Frizzen Face Texture

[James Kibler]

See the skip at the top, that is a frizzen bounce ! What one wants is an even scrape pattern down the entire frizzen face so that gullies are not carved in to shorten flint life.

I couldn't care if there is a region the flint doesn't scrape. In my view it is of no significance.

 

[M. De Land]

I couldn't care if there is a region the flint doesn't scrape. In my view it is of no significance.

Might want to read up on Fred Stuzenburgers articles on frizzen bounce cause and effect. He has since past but was a very gifted flint gun builder we could all learn from.

 

[M. De Land]

Here is a picture of the Chambers Deluxe lock I have on my SMR using my home knapped serrated edge flints that spark like sixty with very light but consistent, no bounce contact as it moves down frizzen. The rifle has about 150 shots through it I would guess and is barely broken in.
Note the strike contact is roughly a third way down frizzen and contact is unbroken down the face as the serrated edge changes it's contact line across the frizzen face. This contact change across the face makes both the firzzen and flint last longer and discourages gully cutting.

This is a picture of an inexpensive Moruku flint pistol I picked up for 20 bucks that needed a front sight,trigger job and stock repair. It makes as good or better sparks consistently than does my expensive match pistol I worked over.
Note the strike contact point and even no bounce scrape.
The flints are my home knapped made from Keokuk heat treated chert from Oklahoma. I make them from point scrap chips with no humps to grind off. They are as good as any English I have ever purchased and are free to me with a little elbow grease.
Interestingly this pistol was made with no flash hole liner and angled forward of the breech plug. It is a very reliable sparker and have used it in matches out to 50 yards with success.

 

[M. De Land]

This is a picture of an inexpensive Moruku flint pistol I picked up for 20 bucks that needed a front sight,trigger job and stock repair. It makes as good or better sparks consistently than does my expensive match pistol I worked over.
Note the strike contact point and even no bounce scrape.
The flints are my home knapped made from Keokuk heat treated chert from Oklahoma. I make them from point scrap chips with no humps to grind off. They are as good as any English I have ever purchased and are free to me with a little elbow grease.
Interestingly this pistol was made with no flash hole liner and angled forward of the breech plug. It is a very reliable sparker and have used it in matches out to 50 yards with success.

Note the pick angle in the flash hole of the third picture, moving it forward of the breech plug face. I've not seen this angular flash hole channel before but found it quite interesting. I would have thought it would slow ignition but if it does I cannot tell as the gun is very reliable producing good spark and quick ignition. Thinking on it some the angular flash hole should not be much different than a patent breech application.
I bet it will be interesting to line when it erodes out !

 

[SDSmlf]

Note the pick angle in the flash hole of the third picture, moving it forward of the breech plug face.

The samples I have seen were drilled through the breech plug face.

 

[M. De Land]

The samples I have seen were drilled through the breech plug face.

Thanks for the response, I might be mistaken so will get out my scope and check for sure and post back.

The samples I have seen were drilled through the breech plug face.

Mine angles in and barely insects the top corner of the breech plug face .

 

[SDSmlf]

Thanks for the response, I might be mistaken so will get out my scope and check for sure and post back.

Mine angles in and barely insects the top corner of the breech plug face .

Likely doesn’t make a difference on these guns, particularly at the price point they were originally sold at, but I like the through the breech plug face option over catching the corner of the plug face given a choice. I prefer that continuous unbroken seal between the breech plug and the shoulder in the barrel with no interruption of that lead thread. Yes, I know some originals were made with a notch in the breech plug face, just not my preference.

 

[M. De Land]

Likely doesn’t make a difference on these guns, particularly at the price point they were originally sold at, but I like the through the breech plug face option over catching the corner of the plug face given a choice. I prefer that continuous unbroken seal between the breech plug and the shoulder in the barrel with no interruption of that lead thread. Yes, I know some originals were made with a notch in the breech plug face, just not my preference.

I agree about the un-compromized plug shoulder seal being preferred !

 

[FlinterNick]

Getting close to finishing my first flint lock kit build, an old CVA 45 Kentucky pistol I bought way way back in the late 70's. Be my first go around with shooting a flint firearm. Question is what should be the surface texture on the frizzen. Figure it should have some roughness. The face on the CVA frizzen is sort of semi-smooth with a few vertical lines in it. Should it be roughed up more with vertical lines or would horizontal lines give a better spark. Horizontal lines I'm thinking would wear the flint more. In roughing it, what is the best way to go at it and what to use. Appreciate any input.

The frizzen surface is going to be textured no matter what you do, because of use. You certainly do not need to rough it up in advance, that would only remove some of the carbon content that’s on the surface of the steel. If the frizzen is appropriately hardened, and the lock has good energy and geometry then it should spark just fine.