Flintlock won't cock

[gorbysj71]

I inherited a custom flintlock and it will stay in half cocked position but wont cock fully. I can pull the hammer? Back to the fully cocked position, it just takes several tries to get it to 'catch" and stay fully cocked. Once cocked it stays cocked (so far) and the gun functions normally. But I feel it is dangerous and I'm not sure what to do. I've called around and there aren't any gunsmiths around that work on flintlocks. I'm trying to get ahold of a long rifle organization in my area to see if they have any contacts but any advice here would be appreciated.

One of the guys at the range said he thought it was an L&R lock?

 

[Tasbay]

Take the lock off the gun and see if it will cock. You may find the triggers are inletted too deeply and may just need a shim to bring them out of the recess some. You really need to take the lock off before you know where to go to identify the problem.

 

[EC121]

Take the lock out and see if it works out of the rifle. If it does, then some part is sticking on the wood. Look around and see if the sear bar is rubbing somewhere. You can also black the internal parts of the lock with a candle and then install and work the lock a few times and see where the black rubs off in the inlet. The tumbler might also be sticking or binding from the wood shrinking. You say you inherited it. That shrinkage will happen to older guns.

 

[garypl]

Check that the lock screws are not tightened too tightly causing binding - easy to check - just back the screws out 1/2 turn and see if it improves

 

[Grenadier1758]

@gorbysj71, you have received some good trouble shooting procedures to help you identify the problem without going to a flintlock knowledgeable gunsmith.

Good suggestions from all the responses. Do you have set triggers? Will the lock go to full cock if the triggers are set? If you don't want to take the lock out to investigate and you have a single trigger, push the trigger forward to lower the trigger lever and see if the lock can be set on full cock. If it can be placed on full cock when the triggers are set or when the trigger is pushed forward, then the triggers are too deeply inlet in the trigger mortise and a shim between the triggers and the stock should solve the problem.

Otherwise, there are moving lock internal parts, probably the sear lever, that are rubbing on the wood.

@gorbysj71, let us know what you determine to be the problem. Once you know if the problem is with the triggers or the lock, that will help your gunsmith when the problem is being resolved.

 

[david w]

Check that the lock screws are not tightened too tightly causing binding - easy to check - just back the screws out 1/2 turn and see if it improves

I agree. I have two rifles that the lock screw can be too tight and bind the hammer from going into full cock. If I experience binding, I loosen the screw a bit and tap it with the handle of my screw driver. It doesn't take much to free up the tension.

 

[gorbysj71]

Thank you all for the advice, it helps! I will try the suggestions. I have had the lock out and cleaned the rust that collected over the 30 years of sitting around. It was stuck before I cleaned it and worked (mostly) after the cleaning. I will try backing out the screws a bit and see if that helps. If not, I will take the lock out and try the other things you guys suggested. I will post my findings and maybe pictures soon. My GF has a list of S*** for me to do this weekend so I might not get to it for a couple of days.

 

[R Ellis]

When you get the gun working shoot the list jmo

 

[The Appalachian]

Rusty, stuck, works "mostly" after cleaning out some rust.

Nows a great time to learn how to disassemble a flint lock and get a good look at the internals. I can bet heavy odds there's still rust in places it shouldn't be, tumbler, bridle, fly (especially the fly if it won't stay dependably at full cock), sear notches, etc.

An L&R is pretty easy to break down, you will need a couple spring vises to do it right.

 

[SDSmlf]

Rusty, stuck, works "mostly" after cleaning out some rust.

Nows a great time to learn how to disassemble a flint lock and get a good look at the internals. I can bet heavy odds there's still rust in places it shouldn't be, tumbler, bridle, fly (especially the fly if it won't stay dependably at full cock), sear notches, etc.

An L&R is pretty easy to break down, you will need a couple spring vises to do it right.

I was about to respond with a similar post….. That said, if you think it’s an L&R, you should be able to get a schematic and assembly instructions online. L&R is a forum sponsor and a link is at the top of the page.

 

[ohio ramrod]

When disassembling locks I always work "inside the box". That is a large cardboard box laid on it's side to catch any loose or "flying parts". Springs have a desire to "spring".

 

[rich pierce]

When disassembling locks I always work "inside the box". That is a large cardboard box laid on it's side to catch any loose or "flying parts". Springs have a desire to "spring".

They don’t call them “flies” for nothing! I always wrap mine in a couple inch piece of duct tape and write “fly” on it. Or “try flying now little sucka”.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Note that fly on the L&R locks can be installed two ways. One way works and the other doesn't. When installed correctly, the more slanted edge faces the full cock notch. The fly is to prevent the sear nose falling into the half cock notch when the set triggers release the tumbler. It can't stop the lock from going to full cock. Be very careful when removing the fly. They seem to have some mystical nature that causes them to want to go into hiding.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Sear might have been jeweled down and broke or chipped, all guess work till we see the pics

 

[Musket69]

Is there a sear set screw? Too tight/hair trigger?

 

[david w]

Thank you all for the advice, it helps! I will try the suggestions. I have had the lock out and cleaned the rust that collected over the 30 years of sitting around. It was stuck before I cleaned it and worked (mostly) after the cleaning. I will try backing out the screws a bit and see if that helps. If not, I will take the lock out and try the other things you guys suggested. I will post my findings and maybe pictures soon. My GF has a list of S*** for me to do this weekend so I might not get to it for a couple of days.

Well, is the problem solved? Oh, sorry, forgot about the "honey do's"!

 

[olskool]

on my 40 that has a Davis lock, if the sear screw is fully tight it doses the same thing as yours. i just put thread locker on the sear screw and put in in the position that it works and left it alone,,,,,,,,,,

 

[gorbysj71]

Ok, so I sat down today to work on this problem and the first thing I did was back off the screw on the other side of the hammer slightly. I had to work to get it to break free. Its still snug just not super tight. I haven't had a problem cocking the gun since. I am going to put some blue locktite on it and call it good. Thank you to everyone for your help figuring this out, you all had great suggestions!

 

[Grenadier1758]

The sear lever that contacts the trigger lever is a little long. The tip of the sear lever could be ground back 0.10" to give some internal relief to the sear and the tumbler.

 

[gorbysj71]

The sear lever that contacts the trigger lever is a little long. The tip of the sear lever could be ground back 0.10" to give some internal relief to the sear and the tumbler.

I'm not familiar enough with the workings of the lock, I dont know where the seer is. If I did, would I use a dremel tool or a file to grind it off?