so I figured if those guns can go decades without being touched and still come apart easily than a new gun shouldn't be a problem. I guess I was wrong. I agree that I own the problem ultimately.

I'm a little confused about drilling out the screw. If I drill through the head doesn't that still leave material stuck in the threads? If I use a bit large enough to clear all the material won't I damage the threads?

 

[Grenadier1758]

You are just drilling out the body diameter of the bolt through the side plate. This will let you remove the lock with the bolt still in place so you can remove all the lock internals and get a good grip on the bolt to remove it from the lock. You are not drilling into the lock plate.

 

[fischereco2]

Doh! That makes perfect sense.

 

[54ball]

Some honest questions,
How many of you have actually drilled out a lock bolt on a fully assembled rifle? Secondly, Would you really do this to your "custom" longrifle?

IMHO trying to drill this out,especially with a hand held drill has a very real potential for disaster. One slip...Uhh Ohh!
As said if reasonable means do not loosen it, send it to a gunsmith or back to TVM.

 

[kurts]

I would have no problem, put it in the Bridgeport and drill away, but anyone with some common sense should be able to do it, not hard just have think about what has to be done and go slow.

 

[Black Jack]

Some honest questions,
How many of you have actually drilled out a lock bolt on a fully assembled rifle? Secondly, Would you really do this to your "custom" longrifle?

IMHO trying to drill this out,especially with a hand held drill has a very real potential for disaster. One slip...Uhh Ohh!
As said if reasonable means do not loosen it, send it to a gunsmith or back to TVM.

What 54ball said makes a lot of sense. Take it to a gunsmith before breaking out your drill. If you can get the screw out by some means without risk of damaging the lock further, OK, but why take the risk of doing expensive damage with some kitchen table gunsmithing?

 

[hoochiepapa]

I'm still sayin' it's blue permatex.

 

[garra]

I agree it sure looks blue loc-tite to me too. I went to the loc-tite site and looked up the MSDS sheet for blue thread lock. They advise using methylene chloride to loosen and clean up items. They also said heat will allow easier removal of cured items, but the temp is about 400 degrees. I am not sure if using a soldering iron tip against the screw will do it.

 

[garra]

I Goggled methylene chloride , it is available via Amazon in small quantities for about $20.00 with shipping.

 

[Stubert]

Put the soldering iron on the screw and give it time to get hot. Then add a drop or 2 of penetrating oil, it will suck into the threads. patience is required.

 

[frogwalking]

If it was a regular TVM custom rifle? Yes I would.

 

[Tom Compton]

Send the damned lock to TVM and ask them to repair it and provide a diagnosis of cause. If they screw it up they'll replace the lock. He'll they may even decide it's their fault.

Be sure to get an RMA return materials authorization before shipping.