Flintlock Pistol Kits

[Firedanse]

Hi again, after a 3 month back order, I finally got my kit. The stock comes with parts already installed. Instructions are vague about sanding. It talks about filing from metal to wood. I think I need experienced suggestions. Don't want to over sand. Thanks for input. Guess it won't be a Christmas gift, maybe for Valentines Day. Firedanse

 

Firedanse , when you say the stock came with the parts installed , do you mean the pistol came assembled but unfinished ? Also are the metal parts finished ?

 

[Firedanse]

Let's see if I can accurately describe it. Stock is carved but roughly. Trigger,ramrod and barrel are in place. Flintlock assembly is not. Not sure about the finish. Seems like the brass is roughly done and needs something more. Barrel is hard to tell, due to inexperience of me. The instructions say that all parts are already mounted but that is not the case. In reading the directions, it would appear that there is more to be done to the barrel. A later chat topic I think. Right now I'm interested in knowing more about the sanding so I don't screw it up. Thanks.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

"It talks about filing from metal to wood."


That alone raised my attention level.

I am always reluctant to give specific advice, but. It has been my experience never file from metal to wood. It almost guarantees a dip in the wood just off the metal surface, I always file from wood to metal when bringing to final shape.

Also, do not use fingers for sanding, it will produce a ripple effect due to differences in hard and soft wood fibers. (figured maple is one of the worse) Use a sanding block for flats and sand paper around a wooden dowel for the curved and sloped lock panel moldings and such. (keep those panel edges sharp) I do the curved slopes of panels first, and save the final flat sanding for last.

Historical style of pistol not mentioned. If you know the style and can find pictures on the net, it would help greatly to know what you wish to achieve before you start.

Just keep in mind one is always limited when using a preshaped kit, you are mostly stuck with what you have.

Don't know if these will help, but links are to pics of a pistol I slapped together from a kit TOW had on special a year or so ago.

http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/files/P_1.JPG

http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/files/P_2.JPG

http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/files/P1010007.JPG

 

Is it anything like the one I just got that I have pictures of in this thread?

Mine too talks about filing the wood from the metal to the wood... says if you do it the other way you'll get splinters or rough wood at the joint or something like that. In those pics, I have done zero filing... it's all been done with 100 grit sandpaper and an artgum eraser for a sanding block. Cut the sandpaper into 2"x2" squares and wrap it around the eraser, and sand with the grain. I used the end of a ball-point pen for something round to sand the mortices to get the lock and sideplate in. I still have work to do, but it's a start.

 

When I build a kit , I fully assemble the gun first , before I do any finishing on the wood or metal . Once you have the pistol fully assembled in working condition , then you can start finishing the stock . The barrel tang area is probably where you will have to remove the most wood . Carefully scribe lines where the metal is lower than the wood , then disassemble the pistol . If I need to remove alot of wood , I use a rasp until I'm about 1/32" above the scribed line , then I switch to 100 grit sandpaper (I use aluminum oxide paper). You can then put unfinished metal parts into the stock and sand the wood flush . Any finished metal parts (I would guess your lock is finished) need to be done by trial and error ie: sand a little then set it in or on the stock and see if you need to sand some more , keep the wood a little high and don't make these flush until you are using your finest grit sandpaper . As I sand the stock with progressively finer grits I do the same to the unfinished metal parts (aluminum oxide paper works on metal too) . I use two small sanding blocks , one is a 1x2 , 2 5/8 " long , the other is round , 1" diameter , 2 5/8" long . I hope I made this understandable . That's how I do it , anyway . :results: I suggest you go to the Builders Bench section of this forum for technical help , check it out , there is much you can learn . Take your time , don't rush , look at the pistol and do the work in your mind before you actulaly work on the gun . Remember , it's easier to take more wood off than it is to put wood back on . Good luck with your project , I hope I was some help . :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

StaticXD00d: If firedanse got the pistol I think she did, it is almost exactly the same as yours. (The caliber may be different).
Now that your on your way, jump in with as many comments as you can.

Actually, as this post deals with building, the Builders Bench would be a good place to discuss what is needed and I would move the post if I could.
Claude doesn't trust me with too many moderators jobs so I can't move this.

firedanse, you are going to do great! Just keep asking your questions.

For those just coming aboard on this post, firedanse bought a Pedersoli pistol kit.

 

Sounds good to me... she's more than welcome to use my thread too, we can change the title to "Pedersoli Pistol Kits" and rock and roll on them! :redthumb:

I don't have any good files yet, so I've just been sticking to sandpaper so far. It takes a little longer and a little more elbow grease, but 100-grit aluminum oxide paper will remove wood quickly enough for the most part.

I have the lock and sideplate inletted, and am just about done shaping the stock, then I'll get it sanded down to about 400-grit (I may go to 600... but won't know until I finish the 400 sanding). My next step will then be to push the pins out of the stock holding the brass ramrod pipes so I can remove and polish those, and remove and polish the triggerguard and sideplate. Then I'll need to polish and blue the barrel, then get the sights in the dovetails. I'm also considering buying some inlays and inlaying the stock before I stain and finish the stock, and she should be done. I plan on documenting every step and asking lots of questions over in the other thread, so please feel free to come on over and join in the fun! :RO:

 

[bob1961]

Claude doesn't trust me with too many moderators jobs so I can't move this.

this wouldn't happen be cause of a post ya deleted by mistake :hmm:....

