I recently purchased a Farmingdale 1863, 54cal and when I make paper cartridges for it with 60 grains BP, I have a gap of about 1/8" or more to the breech block. The chamber is long in this gun, I don't know if this is normal for the Farmingdales. In all the voutube videos I have watched of people making paper cartridges, no one has mentioned this, other than to find out how deep the chamber is. Also, if I just insert a bullet, and pour in 60 gr of powder, I will have an air gap also, but maybe not an ignition problem as the powder is exposed directly to the spark. I want to take the gun to the range, but want to make functional paper cartridges first. Does the gap matter?
Gap from breech block to paper cartridge in Shiloh Sharps 1863
- Thread starter robbd258
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@Phil Coffins on here loads his with round ball and loose powder and reports excellent groups!
I’d say the gap doesn’t matter as long as the cap in the cartridge. But to do do, if you need to pull the cartridge back from the throat, that could degrade accuracy.
@dave951 on here is one of our resident Sharps experts, and I’m sure he’ll weigh in!
I’d say the gap doesn’t matter as long as the cap in the cartridge. But to do do, if you need to pull the cartridge back from the throat, that could degrade accuracy.
@dave951 on here is one of our resident Sharps experts, and I’m sure he’ll weigh in!
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Is your rifle a military model or a sporting rifle. The sporting Shiloh will have a longer chamber.
I just spoke to Kirk a Shiloh, and he told me that the gap is no problem. Thank you for responding to my post, any recommendations you have are welcome as I am new to these rifles.
Any experience loading a bullet and pouring powder behind it? I do plan on measuring the dose, and Kirk did warn me that being sloppy can blow the forearm off the gun.
Any experience loading a bullet and pouring powder behind it? I do plan on measuring the dose, and Kirk did warn me that being sloppy can blow the forearm off the gun.
Seat a bullet in the chamber far enough to engage the rifling. Measure from the base of the bullet to the rear of the chamber and add for how much the cartridge overlaps the base off the bullet. That becomes your cartridge length and brings the tail end of the cartridge up to the face of the breach block which gives better ignition. Pour your 60 grain charge and follow it with a cardboard wad to keep the powder to the rear of the cartridge. An air space from the wad to the base of the bullet is not a problem. Another option is to use Charlie Hahn's pre made cardboard tubes instead of making cartridges. However, they are made to be used with a ringtail bullet.
The gap is not a problem other than if it's too large, ignition may suffer.
As for loading loose powder, you "can" do it, but why? If you're sloppy in pouring the loose powder, any spillage can migrate a bit and maybe blow the forearm off. That happened historically. Best path is plan to either make cartridges or use Charlie's Tubes and be happy.
As for loading loose powder, you "can" do it, but why? If you're sloppy in pouring the loose powder, any spillage can migrate a bit and maybe blow the forearm off. That happened historically. Best path is plan to either make cartridges or use Charlie's Tubes and be happy.
How about making cartridges without attaching the bullet? I had seen a reenactor video where they suggested that this was done in the past. I can imagine it would be easier than anything short of the Hahn tubes.
Mine is a sporting rifle. I do want a saddle gun, but haven't found a Shiloh I can afford at the moment. Any feedback on other brands?
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Having worked on and shot a few different makes of replica Sharps as well as originals I find the Shiloh Sharps superior to the imports. A bit more money but you don’t have to spend more money on sending them off for modifications. This custom sporting model was shot with 100 grains of powder for many shots with no issues.
2439 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
2439 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
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That's certainly an option. Using Charlie's tubes is just a lot less time consuming. Some people enjoy making paper cartridges and the authenticity angle. That went out the window for me when Charlie came out with the tubes. Unless your shooting an original or a Garrett repro, the Sharps itself is not authentic either.
Here's something else to consider when looking at loose bullets and powder in a Sharps. A cartridge allows you to seat the bullet in the throat at the rifling, loose bullets and powder, not so much. Ideally, when using the Christmas Tree style Sharps bullets, you want that first ring (nearest the nose) to just fit into the rifling. The second band will fit into the throat, centering the bullet. The second and third rings upon ignition will swage down and engage the rifling. This effect is hard to achieve with consistency by just dropping a bullet into the chamber and pouring in some powder.
