Flintlock pan powder

[CharlesZ]

Hey again,

The information here is priceless. So I'm shopping around online for a flintlock and it's becoming clear that the rifles are out there but 4Fg powder is nowhere to be found. As a tyro to flintlock I'm being told 3F powder will work fine as the priming charge. The main charge just won't ignite as quickly. Is this true? I'm in NY and I don't know if real blackpowder can be shipped to me here. Anyone know?
Again thanks to all.
Charles

 

[hanshi]

While 4f is probably best many use 3f and prime from the horn so as to carry only one powder. I doubt you'll be able to tell any difference.

 

[Lostrifle]

You can take a long trip for the day, go through NJ, cross the PA border, and go to Dixon's gunshop. Get all the powder you want there. I don't know if powder can be shipped to Long Island(probably has the same stupid laws as NYC)either, and I'm certain you won't be able to buy it in stores in either NYC or NJ.
Become a smuggler, like the rest of us!

 

[musketman]

There are many of us hereabouts that use a one horn system on our flintlocks, we charge and prime with the same powder.

Yes you can prime with 3F and even 2F powder, and these larger granules have a added bonus, they draw less moisture from the surrounding atmosphere than the finer priming powder.

 

[Samuel]

I also prime with and use 3f for main charge and works fine

Samuel

 

[ebiggs1]

Before I do anything stupid, is it possible to "grind" down 3f or 2f and approximate 4f?
Would there be any advantage?

 

[Powerkicker]

I grind down fff into ffff sometimes. Works fine.

 

[SmokepoleSam]

Hello Charles, I'm also on Long Island but I get my powder upstate when I go to shoots. Another L.I. shooter I know does get his powder shipped to him. If you want to talk privately email me. My email is in my profile. Domenick

 

What ever you are using for your load use to prime your pan.

 

[sundog]

I will recomend a trip to Dixon's in Kempton PA. Dixon's is a wonderland for traditional Black Powder shooters. You will find everything you need there including powder.
Also to be found at Dixon's is info on BP shoots and woods walks. I live in PA and have friends from Long Island who come out for shoots so yuou may think about doing that too.

 

[musketman]

Before I do anything stupid, is it possible to "grind" down 3f or 2f and approximate 4f?
Would there be any advantage?

Yes it is possible, but some precautions should be taken.

• 
  
  1. Use a non sparking material to grind with (glass, porcelain, etc.)
  2. Work with small amounts at a time, better to burn a few fingers than to blow off a hand should it decide to ignite.

The advantage of doing this would be that you will have your finer priming powder and whenever you need more, just grind some yourself.

However, the disadvantage would be that the powder will loose it's graphite coating in the grinding process and will cake up more so with moisture from the air.

 

[oldarmy]

4ffff will work better for you..
One pound will "LAST A LONG TIME"
IMHO.. It's worth the extra hassle..
You will get quicker, more reliable ignition.
Better flint wear,, why,, because it takes less spark to ignite the powder.
They didn't make it for "nuttin"???
3fff or 2ff will work in a pinch, but you are not on the frontier..
Well.. I guess with the current state of black powder availability.. we are :cursing:
I have to buy mine in bulk..25lb lots.. always buy a pound of 4ffff goex or NULLB swiss with every lot. Even though I have plenty.

 

[Tom Compton]

You can prime with 3F to only carry one powder. Heck, even FF will prime.

Anyway, be sure not to get offended at the funny look when you dry load and have to ask someone for some 4F to trickle thru the touch hole.

I carry 4F even when totin a persuction musket or shotgun.
TC

 

[CharlesZ]

Hi Dom,

I couldn't find your e-mail in your profile but how ya' doin'?
If you know of any shops that sell flintlocks and powder it would be nice to know.
Do you remember, about 20 yrs ago (maybe longer) there used to be a club, L.I. Muzzleloaders. I'd see them down at Calverton all the time. Whatever happened? We can't be such a tiny group that there are no organizations.
My e-mail is [email protected]. Give me a holler.

Take care,
Charles

 

[CharlesZ]

Hey Sundog,
I checked out Dixon's website, incredible! Thanks for the info. I will be taking a trip to Dixon's sooner than later.
thanks again.
Charles

 

[Mulebrain]

That ffff will soak up moisture quick! I found, that overall fff works as the best prime in my flinters.

 

[miked35]

Dixon's is great. Staff very helpful and if it is muzzleloader related, they carry it. Anything from flints and powder to horns and clothing. And guns, lots of 'em.

Mike

 

[PeterV]

Some years ago, I was loading a .62 cal. smoothbore flintlock with 2Fg black powder and noticed as I seated the PBR that, what appeared to be, a lot of smoke was coming out of my vent hole. Of course I had cleaned between shots, so I knew it wasn't burnt powder smoke, but the shots over my chronograph were all over the place from a velocity standpoint. The next time I began loading, I closed the frizzen, loaded powder and ball, and found a full pan of priming-like powder when I opened the frizzen to vent pick the piece. This was a batch of GOEX powder I had purchased years before, so I ordered a powder sifter, and sifted enough "fines" to partially fill an empty powder can from several cans of the same stuff. The newer stuff from GOEX does not have the fines I found in the older stuff, and the quality is very good as well. That is my backup priming powder when I cannot get 4Fg powder. I also know that you can grind the grains of courser powder using a wooden spoon/wooden bowl or a stone mortar and pestel to produce fine grains for priming. Just keep sparks from metal objects away from the process, and grind powder in very small batches as a safety precaution.

As far as buying black powder in NY, all you have to do is call Coonies (800) 713-6321 or Powder, Inc. (877) 833-1799 or any of the other suppliers and ask if there is a problem. They know the limitations for all of the states. I take orders from other shooters in my club and when I have an order for 25 pounds, I place it. It arrives via UPS within a few days and I sign for it, then distribute to those that ordered it. Some of the suppliers can ship as little as 10 pounds, but the freight and hazmat fees will be the same as for 25 pounds, I believe. The price per pound will rise for an order of fewer than 25 pounds. But the price will still be less than the substitute powders sold in the sporting goods stores. Good luck!

 

[oldarmy]

That ffff will soak up moisture quick! I found, that overall fff works as the best prime in my flinters.

I am shooting my flintlock up here in the far north,, Not as humid as Florida,but in the poring rain.. it's a humid as is gets. :v
Some young smart-butt tells me "good luck, you will have a pan full of mud"??? He has never shot a flintlock in his life.. just reads the NRA MAGS :yakyak:
After 20 shots or so.. I don't see any mud... some residue, that is easily removed with a pick.
It's actually easier to shoot black powder in humid conditions.. the fouling is softer.
4ffff is still a better prime given a choice. JM2CENTS

 

[aap2]

I use 4f because I always order a few cans when I buy a case of powder, but if I didn't have it I would prime with the 3f that I use for the main charge. Some of the fastest and most refined flintlocks ever made were the English Duellers; almost always cased with all loading accessories..but I have never seen an original cased english flintlock with a priming flask so I guess that they didn't think that a finer grain priming powder was required. Just an observation.