Fowler/shotgun ramrods

[Onojutta]

I'm nearing completion of a Chambers English fowler kit and need to make the ramrod soon. It's a 20 gauge (.62 cal) and will be used for both shot and round ball. The ramrod channel is cut for 5/16" rod which is on the small side compared to a ramrod for say a .50 cal rifle. So what's the most appropriate style of ramrod to use for a mid-18th century fowler/shotgun? I could just leave the 5/16 rod straight, I could taper a 1/2" rod down so that it has a flare or "club" at the muzzle end, or I could use a flared brass "trumpet" fitting on the muzzle end. Thanks.

 

[deerstalkert]

I just made one for the fowler i am building. I bored the channel 3/8" and used 3/8 thimbles reamed out slightly and polished inside. the entry pipe actually stayed at 3/8 and was polished and align bored to match the channel perfectly. the middle thimble was reamed and polished to a 13/32".
the forward thimble was reamed out and polished to 7/16. I tapered the rod to fit and once the forearm is slimmed to finish size and the nose cap poured, i will put a trumpet end on the rod.
the other end of the rod is just going to be finished wood.
in reality i am going to council the guy buying this one against using the slim rod and will make him a robust one that won't break at the worst moment. this is going to be a working gun used for most of the year.
mine also is a 20gauge.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Track sells tulip heads that look good and work very, very well. The other end can have a tapered threaded tip for a tow worm. Log cabin makes very good tips and worms.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I'm nearing completion of a Chambers English fowler kit and need to make the ramrod soon. It's a 20 gauge (.62 cal) and will be used for both shot and round ball. The ramrod channel is cut for 5/16" rod which is on the small side compared to a ramrod for say a .50 cal rifle. So what's the most appropriate style of ramrod to use for a mid-18th century fowler/shotgun? I could just leave the 5/16 rod straight, I could taper a 1/2" rod down so that it has a flare or "club" at the muzzle end, or I could use a flared brass "trumpet" fitting on the muzzle end. Thanks.

A tapered ramrod, if you can make one, certainly!
On one of mine, the builder had attached a 4” length of horn which is nicely flared and carved. It looks and works very nice. Also consider a jag attachment piece for other end.
(I don’t use this original old rod much, only with wadding and no round ball because it’s not replaceable, and use a custom range rod for this 53” barrel instead.)

 

[rich pierce]

The narrower rods for fowlers were designed to seat wads. If a gun is intended for tightly patched round ball shooting, a 3/8” rod is safer for most shooters. I like a flared rod on fowlers. Otherwise card wads can get edgewise while seating.

 

[smoothshooter]

I'm nearing completion of a Chambers English fowler kit and need to make the ramrod soon. It's a 20 gauge (.62 cal) and will be used for both shot and round ball. The ramrod channel is cut for 5/16" rod which is on the small side compared to a ramrod for say a .50 cal rifle. So what's the most appropriate style of ramrod to use for a mid-18th century fowler/shotgun? I could just leave the 5/16 rod straight, I could taper a 1/2" rod down so that it has a flare or "club" at the muzzle end, or I could use a flared brass "trumpet" fitting on the muzzle end. Thanks.

I would not be satisfied with anything less than a 3/8” diameter rod.
I would also put 10x32 threaded rod ends on both ends. Cross drilled across the wood grain and brass pinned.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I like a 1/2" or 3/8" rod with a flared brass or wooden tip tapered down to 5/16" tapered iron threaded tip for jags.

 

[Robin101]

5/16" diameter is fine for that gun and will give a nice trim tight profile, just make sure your getting one with the grain running end to end, hickory of course. Putting the tulip on it is easiest way to have a broader tip for seating the cards when loading shot and even tapped for your cleaning accessories, but the jag from your kit can be used for that purpose if you are just usinf a 5/16" brass tip. A nice piece of tapered and flared horn also makes a nice end piece for the rod on a fowler.
Robin

 

[Rob M.]

I'm nearing completion of a Chambers English fowler kit and need to make the ramrod soon. It's a 20 gauge (.62 cal) and will be used for both shot and round ball. The ramrod channel is cut for 5/16" rod which is on the small side compared to a ramrod for say a .50 cal rifle. So what's the most appropriate style of ramrod to use for a mid-18th century fowler/shotgun? I could just leave the 5/16 rod straight, I could taper a 1/2" rod down so that it has a flare or "club" at the muzzle end, or I could use a flared brass "trumpet" fitting on the muzzle end. Thanks.

Just my 2 cents .... All my ramrods start out as a 1/2" hickory rod ... Before an awesome New Englander sold me one of those fine taper tools I used my rasp and tapered the ramrod from 1/2" to 5/16 . It took me 1 1/2 hour to complete it . the taper starts rather abruptly just before the first ramrod pipe , both pipes are made around a 3/8 arbor , and going into said pipes it must be a hair under 3/8" dia. Naturally I start on the small end and work the Ramrod down until it final all goes where it should , leaving the large end at 1/2" . Then I add the brass end for attachments . Remember ...a 3/8" hole in your forearm means your ramrod must be a hair under 3/8 " dia. to move in and out . I realize the original guns and rifles , many had small 5/16 or smaller ramrods but ...not for me . Ive had too many stubborn loads and or cleanings . The 5/16 ramrod keeps the stock looking slim , hate that bulky look in fore stocks , but you can do it with a 3/8" hole in the forearm .... To each their own ... Best of luck