Fusil de Chasse ... options & ideas?

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I don't think so. There's talk about a colonial style fowling piece, though. I haven't checked out the latest news on its development or production, however.
I know it's been a while, but yes Kibler is offering a fowler kit that closely follows the lines a lock of a Fusil de Chasse and comes in choice of 16 ga. or 20 ga.., it's starting at about $1250.00
 
And to Alexander I offer my apology for my apparently rude reply, in retrospect we all have our opinions, and sometimes they conflict, having too many years to remember of historical reenacting and too many instances of seeing good folks trying to break into the hobby or lifestyle get discouraged, even driven away by "stitch counters" pointing out the flaws in their dress or gear in rather less than delicate ways when it could be handled in a better manner.
As far a guns, knives, cookware and such being absolutely historically correct or camp gear and guns being out of place geographically, it's not always wrong, Most guns and knives made leading up to the industrial revolution were hand made in cottage industries and while they followed along the same lines they were not exactly the same in many different ways, people moved or they adopted stuff from other places, the French Fusil de Chasse for example were a favorite of the Indians that fought for the French, and who furnished them with the arms, but they also found favor with Rogers Rangers and other British Militia units as well as Civilians further south into the Colonies mostly because they were light weight, accurate, and reliable, were easier on powder and lead.
Of course, these are not excuses for my rudeness, they are reasons why I have my opinions, so for what it's worth, sorry.
 
Love the Fusil de Chasse ...here are a few ive made ... Funny ...The Centermark version isn't perfectly H.C. but its not off by that much ...some folks really cracking on it ! Geesh !!
 

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And to Alexander I offer my apology for my apparently rude reply, in retrospect we all have our opinions, and sometimes they conflict, having too many years to remember of historical reenacting and too many instances of seeing good folks trying to break into the hobby or lifestyle get discouraged, even driven away by "stitch counters" pointing out the flaws in their dress or gear in rather less than delicate ways when it could be handled in a better manner.
As far a guns, knives, cookware and such being absolutely historically correct or camp gear and guns being out of place geographically, it's not always wrong, Most guns and knives made leading up to the industrial revolution were hand made in cottage industries and while they followed along the same lines they were not exactly the same in many different ways, people moved or they adopted stuff from other places, the French Fusil de Chasse for example were a favorite of the Indians that fought for the French, and who furnished them with the arms, but they also found favor with Rogers Rangers and other British Militia units as well as Civilians further south into the Colonies mostly because they were light weight, accurate, and reliable, were easier on powder and lead.
Of course, these are not excuses for my rudeness, they are reasons why I have my opinions, so for what it's worth, sorry.
Sorry, but most smoothbore guns to include FDCs were cranked out of armories made to pattern pieces. It could be logically stated that longrifles were made in cottage shops, but certainly not fowling pieces, trade guns or muskets. Privately made fowlers did exist, but nowhere near the volumes of the standard types.
 
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Kibler is offering a full up English export grade fowler kit, which looks nothing like a Fusil de Chasse.
LOL, It seems that one doesn't have to say much on this smoothbore sub forum to bring out the spoilers, but Clark's post is technically correct, Kibler does call it's kit an English Export Grade Fowler.
However, the stock, lock, Barrel, and basic furniture has a definite hint of French design traits in it, the kit allows for a variety of small modifications to make it into Fusil de Chasse, English Trade Gun, or New England Colonial Fowler if that's your thing.
While I may not be an expert like some of the folks here appear to be, but I'm pretty good at keeping an open mind.
 
LOL, It seems that one doesn't have to say much on this smoothbore sub forum to bring out the spoilers, but Clark's post is technically correct, Kibler does call it's kit an English Export Grade Fowler.
However, the stock, lock, Barrel, and basic furniture has a definite hint of French design traits in it, the kit allows for a variety of small modifications to make it into Fusil de Chasse, English Trade Gun, or New England Colonial Fowler if that's your thing.
While I may not be an expert like some of the folks here appear to be, but I'm pretty good at keeping an open mind.
Having an open mind is irrelevant. The English had their own styles that largely did not overlap with styles from the continent. The locks are very different, the stock shapes are different, even the barrels are. Earlier in the trade gun era, the English did make some trade guns in the form if the FDC/FDT but Jim’s fowler is no such creature. Might as well say a Brown Bess looks just like a Charleville.
It says volumes about a person when they call facts “spoilers.”
 
