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Flintlock question #2: priming powder

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16gauge

40 Cal.
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O.k., forgive me if this has been covered before, but I'm considering a flintlock and my only experience is with caplocks.
Everything I have read says that you need to prime the pan of a flinter with FFFFg powder. However, I was always told that, historically speaking, soldiers bit off the corner of a paper cartridge and placed some of this powder in the pan PRIOR to charging the rifle. So, were they priming a load with FFFFg and had a load with the same, or did they use whatever (FFFg or FFg) in the pan? Is there some advantage to using FFFFg, such as a faster lock time or more sure ignition?
The reason I ask is that I have both FFg and FFFg in my possesion for my current BP guns, and if I could prime with FFFg, it would be more beneficial economically.
Enquiring minds want to know................ :winking:
Thanks in advance.
 
You can prime with 3f and shouldn't notice any difference over 4f. 4f is easier to ignite because it isn't glazed like the others, but it also draws moisture quicker than the others if it is wet or humid out. If you have a good sparking lock, the 3f will do just fine.
 
In theory the finer powder will be ignited faster than the courser powder.
In reality, it doesn't make a measurable difference. I suppose if you were priming with Fg or cannon powder you might notice a difference but 2Fg, 3Fg and 4Fg are all so close, the shooter won't know the difference.

The more important thing is to have a lock with a good frizzen which is capable of creating a good shower of sparks and a good sharp flint which will make that happen.

The best frizzens :imo: have a high carbon content which makes the white hot sparks that explode into many little sparks, rather like a fireworks rocket. Frizzens that produce dull yellow/reddish colored sparks will not ignite the pan powder nearly as quickly as the white hot ones.

A dull flint will produce few sparks off of the frizzen. This will contribute to mis-fires that may not even light the pan's powder.

For best results remember:
1. Don't fill the pan with powder. About 1/3 to 1/2 full is about right. If you are shooting at a range, take the time to distribute the powder across the bottom of the pan with your finger. This increses the likelyhood of a spark hitting it.

2. Never cover the touch hole with pan powder. It should be fully exposed to the flash.

3. Before priming, inserting a thin wire or vent pick into the touch hole can speed up the ignition because it assures the vent hole is clear.

4. After firing, use a dry rag to wipe the flint clean. Do not use your finger. The flint is as sharp as a razor and will slice thru your skin before you know it.

5. Do not use any powder except real Black Powder for the main charge, or for priming the pan.

A properly loaded and primed flintlock with a good lock, good powder and a sharp flint will fire before you even see the flash in the pan.

Have Fun!!! :)
 
The spring loaded priming flask is a hard (not authentic) accoutrement to set aside.

I have primed with FFFFg, because I was taught to, and FFFg and FFg to see how it would work. I could not tell the difference.

But I do know that priming from the horn is a mess, and priming from the cute little spring loaded priming flask is easy, precise, and exact, and unfortunately the larger grain sizes will not feed through the primer.

You should definately try it so that you can learn about, and gain confidence in, your rifle.
 
FFg or FFFg in the pan has two advantages...

1. You only need one horn of powder for both main charge and priming... (a plus if you have a weight lifting restriction, less gear to carry)

2. FFFFg will draw moisture from the air faster than FFFg and FFg... (a plus for damp hunting conditions)
 
For priming powder I crunch up fffg with a saucer and spoon...works for me.

NOT into a fine dust, that's not the idea...just finer than 3f.

My ignition is always fast and reliable.

Rat
 
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