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Hoyt

45 Cal.
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I just tried it again..it won't stay on the jig page it goes back to main page..
 
I found the jig link by going thru the Gunsmith section. What you are trying to drill holes in? That may influence what types of jigs to buy.
 
The link worked for me. If it didn't work for you, try this:
DRILL JIG

Glad you asked this question about the MSM Drill Jig.
After looking at Birddog6's jig, and realizing that building it would take a bit of precicion machining (which I don't have the equipment to do) I got interested in the MSM Jig.
The thing the ad's for it don't show is the distance between the two legs.
Ican't tell if it is 1 1/2 inches or more. To my way of thinking, I would want it to be at least 2 1/2 inches or more. It also isn't clear how deep the notch is from the drill centerline. Here again, I would think it should be at least 1 1/2 inches.

If anyone has one, post us some information please. Inquiring minds want to know. ::
 
I like birddog's jig better. Either I would make myself bd's jig or just take my time with the drill press. :imo:
 
I agree with Zonie..I'd have to check into what size it is before buying it..I'm bout $40 dollard out anyway with all these tools I may or might not need.
 
Lou: Well, fer one thin, ye could use the old hand drill instead of buying a drill press.
A drill press only drills as good as the Set Up.

Actually, I'm sure you know how it works, but there may be others who are really wondering how to use it.
The following is my take on the process.

What does it really do? It aims the drill bit right at the center of the opposite screw cone point.
To use it, the hole location needs to be marked on both sides of the stock (or board).
With the pointed screw point pushed into the wood on the mark on one side of the stock, and the drill bit going thru the drill bushing and the drill point located at the mark on the other side of the stock you would proceed to drill the hole. The hole it produces will be aimed exactly at the point on the other side.
Before the drill point breaks all the way thru, you would stop drilling and back the bit out. Then remove the jig and then finish drill thru using the previously drilled hole as a guide.

This could all be done with a hand drill without the need of special clamps or a time consuming drill press set up. :)
 
Just looking at the MSM jig, I am speculating that you line the two points & & tighten the long screw with the allen wrench & make an indentation with the points. Remove thte smooth shaft point & is=nsert the correct drill bushing for the drill hole you want & reealign the one point & put the bit thru the bushing & drill 2/3 way, reverse jig & do same .

Now I Have Not had one of theirs in my hand, but if it is quality made, for the hassle of making one personally I would buy it for $40. before I would make it unless you have all the components sitting there in your shop.

If I was only going to make a rifle every 5-10 years, I would do it without it as I did for the first 5-6 rifles. Just measure 49 times & go slow & use a SMALL bit so you can make adjustments.

Using the jig or not, I make a mark where I want the hole & I take a auto centerpunch & punch the mark so my drill stays where I want it. If you are punching on a rounded piece of wood like the forestock, be sure you are 90 degrees to it or the punch will slip down when you punch it & move the mark.

Custom Muzzleloaders & Custom Skinning Knives
 
I have built a bunch of guns. The only drill Jig I use is a center to center jig. A simple home pointed bolt bolted fast to my drill press table. Really simple to set up. But It does require you to pilot drill the spot where you set the item on the point. For the rest of the cross pins used in gunmaking just clamp a board to your drill press table, shim the stock blank if necessary. If you are using a preshaped stock, I will carefully lay out the location then start the hole with a drill bit held in a pin vise held in my fingers. Drill the hole about 3/32 deep or a trifle more then go to the drill press set up. This will allow you a true start on a flat or curved surface. Hope this is a reasonably clear explanation of my way of doing things. BJH
 
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