flintlock troubles

[sjf]

Got a 36 cal. Shenandoah rifle through trade and Im not very impressed with it at all.The flint smacks the frizzen and the frizzen just sits there,so theres no flash in pan.It had worked for about 15 shots and thats it.Also the clip inside the stock that holds the metal ramrod in the rifle broke so now it jiggles around and slides out real easy.If anyones had the same problems and knows any fixes I would be much ablighed.

 

[rabjr]

Are you saying your frizzen isn't opening and pivoting out of the way now after 15 shots? Does it open and close hard? I would check the pivot point the screw that holds the frizzen to the lock plate, may need some lube in that area. Once cleaned I would check how easy the frizzen moves, there maybe rust or a burr preventing easy movement of the frizzen. Or your frizzen spring maybe to much on the stiff side. :idunno:

 

[robinghewitt]

Sounds like the flint could be digging in to soft steel, may need hardening.

 

[Trench]

Polish the frizzen spring mirror bright. Then, drop a little oil where the frizzen toe meets the spring. That will eliminate that problem, if it is the problem.

Make sure you're not mounting your flint in such a way that it is hitting the frizzen at a right-angle. It should be strikinga bout 2/3 of the way down from the top.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Is the Shenandoah an import factory made rifle? I'm not familiar with it. If it is, this problem of a poorly made lock is common. It will need work by a knowledgable person. Tune up and frizzen hardening isn't difficult but it does require some experience. The ramrod spring is not a big deal. Get a new rod of hickory. It probably won't be perfectly straight and will hold nicely.

 

[StewartLeach]

Several problems may exist or have arisen. First, are you using genuine flints? The real thing works ever so much better than the sawn blocks of agate that usually come with these rifles. My favorite flint source is Track of the Wolf.

Flints can be mounted with the bevel- the slanted face- up or down. Try mounting with the bevel the opposite of how it came from the carton. You want the edge of the flint to strike the frizzen at a fairly steep glancing angle. It needs to scrape off bits of white hot metal, not bash head on into the frizzen. Experiment a little with a leather pad under the flint to raise the strike point a little.

Getting the frizzen to flip open is important. Buy or find someone with a spring vise, an important tool for gunlock tinkerers. Improvised tools break springs. As said above, polish the area on the spring where the lug on the bottom of the frizzen bears mirror bright with finer and finer grades of emery paper. Polish the bottom of the lug the same way. Keep this area clean and lubricated. I like to use chain saw bar oil here- sticky and designed for sliding contact- but any good oil will work fine. While polishing, smooth up the sides of the frizzen around the pivot hole, and the ears on the lock plate.

On many of these mass manufactured locks it is necessary to remove a little metal from the front of the lug, thus moving the apex or tip over point to the rear. This is fussy- get help from a local expert.

White Fox

 

[Dphar]

Got a 36 cal. Shenandoah rifle through trade and Im not very impressed with it at all.The flint smacks the frizzen and the frizzen just sits there,so theres no flash in pan.It had worked for about 15 shots and thats it.Also the clip inside the stock that holds the metal ramrod in the rifle broke so now it jiggles around and slides out real easy.If anyones had the same problems and knows any fixes I would be much ablighed.

Cheap flintlocks are never a bargain.

Dan

 

[sjf]

Thanks for all the advice everyone.I think Im going to take it back and get a custom flinter that is in the white and finsh it.Im tiered of messing with massproduced muzzleloaders.