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Frog Lube
- Thread starter Billnpatti
- Start date
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AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
Not everything works equally well for everyone. After the soapy water, I dry out with WD-40, then apply Barricade to the bore.
Frog Lube makes a good revolver nipple anti-seize, and grease for internals. On a couple of guns, I'll run a final patch down the bore with Frog Lube gets out the last remaining residue I thought was already scrubbed out, & it makes a good surface coat to repel fingerprints on steel surfaces. I still trust Barricade for preventing rust short term and Rig long term.
Frog Lube makes a good revolver nipple anti-seize, and grease for internals. On a couple of guns, I'll run a final patch down the bore with Frog Lube gets out the last remaining residue I thought was already scrubbed out, & it makes a good surface coat to repel fingerprints on steel surfaces. I still trust Barricade for preventing rust short term and Rig long term.
MosinRob
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2012
- Messages
- 308
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- 0
I just don't trust water-based products for rust prevention. Also straight from their site: Will FrogLube remove petroleum products, oils and grease?
Yes. FrogLube dissolves carbon and petro-chemicals on contact. You should discontinue use of petroleum or other petrochemicals as it will conflict with the optimal performance of FrogLube.
Yes. FrogLube dissolves carbon and petro-chemicals on contact. You should discontinue use of petroleum or other petrochemicals as it will conflict with the optimal performance of FrogLube.
Hello everyone,
Guess it's time for me to put in my two cents worth.
This experience has nothing to do with muzzle loaders.
So I have a Colt Gold Cup Series 80 that was turned into a "race gun" years ago. Tens of thousands of rounds through her. Finally decided to have a smith go through it-new springs, trigger, extractor, almost everything. So take it to the range with hardball loads. Got a number of stovepipes. Got it home and saw the smith was a miser with lubricant. Cleaned and applied Break Free. Much better but still a few stovepipes. About three in 100 rounds.
One of our Deputies comes over and see's my .45 all torn down. Told him about the stovepipes. Pulls out his Series 70 duty gun, has hardly any bluing left on it. It was very smooth. He told me about hearing about Frog Lube from the AR-15 crowd.
So I figured what have I got to lose. Got the paste and liquid, cleaned mine with alcohol and applied the Frog Lube as directed. I thought the heat gun was BS but did it anyway. Assembled and it also felt much better, but the proof would be at the range. So I get 50 230grn hardballs and 50 200grn SWC's lighter loads.
Get to the range and started out with the hardballs. No stovepipes, wow. Go to the SWC's and the same results. Took the gun home and cleanup was much easier. Applied a second application of Frog Lube. Another 250 rounds through it and no stovepipes.
So for my application it worked great. Now have it on a S&W 9mm and a Kimber Pro II .45.
I don't see where it would benefit a ML because it's a different beast. On my Chambers Late Ketland lock, I still use 3 in 1 and it's quick as ever. My Trap shotguns get Ballistol.
My conclusion (your mileage might vary)is that on modern firearms, where there is split second movement of metal, it's a great friction reducer.
While getting my BSME decades ago I took 2 years of metallurgy at Stanford. Had access to very sophisticated testing equipment. I don't have that access anymore so I can't back this up scientifically. Just my personal observations.
Mike C.
Groveland, CA
Guess it's time for me to put in my two cents worth.
This experience has nothing to do with muzzle loaders.
So I have a Colt Gold Cup Series 80 that was turned into a "race gun" years ago. Tens of thousands of rounds through her. Finally decided to have a smith go through it-new springs, trigger, extractor, almost everything. So take it to the range with hardball loads. Got a number of stovepipes. Got it home and saw the smith was a miser with lubricant. Cleaned and applied Break Free. Much better but still a few stovepipes. About three in 100 rounds.
One of our Deputies comes over and see's my .45 all torn down. Told him about the stovepipes. Pulls out his Series 70 duty gun, has hardly any bluing left on it. It was very smooth. He told me about hearing about Frog Lube from the AR-15 crowd.
So I figured what have I got to lose. Got the paste and liquid, cleaned mine with alcohol and applied the Frog Lube as directed. I thought the heat gun was BS but did it anyway. Assembled and it also felt much better, but the proof would be at the range. So I get 50 230grn hardballs and 50 200grn SWC's lighter loads.
Get to the range and started out with the hardballs. No stovepipes, wow. Go to the SWC's and the same results. Took the gun home and cleanup was much easier. Applied a second application of Frog Lube. Another 250 rounds through it and no stovepipes.
So for my application it worked great. Now have it on a S&W 9mm and a Kimber Pro II .45.
I don't see where it would benefit a ML because it's a different beast. On my Chambers Late Ketland lock, I still use 3 in 1 and it's quick as ever. My Trap shotguns get Ballistol.
My conclusion (your mileage might vary)is that on modern firearms, where there is split second movement of metal, it's a great friction reducer.
