formula for powder charge

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When I started in muzzleloading, most folks shot only round ball and there were no fast twist flinters. Old line wisdom of the day was:

2fg for bores ovr 45
3fg for bores 45 and under

Target load about 1 grain per caliber (50 cal - 50 grains
Hunting load up to 2 grains per caliber (50 caliber - 100 grains.

Work from there as needed.

Now 45 years later, we have fast twist flint locks shooting elephant skinner sabots and bullets with glow in the dark plastic tips. Most of which come no where near what is required for long range accuracy. The green hill formula is good for such hybrid guns.

The Davenport formula is more a way to establish the point of diminishing returns for powder consumption of a given barrel. For many barrels that comes out around the more accurate load. By point of diminishing returns I am referring to the point at which adding more powder does not yield the same increase in velocity, as the increments before it. For instance in a 28 inch 50 caliber barrel, velocity climbs at a nearly equal amount, until we get to about 90 grains. adding 10 grains to make it 100 will normally result in higher velocity, but not by the same amount at the increase from 70 to 80 or 80 to 90. Going from 100 to 110, also increases velocity, but to an even lesser amount of increase. The theory is that at some point while increasing amounts of powder, as the ball leaves the muzzle more powder gets burned up in the muzzle flash and less of it imparts velocity to the ball. The point of diminshing returns happens to come very close to what some shooters find their barrel shoots best for accuracy. There are those who shoot very slow twists who say 130 grains in their 50 is best on deer. 1, that is minute of deer accuracy, not paper target accuracy and 2, few such shooters have fired the hundreds of shots at various charges to even knowingly make such a judgment.

There is a saying that each and every bore has a single best most accurate charge, patch ball combination. I disagree. I think there may be several such combinations. for each barrel. But such things as rifling configuration, twist and powder charge need be considered. Target shooters often fire thousands of loads through their guns. They may adjust their charge for wind and distance.

They know their gun's sights' difference between sunny days and cloudy.

All the formulas in the world will only get you an approximation of where to start. Some say Dan'l Boone and Davy never used any formulas. And that is true. But they did not design the guns they shot either. They relied on others for that.
 
Time was you never used fffg in anything larger than .45 caliber. Now I use fffg in all my muzzle loaders.

Time was you only used pure lead to make rb bullets but I have used ww lead and no issues. Learned that from some long time muzzle loaders when pure lead was hard to get.

Time was there wasn't a muzzle loading rifle that was safe to shoot smokeless powder but savage rifle company changed that.

What all this tells us is that there is no total constant when we talk about muzzle loaders things are changing all the time some for the better some are just plain stupid and still others need to studied much more.
 
zimmerstutzen said:
When I started in muzzleloading, most folks shot only round ball and there were no fast twist flinters. Old line wisdom of the day was:

2fg for bores ovr 45
3fg for bores 45 and under

Target load about 1 grain per caliber (50 cal - 50 grains
Hunting load up to 2 grains per caliber (50 caliber - 100 grains.

Work from there as needed.

For safety reasons, 3f can be safely used in .54cal and under while (especially in off the shelf rifles) you would e wise to use 2f in rifles .54 and above.
While target loads (rule of thumb) start at 1 grain per caliber, your hunting, or long range, load need be increased by approx. 40% (not double) any more than this is quite simply a waste as any "extra" powder that has not been burnt by the end of the barrel will be just dumped out onto the ground yealding no further benefit.
 
shdwlkr said:
What safety issues is there with using 3f powder in .58 and larger calibers??
If you follow the 10-15% less by volume when using 3f instead of 2f what are the issues?
None that I have ever noticed....As long as your gun is in good condition and your not shooting magnum charges...
I shoot 3ff in everything....58 and 12 gauge included...
However I keep my powder charges on the lighter side...55-80 in 12 gauge and no more than 80 in the .58
3ff produces a sharper recoil...
If I was going to shoot 120 grains in a Bess, I'd use 2ff or even 1 f

From an accuracy standpoint 3fff may not be the best choice. only testing will tell.

The weight of your projectile also makes a difference....as does and wadding..

I have never seen nor heard of anyone who blew up a gun simply because he used 3fff.

Just my opinion.
 
shdwlkr said:
What safety issues is there with using 3f powder in .58 and larger calibers??
If you follow the 10-15% less by volume when using 3f instead of 2f what are the issues?
I use 75-80 grains of FFFg in .62 caliber as my load and have done so for many years.
 
