Front lock bolt blocking ramrod

[Robert Kiebel]

I finally finished my full stock flinter and forgot about the front lock bolt blocking the ramrod hole. I can only think of making a false front lock screw by cutting it off. Any advise would shirly be appreciated.

 

[Walkingeagle]

How much of the bolt is blocking the RR channel?
Walk

 

[Redmoon]

Mine ended up the same way. So I'm on the hunt for a curly maple dowel to make a for show rod to leave in the rifle and im making a loading rod out of brass.

 

[Billy Boy]

I scrape-tapered the South end of the ramrod on my 40 long rifle till it cleared OK. I made a small ‘palm saver’ to take the poke out of loading

 

[cullen1780]

I had a partial blockage. I was able to taper the ramrod and file a notch in the screw to allow the ramrod to pass.

 

[Rifleman1776]

file a notch in the screw

Not an unusual feature on many rifles. Of course, the screw must be put back with the notch facing the right direction (usually up) everytime. Our real gunsmiths here can comment better on this issue.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
That happens on almost half of my fowling guns because I make them so slim and choose barrels with thick breeches. If the lock bolt only partially blocks the rod, turn a portion of the bolt in the middle thinner. Don't notch it, turn it on all sides so it does not have to always be returned in exactly the same way. If it is an 8-32 bolt, it can be easily reduced to a size 6 bolt stock. That may solve the problem but you have to remember to remove the ramrod before removing the lock bolt. If that is not enough, taper the end of the rod. If your bolt goes right through the middle of the ramrod hole, you may need to do what you originally suggested.

dave

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I agree with Dave. Turn a waist and don't cut a notch. A tapered rod along with that will hopefully sove the problem.

 

[Robert Kiebel]

Thank everyone for your suggestions. The bolt blocks the ramrod channel by about half. The good thing is that is the only screw up I made on the rifle. 153+ hours and $1000.00+ dollars.

 

[Kansas Jake]

If you have to cut the bolt down to close to half, go ahead and cut it for clearance along with narrowing the ramrod. Do it so the screw is clocked. That way you will only be off 90 degrees.

 

[oreclan]

I had a partial blockage. I was able to taper the ramrod and file a notch in the screw to allow the ramrod to pass.

I have done the same. Notch the screw and mark the screw head on the side of the notch, so when you have to remove the screw you can relocate it easily.

 

[Belleville]

Have had this problem on a couple of custom made rifles, On the first one the gunsmith had filed a notch in the front screw, which meant you had to get the screw in the right position so the RR would pass, which was a pain. I discovered there was enough of the lock bolt to where I could turn the bolt down all around at the RR location to where its position doesn't matter. On the second one I put in a wooden plug on the sideplate side of the hole just short of the RR and installed a short fake (pan head sheet metal) screw, On the lock side installed a lock bolt with loctite and cut it off just short of the RR. The rear screw holds the lock on to the rifle and the front stud stops the torque of the lock. Hope this is clear. Your mileage may vary!

 

[fjrdoc]

The rifle that I'm building now had he same problem. It may not be a 18th century fix, but I soldered a "spring" on the bottom flat of the barrel to direct the ramrod under the front lock bolt. The ramrod slides under the bolt and as an added benefit doesn't rattle around in the channel.

 

[Robert Kiebel]

Thank you guys! I was able to file the front lock bolt enough to clear the ramrod and the bolt is still plenty strong. Love US steel!

 

[Eric Krewson]

I notched the bolt on my first build, seems like I always forgot to remove the ramrod before I pulled the lock for cleaning. I would turn the front lock bolt and put a ding in the ramrod.

I wasp waisted the bolt and everything worked out just fine.

 

[simonbeans]

Been there, done that more than once. No big deal.

 

[Col. Batguano]

You can also taper the RR tip. Put a little chamfer on the front of it to help direct the RR toward the bottom of the hole. If you have the wood to spare, you can also enlarge the RR hole. That won't show under the entry pipe or the lower forearm.

In order, I would try the following;
Chamfer the RR tip
enlarge the RR hole. ---Make sure you have the spare wood to accommodate it though!
Groove the front lock bolt / change the lock bolt from a #8 to a # 6

 

[Grenadier1758]

Because lock bolts may be different lengths, I use smaller front lock bolts than the rear. That is one way to tell which bolt belongs where.

 

[flntlokr]

I finally finished my full stock flinter and forgot about the front lock bolt blocking the ramrod hole. I can only think of making a false front lock screw by cutting it off. Any advise would shirly be appreciated.

I just flattened one side of the ramrod until it clears the screw. Not a problem to turn the rod a bit to get past.