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Frog Lube

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Billnpatti

Cannon
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A while back, we had a discussion on this forum about a product called Frog Lube. There were some pros and some cons abut it. I wondered if the stuff did what they claimed it would do. there were claims that it "seasoned" the bore of guns in which it was used, it made fouling more easily removed and it rustproofed metal. It sounded too good to be true and I was a skeptic. So, I wanted to see for myself if any of their claims were valid. I got some Frog Lube and gave it a try. I wanted to see if it had any effect on my bore so I devised an experiment to test this "seasoning" claim. First, I fired 10 shots over a chronograph and recorded the data. Then I treated the bore carefully following their directions. Then I fired 10 more shots over a chronograph and recorded the results. Let me stop here and say that I went to extremes to hold all other variables constant and having the Frog Lube as the only variable to effect the velocities. To my amazement, the velocities were measurably different indicating that Frog Lube actually did something in my bore that would make this difference. I am still not willing to say that it "seasoned" my bore but it did something. I am going to say that it "conditioned" my bore.

The change in velocities from the Frog Lube treated bore were approximately 150 fps slower compared to the velocities from the untreated bore. The untreated bore velocities were an average of 1266 fps with a std dev. of 32 fps. The average velocity from the treated bore was 1179 with a std. dev. of 51. The change is obvious. It is also obvious that the Frog Lube treated bore is slicker than the untreated bore which allows the PRB to have less friction to overcome and, thus, to be more easily displaced upon firing. This results in a lower breach pressure and, consequently, slower velocities. Ergo, Frog Lube does actually do something to the bore to make it slicker. This change is measurable and verifiable. I choose to call this conditioning rather than seasoning.

It would have seemed that the greater std. dev. from the treated bore velocities would make the treated bore less accurate. I found quite the opposite. Of course this is based on only one target but the group size from the treated bore was tighter than the group from the treated bore. When I measure groups for comparison, I prefer to use a method called Maximum Mean Radius (MMR). This method minimizes the effect of the occasional flier and yields a better number for group size comparison. The MMR for the untreated bore was 0.75 inches and the MMR for the treated bore was 0.52 inches. Since this is data from only two targets, one before and one after treatment, it is not a good statistical comparison but it does seem to indicate that the treated bore is at least as accurate as an untreated bore and quite possibly more accurate.

Another claim was that Frog Lube made dirt and fouling more easily removed from a Frog Lube treated surface. I gave this some thought and was unable to come up with any easily quantifiable method that would be a subjective rather than an objective evaluation. I could come up with no easy way to do this other than weighing each wiping patch before and after wiping the bore. Way too much work. So, I settled for a method that was very subjective but I determined that I would be very careful in making my observations and evaluations. So, to determine if Frog Lube made fouling removal easier, I carefully saved all of my between shot wiping patches in the order in which I used them and then looked at each patch to see if I could see any observable difference in how much fouling was on each patch. The fact was that there was a very obvious difference in the amount of fouling on the patches from the Frog Lube treated bore when compared to the amount of fouling on the patches from the untreated bore. The patches from the Frog Lube treated bore had obviously more fouling on them when compared to the patches from the untreated bore. This confirmed that a Frog Lube treated bore is more easily cleaned than an untreated bore. Let me say here that each patch was run down the bore with one stroke and removed in one single stroke such that the only variable, when comparing them, was the Frog Lube treatment.

Another claim that is made my the Frog Lube people is that it provides good rustproofing. I was very skeptical about this claim. I have tried several other products that made such claims but were not actual gun oil type products. These have long been the only products that I considered to provide real rust protection. So, I am sort of like a person from Missouri in that when someone makes such a claim, I say "Show me!". A week after treating my bore with Frog Lube, I ran a clean patch down my bore to see if I could find any rust. It came out clean as a hound's tooth, not a sign of rust. After another shooting session in which I used Frog Lube as a rust preventive in my bore, I checked again and found no rust in my bore.

My conclusion from all of this is that Frog Lube does exactly what it says it will do. I don't know what the secret is but Frog Lube just works. And it smells pretty good, too.
 
I'm guessing the secret is "frog," but how? And is this not the stuff that was water based!?

Also not so clear on the "it's great 'cause my velocity is lower as there's less resistance/pressure" logic... Help me out with THAT one please.
 
Thank's Bill,
Sounds like a well thought out experiment.
Thanks for your time and sharing.
An Happy Birthday ya ole coot, :wink:
 
You misquoted me. Here is what I said:

"It is also obvious that the Frog Lube treated bore is slicker than the untreated bore which allows the PRB to have less friction to overcome and, thus, to be more easily displaced upon firing. This results in a lower breach pressure and, consequently, slower velocities."

I'll take it that you were just paraphrasing. The quotation marks were a bit misleading.

The logic is that with less friction, the ball begins moving forward more easily. It, therefore, does not allow the breach pressure to rise as much as would a ball that tended to remain in place longer due to a greater coefficient of friction within the bore.

I don't know if you ever played with a pea shooter as a kid but if you have, you will remember that when you got a pea that was just a bit smaller than the rest, it didn't go as far because you couldn't get as much pressure behind it. Velocity is dependent on pressure so if the ball moves more easily, the pressure does not build as much before the ball exits the muzzle and, thus, you have a lower velocity. Conversly, if you have an obstruction (high coefficient of friction), you will have a very high breach pressure. High coefficient of friction, higher breach pressure. Low coefficient of friction, lower breach pressure. This, naturally, assumes control of all other variables. Does this make sense? :hmm:
 
I believe that Dutch Schoultz talks about this phenomenon also, either in his system or on his website. At first I didn't grasp the logic, until I gave it a good think. :doh:
 
It is still just repackaged 'food grade' oil.
Same stuff we use to lube food processing machinery.

