Fusil de Chasse ... options & ideas?

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I have seen that Rice offers a light weight smoothbore barrel . It is made out of 4140 steel which allows it to be lighter than a regular smoothbore barrel. As to all of them having slight differences, remember they were hand made.
I have three original fdc barrel. One from St. Etienne, two from Tulle. Dimensionally they are very close. More close than I would have expected. Caliber varies from about .61 to .64
They have a profile that can be recognized.
Larry Horrigan, in Michigan makes an exact copy of one from my collection. Along with numerous other patterns taken off original French arms
 
Not trying to hurt feelings,, just being honest.
I've never seen a Centermark that was historically accurate. I can pick a half dozen thing off the top of my head before I even see it.
Anthony Palazski even said these guns were never meant to be. They were filling a niche that needed filled.

And you earned your degree in historical archaeology where ?
Did you know that the least liked person at any historical event or discussion is a stitch counter .
 
And you earned your degree in historical archaeology where ?
Did you know that the least liked person at any historical event or discussion is a stitch counter .
What are your credentials?

Oh, you must be one of those, "if it is made of wood, carbon steel, leather, and natural fabric, it must be historically accurate because someone must have made one like this," crowd. I guess to you a toga could be a rifle shirt and a .32 "Crockett" rifle is an accurate representation of the average gun from 1755 to 1900.

What is historically accurate is historically accurate,,, if something you have isn't and you get butt hurt over it ,, that is your problem. I fail to see how pointing out that something isn't an accurate recreation of a known object is a bad thing. Much less how it makes them a target for comments like yours.

Maybe you don't like the "stitch counter," but some of us appreciate the knowledge of others as we strive to learn and make our representations and experiences of the period better and more accurate.
 
I usually don't count stitches unless I am asked. One way to improve our presentation is to subject ourselves to such an evaluation. That is one of the reasons I participate in the juried Trade Faire in April at Fort de Chartres. It is a challenge to meet the criteria of the event and quite satisfying to pass the jury's inspection.

Of course, if I am counting stitches, then I am open to the same scrutiny. I must admit that I have items in my outfit that can be put to question. Those, I put aside in April.
 
And you earned your degree in historical archaeology where ?
Did you know that the least liked person at any historical event or discussion is a stitch counter .
I must have hit a nerve
How about,
Crack a book. Handle originals,build guns for years with a good mentor, build two guns for the man that wrote the book on them.Be privy to information by others who've published works on said topic,and collect these arms. Have friendships with said individuals. The amount of information gained like that cannot be purchased or found in a library.
Have some ability to recognize all these details and nuances and transfer them to a piece of wood and steel .

A degree doesn't impress alot of people unless your an employer looking to hire.
As to being a stich counter, I could be. With clothing, gear, or guns I do not say anything until asked. Then its honest and swift.
Good day.
 
And you earned your degree in historical archaeology where ?
Did you know that the least liked person at any historical event or discussion is a stitch counter .
That’s awful unfair. At some point even the most dedicated stitch counter breaks down. The facts are people will always reach some point where they can’t get more HC then what they are.
However that said there are many of us who try and we have to accept the limits of our pocket books.
I like my Centermark and I will gladly take it to events and treks. But I admit it’s a misses the mark
So is my tent, sunforger snd not linen.
My tin pots are silver soldered no lead.. I’m real ok with that one. All my knifes don’t make the grade, and I have too much cotton
Still I hand sew, strike a light when I smoke a pipe and eat meals based on dried and salted food, no canned or ice chest.
If I was buying again I would go with a better kit then Centermark, but in the 90s it was the best I could find.
We do what we can and admit the fails.
Today there are better choices then a Centermark
 
And just for the record, the Centermarks are well made,reliable arms.
Many a reenactor started with one.
Actually, at some events I frequent, I see more British types using them more than the French side.Figure that one out....
For those that don't know. They officially went out of business a year or so ago. So now they are "collectable "...
 
Recently completed.
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Lmao
I'm glad you're a better builder, and historian of these guns than you are a picture poster... lol 😄
 
I have a Centermark that I had to have when I was 14. I didnt know any better and agree they're probably not accurate but I loved the lines and it was my second "build". I did some things right and a few things wrong but I hammered a few turkeys a lot of squirrels, dove, quail, rabbits and several deer with a round ball. Even won some 16 yd trap matches against modern guns...mine is 20 and it was a solid 22ish yard turkey gun and out to 50 deer gun. Haven't shot it much lately but it's still one of my favorites to get out and carry around the house. When I was in college my dad, who is a builder, re did it for me and since its not historically accurate anyway, he took some liberties which I like...I really like the detail he did on the turtle and since it was a hunting gun he added a rear sight.
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Ha ha!
I have the worst time posting images here. Thanks.
Alex A few questions. Was the trigger guard inlet into the stock? Was the sideplate inlet into the stock? I never really knew when I built mine 30 some years ago. The info I had at the time was that it was less time consuming when they were made to just screw them on so that is how I did mine. The only modification I did to mine was to flatten the comb a little. That "hump" was a real cheek slapper! Thanks
 
Alex A few questions. Was the trigger guard inlet into the stock? Was the sideplate inlet into the stock? I never really knew when I built mine 30 some years ago. The info I had at the time was that it was less time consuming when they were made to just screw them on so that is how I did mine. The only modification I did to mine was to flatten the comb a little. That "hump" was a real cheek slapper! Thanks
On original fdc, the trigger guard was inlet as well as the sideplate, all I have seen have had carving around the lock panels and barrel tang, no evidence of a rear sight, and a simple barley corn, sight.
 
I've recently gotten interested in the French Fusil de Chasse smoothbore and have been poking around for reference information and quite possibly adding one the the collection.

I'm on the search for what appears to be a key reference (in the WTB area) and have been searching the interwebs. All that said, who makes a close replica? I've read about Centermark (apparently out of business) and understand there are others currently available. While I don't think that I'm up for building one, I could likely handle the final finishing.

Suggestions as to what out on the market - new or gently used?
My Fusil was built about 6 or 7 years ago by Tennessee Valley Muzzleloaders…Matt Avance. I had it made with the extra grade curly maple stock. Beautiful gun, shoots amazingly well. Nice fast ignition. It’s taken a few geese, rabbits, lots of doves and many many clay pigeons.

The wait time is getting longer, I used to be able to get a gun in about 6 to 7 months. They just sent me a sweet little .40 calibre flinter and it took 11 months for it to be completed and arrive…
 
Part #2 :)

May I suggest a kit from Kiebler (sic), they are reasonably priced, have excellent quality components, much of the stock shaping and inletting is done at the factory, and any soldering can be done at the factory as well for a nominal fee.
What ever kit that you buy and assemble, take your time with, make it your own, and it will be historically accurate.
Good luck with your search,
Flinter
Wait…what???

Has Kibler started to offer Fusil kits?
 
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