frizzen isue on a traditions deerhunter

[ericrutters]

ive got a .50 deerhunter flintlock and the top jaw screw is hitting the top of my frizzen ive got my flint set as close to touching as it can get on the frizzen if i move my flint forward it lifts the frizzen if i move the flint back the screw hits i realize these are no where near a top of the line gun but this is a big deal and is a matter of geometry im using a 5/8 flint if i could get a thinner flint i think this would solve the problem but them i run the issue of the flint not being strong enough ive got it set to where it is clearing right now but as my flint wears ill have to adjust im not certian that this is the way it should be there should be a little leeway imo were talining less than 1mm of tolerance its got to be exactly right ive considered grinding the top 1/3 of the frizzen face back a little as it really serves no purpose that high up on the face and would solve my problem has anyoune else ever dealt with such an issue and how was it resolved thank you in advance

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Got a picture ?

Maybe turn the flint to the bevel down position ?

:idunno:

 

[ericrutters]

here is a pic of the lock as you can see in the second pic the lock is hanging up its not at halfcock its hung up if i move my flint back the screw hangs up if i move it forward it holds my pan open cant figure out how to post pics but heres a link to the pics http://s1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj627/rutters27/?action=view&current=lock2.jpg

 

[ericrutters]

this is with the flint just touching the frizzen at halfcock i cannot move it forward anymore without it opening the flash pan

 

[ericrutters]

looking at my own pic i think maybe if it comes to it ill take some material out of the top jaw from the top area where its raised a little so the screw will set lower in doing so i may also have to shorten the jaw screw what do you more experienced guys think would be a better move working the frizzen down or the top jaw or a little off both so its no so noticable on either piece i must add i got this flinter for a great price and have no intentions of ever getting rid of it i just want it to be reliable and usable i have shot it and it shoots well 2" groups at 50 yds with 80 grains fff goex covered with a dry patch and a .495 patched and butered round ball and im quite new at this maybe 20 shots total i intend on using this gun for many years to come

 

[Trot]

I think your hammer is bent downward, that flint hits ridiculously low on the frizzen. I believe you need to straighten the hammer, or get another.

 

[fyrfyter43]

Yeah, I agree. I think somebody bent the cock for whatever reason. With as low as the flint is hitting the frizzen, I don't see how ignition can possibly be reliable.

 

[flyfisher76544]

I think your hammer is bent downward, that flint hits ridiculously low on the frizzen. I believe you need to straighten the hammer, or get another.

Agreed, hope you get her fixed. :hatsoff:

 

[Rifleman1776]

I think your hammer is bent downward, that flint hits ridiculously low on the frizzen. I believe you need to straighten the hammer, or get another.

Yep. The geometry is all screwed up. You need to re-bend the hammer or get another one. There are enough issues with flintlocks as they are. Too bad you have to deal with such and unusual situation created by someone who didn't know what they were doing.

 

[ebiggs1]

There is an old saying, “You can make a bad lock a horrible lock pretty quickly.” If someone did make alterations to your lock and didn't know what they were doing, make sure you are not that guy! :hmm:
Get a replacement cock first and any other parts you might be “working” on. :thumbsup:
The flint should be striking the frizzen much higher up. At least over half way up. But you must maintain the correct angle. If you get it in the right spot but the flint is bashing into the frizzen because of incorrect angle, you will just replace one issue with another.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Interesting,

Are you the original owner ?

Looks like the sear is in fact not in the half cock notch of the tumbler, maybe its just the picture quality.

How does the lock spark, is it reliable.

without having the lock in hand its hard to make a clear determination about what the problem is, looks as though you could use a flint with a bit of a hump in it.

I use an L&R bailes lock on my flinter, it calls for a 5/8" flint, when the flint is new it holds the frizzen up off of the pan, not and issue when hunting steel targets.

I would like to see a series of clear pictures with the lock at rest, half cock, and full cock, all from the inside of the lock plate view.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

There is also this rout, maybe the better fix in the end.

L&R Replacement Lock small

L&R Replacement Lock large

 

[Stubert]

If the half cock notch is damaged, it would change the entire geometry. A properly positioned half cock would permit the use of a longer flint, thereby putting the screw farther away. If it were mine, I would get someone who knows locks to look at it BEFORE you start bending things.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Yes, good thinking. You must have waited until yer morning coffee kicked in before trying to think. :redface:
Also, Apprenticebuilder had the same thought I was about to post. If the RPL fits rifle and budget, that is the way to go.

 

[russecv58]

it does look like the geometry is off, but from what i can se in the pic, it looks as if your lock isnt in half cock. if its past half cock its supposed to be pushing frizzen open. if its hanging up, i would suggest maybe polishing the frizzen where it contacts the spring, and maybe lubing the screw that holds the frizzen on. ive also ran into a couple locks where the frizzen spring was too strong and had to bend it a bit to get the frizzen to move easier. can you post a pic of it in the half cock position? that would be helpful. :thumbsup:

 

[Stubert]

Your last picture looks like the fly is holding the hammer back, half cock should be the next notch up.

 

[ericrutters]

the second pic is where the lock hangs up its after pulling the trigger the flint does rest clost the frizzen at half cock and im striking about 1/3 down on the frizzen but that screw is hitting the top of the frizzen other than that the lock goes boom very relieably its just that im sure it slows down the lock and makes a lot more noise not to mention the shock that must be going throug the hammer when it hits my frizzen still opens after each shot if your really interested in seeing it i can make a youtube video of the lock working and you can see what its doing thank you for all of the input im sure ill get it resolved with the help of you more experienced bp shooters on the forum

 

[Trot]

I may have misunderstood, [wouldn't be the first time!] I thought he was showing where the screw hits the frizzen when the lock is fired, not in the halfcock position.

 

[Jim Evans]

Here is photo of a Tradition Lock that is working good,compare it to your lock.

 

[ericrutters]

thats exactly what im showing trot good eye the lock works the top jaw screw hits the top of the fizzen as the lock is fired it hits hard enough to throw the fizzen open but im sure im losing speed and spark