My secret formula for calculating the best charge for a muzzleloader is to shoot it varying one thing at a time until I find the most accurate load. With luck, finding a lighter target/squirrel load and a heaver hunting load. Think Dutch's System. As far as safety concern when using fff in larger calibers have to call BS. Have found in most cases with heavy charges of either ff or fff, accuracy goes away long before danger zone is approached. With a large caliber and a slow twist (say 1-72) your shoulder will let you know before you are in danger zone - if it can take battering to get to the the accurate load. As a general statement find fff shoots hotter and cleaner that ff and Swiss shoots hotter and cleaner that Goex - at least in my experience.
 
rick/pa said:
Many years ago, I ran across a formula for calculating the best charge for a muzzleloader. It used the twist rate, weight of the ball, caliber, and probably another one or two variables I've forgotten. I checked it out against what I found to be accurate charges in my own guns and it was right on. I've lost the formula somewhere, does anybody else recall seeing something like this?

I think you may be speaking of the Davenport Formula. It doesn't calculate the most accurate load for your rifle, it only calculates an approximation of the Maximum Efficient load for a given barrel. To calculate this value you simply calculate the volume of your bore in cubic inches and multiply by 11.5 to get the grains of powder that will be the Maximum Efficient load for that barrel. Its weakness is that it doesn't take into consideration the variables inherent in different granulations and different brands of powder. It yields only an approximation. If you want to know what Maximum Efficient Load means, get back to me and I will explain it to you. It has little, if anything, to do with accuracy.

There is also the Greenhill Equation but that applies to conical bullets, not patched round balls.

I know of no calculation that will give you the most accurate load for your rifle. There are simply too many variables. You need to start with a load that is equal in grains to the caliber of your rifle. Shoot several shots at a target with your rifle on sandbags. Then increase your charge by 5 grains and shoot again. Keep doing this until you find your most accurate load.

There is a theory, and I haven't done any research on it so I can't say for sure if it is correct, but it says that if a bullet or ball passes through the transonic speed between the muzzle and the target, it becomes unstable in that speed zone. This is supposed to result in inaccuracy. So, if your ball leaves your bore at about 1200 fps (the approximate speed of sound at sea level under standard condition) and slows to less than the speed of sound, you will loose accuracy. According to the theory, one would need to use a load that guarantees to keep the ball above the speed of sound all the way to the target. Well, there may be something to the theory......and then again........maybe it is just a theory. Your best bet is to just do as I said and work up a load for your rifle and forget what works in a friends rifle. Your rifle is unique, as are all muzzleloading rifles, and needs to have you find what it likes.

Let me highly recommend this to you www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com it will show you how to get the most accurate load for your rifle and many other things related to maximum accuracy. The author, Dutch Schoultz, is a man with much experience, knowledge and wisdom in muzzleloading accuracy and is worthy of your attention. The $20 that he charges for his accuracy system is a mear pittance compared to what you will learn and what you will save in powder and lead trying to do it on your own.
 
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shdwlkr said:
What safety issues is there with using 3f powder in .58 and larger calibers??
If you follow the 10-15% less by volume when using 3f instead of 2f what are the issues?

Like I said, rule of thumb in "off the shelf" guns ie; those having large caliber and relative thin wall thickness, the faster burning 3f will generate higher breach pressures than 2f, this being said a heaver barrel wall at the breach will compensate for this and will not be a problem.
 
There has been a lot of conversation about a powder charge and safety.
Here is something to consider.

As we all know, we WILL seat a nicely patched ball on an empty breech so we faced with the problem of retrieving the lead ball.
Not so common is the other error caused by distraction: the nicely patched lead ball seated on a double charge of powder caused by thinking about something else or just simply getting involved in a conversation with a nearby buddy.

Another variation of this is loading twice without firing.

I did this second goofball procedure with two loads of 73 grains of 3Æ’Æ’Æ’ and thereby awarded myself with the Grand Order of the PURPLE SHOULDER..
DOING THIS IS REMARKABLY EDUCATIONAL You are very likely not to do this again. It is an experience you do not want to repeat.
If you use a marked ramrod so you will know as you seat the ball correctly whether there is too much powder or too many lead ball in the breech

As far as formulas are concerned , on rifles with a .45 caliber bore or larger I found that one and a half times the caliber is a safe starting point and will probably be a few grains above that figure.
For my .45 caliber Hawken type rifles I ended up with a very nit picky 73 grains.

I began as most people do with 3Æ’Æ’Æ’. I experimented with 2Æ’Æ’ expecting to have to make some load adjustments but found that my groups were just the same. Your experiment may give different results
With the smaller calibers I think my 1.5 x caliber would be a bit much so feel you should experiment with 20 grains of 3Æ’Æ’Æ’ and work up to see where the rifle is most happy

All my experimentation was with .45 and above

Dutch Schoultz
 
Don't know that it adds a darned thing to the discussion, however I once played with loads of 4f in my T/C Hawken. Above 90 grains things got pretty zippy. One hundred yards holds lowered a few inches. The hammer started blowing back to half cock. At 120gr there was a mighty big boom and a strato cumulus cloud of smoke and the hammer blew back to full cock. I'd say the maximum effective load of 4f in a 45 is around 75 grains. Generally I stick with the 2f-3f rules of thumb based on caliber.
 
