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"Frozen" Nipple

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Joined
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I know what your thinking...."Not in this heatwave!"

But I'm talking about an old nipple on an old gun - 150 years or so.

What has proven for you the best agent to use to try to loosen up such - Kroil?
 
ive found CLP, WD-40, and ballistol to all work well in these situations. i use CLP because i have it around.

a good long soak in a very light penetrating oil should help you out. (with furniture removed of coarse)
 
Kroil, Time. The only two things you need to know. It did not get "frozen " over night so don't be in a hurry to get ot out. Let it soak in kroil for several days if needed.
 
I've never used it on guns (yet), but PB Blaster is the best for auto parts. And, it's available anywhere. Good luck!

Jim
 
Yup.


Just to be clear - the way heat works is that you heat the area AROUND the nipple, so it expands, and "breaks free" from the nipple itself.

Heating both nipple and barrel with just cause them to expand and contract together - no gain.

And yes, soaking = time. No way around it. Don't get in a hurry. That's a pretty surefire way to get a damaged nipple.
 
Just got to add be 100% shure there is no load in the barrel
before you do anything else. Lots of those old guns were left
loaded.
l
 
OK, looks like I'll try Kroil and time, which I got plenty of)and see what happens before I bring out the heavy artillery andtry the PB Blaster.

And yes, Ol Vern, it is unloaded but thanks for mentioning the safety aspect. With any type of gun there's just no such thing as being too careful.

jdkerstetter - Why? To put on a new nipple so I can shoot it.
 
Marc Adamchek said:
With any type of gun there's just no such thing as being too careful.
Being too careful would be not firing 150 year old guns but if you must....

Why? To put on a new nipple so I can shoot it.
The absolute product best and fastest for breaking parts free that are rusted fast is oil of wintergreen. Your pharmacist may slip you some. Best penatrating oil, bar none.

I hope this is not a 150 year old historical or heirloom piece you are attempting to fire.

If the nipple is rusted in place, what else is wrong? Rust in the breech?

Are you prepared to make a nipple when the antique one doesn't have modern threads?

I know, your gun, your business.

Gotta love those guys on Pawn Stars...."It's worth more if you can shoot it" :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Good luck, J.D.
 
Gotta love those guys on Pawn Stars...."It's worth more if you can shoot it"

Can't speak for the pawn business but certainly a gun is worth more to me if I can shoot it. I'm not really interested in collecting things to hang on my wall, especially because the wife won't agree with my decorating.:nono:
I recently posted the range reports for shooting an original Hall rifle dated 1826 and a M1842 musked dated 1845. Neither one blew up in my face - a calculated risk - and the experience was very rewarding, much more so than shooting my Pedersoli Bess.
 
To each their own. Not saying all old guns shouldn't be shot. I understand calculated risk.

It is just a shame when historical or heirloom quality things are risked for the potential entertainment of the current owner.

I know everybody doesn't feel the way I do but am glad some do. I feel that those who chooses to own historical items should treat them as if they are merely the custodians of them and preserve them for future generations to enjoy.

Not all old things are historical and the OP has indicated whether this one is or not. It's his, he will do as he pleases. I just hope he takes the proper precations to reduce the risk to himself, others and to his gun. 'Nuf said.

Enjoy, J.D.
 
If I had a very old piece that I thought might be up to the task of shooting it would drive me nuts until I knew one way or anouther. I don't think I would shoot an old gun myself though. I would fire it from a bench and use a string to pull the triger from a safe distance the first time or two.
 
I shoot a gun that is 170 years old and she does great!!! My wife shoots a smith carbine that was made in 1863 and it is a tack driver. I know other guys who shot original Remington 1863 contract rifles AKA zouave, Mississippi rifles and all kinds of guns that were used in the civil war. Believe it or not they shoot GREAT and they are made better than the repro guns. Granted we are not stuffing them full of powder but I am more than sure the ones I have and the ones I have seen on the firing line will stand up to the full service loads that they were made to shoot. I do agree however that a frozen nipple MAY come with other problems but as long as the breach plug is still tight up on the barrel I would not hesitate at all to get that cone out, replace it with a new one and get to the range.
 
i worked in an automotive machineshop for years, and it was my job to remove broken bolts. i tried everything that was avalible to me, but and old machinist showed me a trick one day, and i was amazed. you heat up the area around the bolt, or nipple in you'r case, and use candle wax. just melt it around work, wax will draw in the crevice, were most oil's wick away, at that time i did'nt have access to kroil, but since then i have, and i can say it work's better than anything out there. but wax is just another option! another thing with the wax is do you'r work before it has time to completly cool of, or it will harden as wax does, and make it harder to get out. but that's nothing a little heat won't take care of. and speaking of heat, don't get it red hot, that just makes matters worse. :grin:
 
Kroil is good stuff.
Any light penetrating oil should work with time.
A good tap with a hammer every day will help too. The vibrations help the oil to penetrate.
 
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