Firedanse....ya have to let us know how she shoots fer ya....i'm thinking bout getting a pistol but not sure of what yet................bob

 

Sandpaper and files. Just a bit of advise, You need to do all your filing first, then sandpaper. The reason being that sanding will leave grit in the wood fibers, and can then dull even the hardest of files, as well as any metal cutting tool. So I would recommend that you do all your rough shaping first with file or chisel, or blade, then move to sandpaper. This will keep your metal tools sharper longer. Just :m2c: worth Good luck with that kit, and keep asking

 

[Firedanse]

Hi again. Tell me about these files I need. I'm getting to understand the sandpaper side of it. I tend to jump into things so am trying to line up the ducks before I get started. Do it right the first time. I'll go to the suggested supplementary sites too.

Firedanse

 

[Zonie]

Just to put this into perspective, the Pedersoli pistol kits are 95% finished.
IMO, while the metal parts appear to be rough, there is really not a lot of metal which requires removing. I believe one could get by without filing much if anything and end up with a nice looking gun.

firedanse: If you want to buy a file for working on this kit, I would recommend a 8 or 10 inch "single cut, flat, bastard file". Another file which will work very well is a 6 or 8 inch flat file which is designed for sharpening chain saw chains.
Make sure you get a handle for the file. It goes on the long pointed tang and does 2 things. It gives you better control of the file, and it keeps the tang from poking holes in you hand.

I am sure you have noticed that the stock wood in the kit originally stands proud of the metal where they meet, so before going to all of the work of sanding or filing the metal nose cap etc, I would recommend sanding the wood down with the metal part installed. Useing the rougher sandpaper, start sanding the wood down until it is almost flush with the metal part and blends smoothly into the metal parts contour.

At this stage, switch to the finer sandpapers to smooth the surface and remove the scratches left by the rougher paper.
Try not to "undercut" the wood below the metal part. Undercutting can happen if you try to sand the wood without the metal part in place.
Although sanding the wood with the metal part in place will scratch up the metal part, the metal part will limit the amount of wood you can remove so it will end up being a continous smooth assembly.

The use of a sanding block (a small flat piece of wood will do) should IMO be limited to the flat sides of the stock where the lock and the sideplate are.
Because this stock is 95% done, let its contour (which is rounded almost everywhere) tell the sandpaper what the shape should be. This means don't use a hard sanding block on these contoured surfaces. You don't want to create a bunch of flat surfaces on what should be a rounded contour. Use you fingers to provide the support to the paper in these areas.

For the metal parts, I would suggest buying some of the black colored 220, 320 and 400 grit "wet/dry" sandpaper for finishing the metal parts.
Start with the course paper. When the finish looks uniform, go to the next finer paper. Try not to round off the sharp edges where the metal will meet the wood.
By the time you have finished with the 400 grit paper, the metal will have a nice soft luster to it. From there, rubbing it with a piece of cotton cloth and some Wrights Silver Polish will bring it to a mirror bright shine.
Do not sand or file on the lock. It is color case hardened so sanding on it will damage it's good looks.

Be sure and read the posts by StaticXD00d
here's a link:

Pedersoli Pistol Kit

 

Zonie covered it pretty well, I would add that you can use masking tape to cover the brass parts while sanding the wood with the metal installed, this will protect it some, and reduce the amount of work needed to brighten the metal. heavy clear shipping tape works also. Good luck with your project, and post pictures

 

[Firedanse]

So, this sounds like something I can actually do. I'm looking forward to starting. Anyone ever try to fly with one of these kits in their baggage? I'm headed to Florida to spend time with the folks and am taking the project with me. My guess it's not something they would let me carry on. Will post photos as I go along. Thanks. It's great you all are willing to share your expertise. Helps alot.

 

[Rebel]

You can take a gun on a plane as long as you declare it at the baggage/check in counter. You can not carry it on, but it can be in stowed baggage. Not sure about an unassembled BP kit, but i brought a modern centerfire pistol back from Az. to Or. on the plane. I had to have it in a metal lock box. There was no problem with it as long as i declared it.

 

[Zonie]

There is no way I would even consider trying to take it as carry on items. They don't even like fingernail clippers.

Because it is a kit, it gives the ability to disassemble it. I would take it apart and pack the pieces in different places in my suitcase.
Perhaps the barrel in one place, the lock in another, the stock rotated 90 degrees and put in another area.
You can be sure that your luggage will be X-Ray'ed but the pieces won't look anything like a gun to the people watching the X-Ray screen.
I would also declare that I have Muzzleloading gun parts in my luggage when I checked it in at the counter just in case some curious person decided to check out what all of the parts are. That way they would know I wasn't trying to sneek a weapon (be it ever so disassembled and out of reach)on board the airplane.

There are places (like New York City and Washington DC) which are absolutly paranoid about handguns. If I were going to one of these places, I think I would leave the barrel home and just take the lock, the stock, nosecap and trigger guard.
(Just because I am paranoid doesn't mean they aren't after me). Even the dumbest enforcer could not call those pieces a "gun".

Have fun! ::