Having an open mind is irrelevant. The English had their own styles that largely did not overlap with styles from the continent. The locks are very different, the stock shapes are different, even the barrels are. Earlier in the trade gun era, the English did make some trade guns in the form if the FDC/FDT but Jim’s fowler is no such creature. Might as well say a Brown Bess looks just like a Charleville.
It says volumes about a person when they call facts “spoilers.”
Thank you very much for taking the time to try to correct my historical failings my friend, but sadly it would appear that I am not easily impressed with the academics of over valuing small details that actually don't matter to most people, However I do understand that some folks set allot of store in absolute accuracy of some facts and while I respect their opinion, I'm more of a mind that when it comes to historical accuracy, close enough is good enough.
That said, if we can agree to disagree on some things that are really not earth shattering we might enjoy having a beer together and exchanging ideas about stuff.
 
Thank you very much for taking the time to try to correct my historical failings my friend, but sadly it would appear that I am not easily impressed with the academics of over valuing small details that actually don't matter to most people, However I do understand that some folks set allot of store in absolute accuracy of some facts and while I respect their opinion, I'm more of a mind that when it comes to historical accuracy, close enough is good enough.
That said, if we can agree to disagree on some things that are really not earth shattering we might enjoy having a beer together and exchanging ideas about stuff.
Well then, stop putting forth falsehoods. You do know what knowingly putting forth false information is called? Doncha?
 
Well then, stop putting forth falsehoods. You do know what knowingly putting forth false information is called? Doncha?
OK, this is getting a bit ridiculous and tiring, First off I didn't give any false information, what I did was offer my opinions based on my 60+ years of experience with muzzle loading firearms and 40 + years of reenacting 18th. century American history, that we may view things differently is a given, but it's not an excuse for stating that someone is putting out false information.
Now, if want to continue this foolish bickering over highly disputable facts then you'll have to find someone who enjoys an argument, personally I don't have the time or the inclination to do so, it ain't going to be me.
BTW, you may want to think about putting me on your ignore list 'cause I'm sure I'll be posting more in the future that you don't agree with.
 
OK, this is getting a bit ridiculous and tiring, First off I didn't give any false information, what I did was offer my opinions based on my 60+ years of experience with muzzle loading firearms and 40 + years of reenacting 18th. century American history, that we may view things differently is a given, but it's not an excuse for stating that someone is putting out false information.
Now, if want to continue this foolish bickering over highly disputable facts then you'll have to find someone who enjoys an argument, personally I don't have the time or the inclination to do so, it ain't going to be me.
BTW, you may want to think about putting me on your ignore list 'cause I'm sure I'll be posting more in the future that you don't agree with.
60 and 40 years of getting things wrong does not make your points any more valid. You claimed that the Kibler English fowler looks like a French hunting gun.
 
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Give Larry Horrigan a call, he builds historically accurate trade guns. I have an American fowler he built. You won't be disappointed.
 

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I don't think I ever saw one with a screw in front of the trigger guard bow.
That's how early fowlers were done.
Was the trigger guard inlet into the stock? Was the sideplate inlet into the stock?
Both were inlet ...

To make it a true to form FdC 'gun of the hunt' from Tulle, go for:
  • 44+" tapered octagonal to round barrel of a single wedding band transition, tapered facets on last few inches of octagonal
  • 62-cal or +
  • Walnut stock, no extra wood on it than absolutely necessary, trim, trim, trim ... and light; should weight < 7-pounds when done
  • Brass barleycorn front sight ~4" back from the muzzle
  • Deep ballustered wrist
  • Tang screw up from the forward loop of trigger guard
  • Flat-faced banana-shaped lock with faceted pan
  • Iron hardware, 'S'-shaped sideplate
  • All metal finished in French grey
 
That's how early fowlers were done.

Both were inlet ...

To make it a true to form FdC 'gun of the hunt' from Tulle, go for:
  • 44+" tapered octagonal to round barrel of a single wedding band transition, tapered facets on last few inches of octagonal
  • 62-cal or +
  • Walnut stock, no extra wood on it than absolutely necessary, trim, trim, trim ... and light; should weight < 7-pounds when done
  • Brass barleycorn front sight ~4" back from the muzzle
  • Deep ballustered wrist
  • Tang screw up from the forward loop of trigger guard
  • Flat-faced banana-shaped lock with faceted pan
  • Iron hardware, 'S'-shaped sideplate
  • All metal finished in French grey
Good advice. I will caveat the lock advice with this. The lock should look something like the first picture and not the last.
 

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