Kansas Volunteer said:
Don't know that it adds a darned thing to the discussion, however I once played with loads of 4f in my T/C Hawken. Above 90 grains things got pretty zippy. One hundred yards holds lowered a few inches. The hammer started blowing back to half cock. At 120gr there was a mighty big boom and a strato cumulus cloud of smoke and the hammer blew back to full cock. I'd say the maximum effective load of 4f in a 45 is around 75 grains. Generally I stick with the 2f-3f rules of thumb based on caliber.

I would not be putting 75 or 90 grs. of 4f BP in any rifle, let along 120 grs. Otherwise you may find yourself a contender for one of the Darwin awards... :youcrazy:

If you feel particularly lucky, use a small amount in a pistol
 
Kansas Volunteer said:
Don't know that it adds a darned thing to the discussion, however I once played with loads of 4f in my T/C Hawken. Above 90 grains things got pretty zippy. One hundred yards holds lowered a few inches. The hammer started blowing back to half cock. At 120gr there was a mighty big boom and a strato cumulus cloud of smoke and the hammer blew back to full cock. I'd say the maximum effective load of 4f in a 45 is around 75 grains. Generally I stick with the 2f-3f rules of thumb based on caliber.

Agree with Twisted, NEVER use 4f as a charge load, unless you've got some particular "death wish", and then find some other way to do it.
 
Kansas Volunteer
Your experiments with 4Æ’Æ’Æ’Æ’ as a main powder charge is interesting. It's possible todo these things and till live
You have not injured your vision or wrecked your rifle.

One day at the range i gentleman appeared with a Pennsylvania style rifle that while being very well built was about half again larger than a regular made in that style
He was loading it with 160 or 180 grains of power and firing at a target 50 yards away. when he pulled the trigger, the ground shook and the noise was such that we assumed he was planning to kill bambi with sound alone. using some little known Colonial High Tech procedure.
After the cloud cleared away and the sun began to shine though, we discovered that there a had been no evidence of anything hitting his target.

Another thunder blast and still nothing on target.
The consensus was that the enormous blast was liquifying the lead ball into something like what you expect to find in a handkerchief when suffering from a bad cod.

AQnother example was a very home-made looking double barreled .70 something pistol which actually didn't break his wrist when , as intended, both barrels would fire at the same time.

He built this device in order to go bear hunting. He never showed up at the range again and speculation was that he probably had achieved an unexpectedly intimate relationship with a large furry forest friend.
My main fun with sport invalid experimentation but alway moved slowly in small increments.

By over charging gun barrels you just might be leaving the sport of rifle art and entering in the wonderful world of bomb manufacture. When these things go wrong the publicity they create will bring the anti gun folk to the forefront doing all they can to limit the people who follow the rules based on good sense.

When I was spending3 or 4 days at the range I witnessed some reassume really stupid behaviors with both suppository and some MY rifles and pistols . This caused me to become extraalertOnlyonce did I get showered in pieces of badly handled modern hand gun..

Be careful don't hurt yourself or anyone else.

Dutch
 
Tenngun, I agree that the formula that I posted does not work for smooth bore long guns and it was never intended to. I do stand by it though for rifles in all calibers, as long as the rifle is loaded with fffg and patched round ball. And again, it is intended for a starting load that will get you in the ballpark and has to be adjusted up or down according to your needs.
 
My "test shooting" 4f loads was done very long ago. I genuinely wanted to see what I could learn about loading blackpowder. I compared to loads of coarser grade. I've stuck with sensible loads since, although I don't have a big issue with substituting 2f or 3f in loads of the same weight.

Now, does anyone want to hear about my experiments with hand grenades? Yes, I really did. ;)
 
mr.flintlock said:
And again, it is intended for a starting load that will get you in the ballpark and has to be adjusted up or down according to your needs.

You could accomplish the same by throwing a dart at the wall blindfolded.....Or reading tea leaves...

A formula that "gets you close but you still have to adjust it up or down according to your needs" by experimenting... :rotf: Laughable.... It makes for a great campfire story...

Why don't we call it a "rough guess" instead of a "formula"........Then we can quit arguing.
 
Colorado, If what you are saying is true, then I am open for advice. What exactly is your method of taking a brand new muzzleloader and come up with the perfect load that will give the best accuracy and power, that will not have to be tweaked. In other words, will be the perfect load the first and every shot?
 
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