You are paying $5 per ounce for something you can buy for $14 per gallon.
 
Yeah, I know they say it's edible. I've never tried it but a lot of people swear by it, especially the "tactical" types. I've pretty much been using Ballistol exclusively for awhile now, and it seems to work well for me.
 
Ah, perhaps so but would it smell like Ben Gay? :haha: Frog Lube not only does what it says on your guns, but is also a nice air freshener for your gun safe. Ya just can't beat that with a stick. :hatsoff:
 
No doubt about it, Ballistol is great stuff. How do you use it? As a patch lube? As a cleaner and lubricant on your guns? If you use it on your patches as a lube, do you do it the way Dutch Schoultz recommends or apply it to the patch undiluted? Personally, I love the stuff. I have used it undiluted as a patch lube and I have been using it diluted 1:10 in water to use as a cleaner for my guns but as soon as my present supply of the 1:10 mixture is used up, I am going to try some of the Moose Milk that Dutch recommends. It is essentially the same stuff only with some Murphy's Oil Soap added. I am expecting good results with it.
 
Actually Dutch's moosemilk is mostly water,even though he calls his cleaning system 99% waterless?
His moosemilk really does clean well and works good as a patch lube.
 
I've just recently gotten Dutch's system and haven't been able to really implement it yet. I had been using "Muzzleloaders Originals Precision Lube 2000" patches in my percussion with Triple 7 but when I used it in my flintlock with Goex it seemed to make a gunky buildup I had a hard time cleaning with hot soapy water.

I tried unlubed cotton patches with a little straight Ballistol and some were hitting the ground on fire. I've got a lot to learn and need to get into the Accuracy System and get it figured out, but I can't get out as much as I'd like to. Until then I will continue to glean the experience of all you guys on the forum.
 
I was a strong believer in "Slicker is Better" til I ran my experiments to get very constant amounts of lubrication in my patching strips.
I made about five different mixes that ran from quite oily to almost dry (non-oily). Much to my very sincere surprise I found as the I used an increasingly dryer strip after each five shot experiment the groups got tighter and tighter as the patches became less oily.
I figure the slick patch lube has the ball halfway down range before to powder has done its thing.
This gives you the same effect as too light a powder charge because much of the powder is wasted after the ball is gone.
Repeating the experiment gave me the same results.
 
Dutch, I have never tried your exact formula. I mixed up some (I thought) was per yer instructions but results were lousy. Later I learned that the 'water soluable oil' I had purchased from NAPA wasn't wso at all but sumptin' else. I have not been able to find real wso in small quantities and am not eager to buy a 55 gal. drum to experiment with. I might have to go to a machine shop and pester them to give or sell me some.
 
Dutch Schoultz said:
I was a strong believer in "Slicker is Better" til I ran my experiments to get very constant amounts of lubrication in my patching strips.
I made about five different mixes that ran from quite oily to almost dry (non-oily). Much to my very sincere surprise I found as the I used an increasingly dryer strip after each five shot experiment the groups got tighter and tighter as the patches became less oily.
I figure the slick patch lube has the ball halfway down range before to powder has done its thing.
This gives you the same effect as too light a powder charge because much of the powder is wasted after the ball is gone.
Repeating the experiment gave me the same results.

Dutch, that slicker is better/worse notion has been around a long time. Personally, I don't have atheory on it and have to rely on others, like you to make my choices.
But, I'll relay a story and observation I made relative to the issue.
We used to shoot almost every off-weekend at the Friendship range. A gathering of others were always there as well.
One of them was Webb Terry, long known as one of the winningest ml shooters ever in these modern days. He was also an experimenter and innovator.
I was there when he was trying his first batches of teflon lubed patch cloth.
Results of his ticking teflon lubed patches were amzaing. Dry to the touch and genuine 'X' finders.
One day he chronographed to compare other lubes with his teflon cloth. Surprisingly his teflon, which felt really slickery, gave lower velocities than other popular lubes.
Dunno what to conclude from that other than his results seem to speak for themselves.
For the record, most of his experimentation and testing was done using a heavy barreled bench rifle with good peep sights.
 
The simple fact remains that there are a limited few of very good shooters.
I mean some guy's are just excellent marksmen.
Drawing conclusions from those top notch shooters and trying to apply those to the average guy just won't work.
Chances are very good that if I took my best rifle, my best PRB combo and handed it to one of these guy's they would shoot it better than me and very likely win a match that I'd only place in with the same rifle and combo.
 
Rifleman,
You tried ballistol and were'nt happy as a rust preventative,I think.That's what is recommended by Dutch now for wso.
 
necchi said:
The simple fact remains that there are a limited few of very good shooters.
I mean some guy's are just excellent marksmen.
Drawing conclusions from those top notch shooters and trying to apply those to the average guy just won't work.
Chances are very good that if I took my best rifle, my best PRB combo and handed it to one of these guy's they would shoot it better than me and very likely win a match that I'd only place in with the same rifle and combo.


We may be going :eek:ff here but I'll respectfully disagree with you.
A rifle that doesn't group will not group no matter who is shooting it. An average shooter having the opportunity to use an accurate rifle will get that shooter better results than he is accustomed to.
Webb Terry was a note taker. If his results did not improve with teflon over his previous lube he would have known and not promoted the teflon.
His use of a heavy bench rest rifle and peep sights eliminated most of the variables.
 
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