While getting my BSME decades ago I took 2 years of metallurgy at Stanford. Had access to very sophisticated testing equipment. I don't have that access anymore so I can't back this up scientifically. Just my personal observations.
Mike C.
Groveland, CA
Mike, all that matters, with any of this cleaning/lubing stuff, is if it works for you and gets the results you want. It's quite possible that something else would have solved your issues too, but of course the big problem is finding out what. I've no doubt it works as a lube, of sorts, particularly in modern weapons.
I just have a problem when "spurious" advertising/claims are made for a product. For instance, "seasoning the bore" - my response is 'impossible'. I also have an issue with its apparent ability to "dissolve petroleum products on contact". This has me perplexed as to how a product that has nothing in it that requires an MSDS listing can do that.
.
It just sounds too good to be true.
I just have a problem when "spurious" advertising/claims are made for a product. For instance, "seasoning the bore" - my response is 'impossible'. I also have an issue with its apparent ability to "dissolve petroleum products on contact". This has me perplexed as to how a product that has nothing in it that requires an MSDS listing can do that.
.It just sounds too good to be true.
Bob in iowa
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2009
- Messages
- 20
- Reaction score
- 0
I've been "Un-scientifically" testing Froglube for a few months and so far it's working well for rust protection and cleaning ability. (Plus, it smells good)
We'll see how the test goes.
We'll see how the test goes.
AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
I have an old brass padlock on my side access gate. It's so old it was made in Taiwan instead of China. Every year or so I'd soak it in carb cleaner to free it up from the old lube and accumulated crud that would bind it up.
This last time, I decided that Militec isn't any good for outdoor locks, after having the lock seize up. Fortunately, a squirt of carb cleaner freed it up.
After the cleaning was complete, I lubed up the tumbler and pins with Frog Lube. 13 months later, thru wet winter weather, hot summer weather and several talc-fine dust storms, it opens up as smoothly as brand new.
Did the front door deadbolt this spring, and it's still free and smooth. By now if I had been using graphite, moly or Militec, it would already be beginning to bind up.
This last time, I decided that Militec isn't any good for outdoor locks, after having the lock seize up. Fortunately, a squirt of carb cleaner freed it up.
After the cleaning was complete, I lubed up the tumbler and pins with Frog Lube. 13 months later, thru wet winter weather, hot summer weather and several talc-fine dust storms, it opens up as smoothly as brand new.
Did the front door deadbolt this spring, and it's still free and smooth. By now if I had been using graphite, moly or Militec, it would already be beginning to bind up.
Patocazador
54 Cal.
dikman said:
As Rifleman 1776 stated: "Snake Oil". :stir:
Billnpatti
Cannon
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
- Messages
- 7,340
- Reaction score
- 44
It's been a month since I posted the first posting about Frog Lube. I contacted the makers of Frog Lube about their claims and included their reply in my first posting. About the next day, they contacted me via email and in their very nice letter told me that they would send me a sample of Frog Lube to try for myself. I then proposed a series of scientific tests to them involving a careful comparisons of muzzle velocities from a barrel that had not been treated with Frog Lube and then treating the bore with the Frog Lube and repeating the muzzle velocity test from a properly treated bore to see if treating with Frog Lube gave any signs of having "seasoned" the bore. Some say that the slicker "seasoned" bore will yield lower MV because the ball will move too easily for the breach pressure to rise as high as an untreated bore. Yet, others said that the treated bore, being slicker, will allow the ball to exit at a higher velocity. In either instance, if there is a statisticaly significant difference, one may conclude that the Frog Lube did, in fact, season the bore. I also wanted to photograph the patches used to swab the bore between shots with the idea that if the bore became easier to be cleaned after treating with Frog Lube the patches from a treated bore would have more fouling since it would be less inclined to stick to the Frog Lube treated bore.
Unfortunately, I have not yet heard back from them with regard to my proposed tests and I have not been able conduct the tests because I have not yet received the sample of Frog Lube. As soon as I receive the sample, I will conduct the tests. If anyone knows of a better test for the "seasoning" of the bore or a better way of conducting the tests please let me know. Bare in mind that I will have only a sample (however much that will be I do not know) and not a gallon jug to work with. If anyone thinks this is not a fair test, please let me know. Frog Lube may well be an excellent product for modern guns but my question is how well does it serve the muzzleloading crowd. Is it worth the money for our use?
Unfortunately, I have not yet heard back from them with regard to my proposed tests and I have not been able conduct the tests because I have not yet received the sample of Frog Lube. As soon as I receive the sample, I will conduct the tests. If anyone knows of a better test for the "seasoning" of the bore or a better way of conducting the tests please let me know. Bare in mind that I will have only a sample (however much that will be I do not know) and not a gallon jug to work with. If anyone thinks this is not a fair test, please let me know. Frog Lube may well be an excellent product for modern guns but my question is how well does it serve the muzzleloading crowd. Is it worth the money for our use?
