For priming a pan in .54 cal?

[Rifleman1776]

The fellow that beat me at the 50 yard over the log event was named John Braxton...His guns have won a few trophys at Friendship...

John Braxton used to camp next to us at Friendship. His guns also reside in some museums. I regret the day he offered to build me a Jaeger on credit and I declined.

 

[bpd303]

That's correct. In my new (to me) smoothbore it seems to like 4f in the pan. I tried 3f and it seems to give a larger flash & slight delay. But that may have been all in my head.

 

[Mr.D123]

You'll be impressed to know, that as a new shooter, I did fall for that kind of thinking. I read and read some more.
:blah:

 

[nchawkeye]

I enjoyed the few times I met and talked with John, interesting fellow...Before the internet we actually listened to those with his type experience... :grin:

 

[Grumpa]

All I use anymore in my flints (.58 and .54)for prime is FFg, which is the only powder I've ever used for charging the rifles, and my Navy Colt replica. I prefer the coarse powder over FFFFg.
One of these days I'll try 3Fg.

 

[Paul_R]

You're not alone, it's in my head too. And I spent $24 on a can of 4f when I first got into this little hobby and i'm not about towaste it!! Dang it..

 

[Robby]

Sumo, Yes like these fellows say you can use FFF for priming, FF can also work for priming, and probably F as well. The more you shoot, the more you will sense just how fast and consistent your time is from trigger pull to ignition of the main charge. FFFF is more consistent from shot to shot in speed of the ignition itself and ignition of the main charge. Is it required? No of course not. Somewhere along the way you might want to try it and see for yourself. I am not trying to stir things up and always think people should do what they feel works best for them and their situation. My experience is based on hands on usage and fair experimentation and think you should try all the roads open to you before you decide which one to take. Good luck!!!
Robby

 

[nkbj]

I'm using what the F (Jacks Battle) in everything I can instead of 2F and 3F. Works just fine in .36 through .58. And I really oughta check it out in the .69.

 

[Dphar]

Order some FFFF. Faster ignition makes it easier to hit things. The difference in ignition time between Swiss Null B or FFFF and FF is about like the total lock time of a 700 Remington (3.0 ms).
See http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/priming-powder-timing.php

I have never seen a preference in reference to priming powder, other than the larger grain sizes are increasingly slower and slower and throw larger flaming particles than FFFF or Null B.
There is a noticable difference, to my senses, between Null B and FF Swiss.
There are other factors as well. For example some locks are so sloppily put together than they will leak FFFF or Null B and unprime themselves while being carried. This is not the fault of the powder, however.
FLs work from radiant heat. The faster the heat rise the faster and more sure is the ignition. Finer powder gives faster heat rise.

Now is finer powder necessary? No. Most locks will light Cannon powder which is so large the frizzen will not even close properly on some locks. But its is very very slow.

Dan

 

[Eljay]

I do think if that when the OP gets to the point where he wants to try faster power it makes sense to skip 4F and go right to the NullB. If you're going to do it, do it all the way.

 

[Larry Pletcher]

Order some FFFF. Faster ignition makes it easier to hit things. The difference in ignition time between Swiss Null B or FFFF and FF is about like the total lock time of a 700 Remington (3.0 ms).
See http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/priming-powder-timing.php
. . . . . . snipped. . . . .

Now is finer powder necessary? No. Most locks will light Cannon powder which is so large the frizzen will not even close properly on some locks. But its is very very slow.

Dan

One of the fun things about experimentation comes when someone says, "Hey, what if we tried....". We did a slow motion video of a Siler with Goex Cannon grade in the pan. As Dan said, we had to roll the "coal" around to close the frizzen. Since it worked, we decided to try the lock up side down. It fired fine that way too, but a couple of granules did fall away before they could be ignited.

Since experimentation is my thing, I encourage folks to try different priming powders and use what they (and their gun) like.
Regards,
Pletch

 

[Billnpatti]

For the most part, burning time is a function of grain size. Anything from 3f to Null B will work in a flintlock pan but the Null B will ignite faster than 3f. 4f is a bit faster than 3f but slower than Null B. Some people can tell no difference from one to another but it is obvious to me. My choice is Null B for two main reasons. First, I bought a pound of it a few years ago and still have most of it. Second, I can tell a difference in the ignition time in my flintlocks.

 

[sumoj275]

Thanks for the info. I will try differnt load combos and see how i works. I may even see how 4F works if someone has some at the range tomorrow. I should be a fun and interesting adventure.