Lock identification and frizzen replacement

[JQuigley]

Hello, I got a flintlock off someone on here a while back and I’m wanting to build a rifle for it but I can’t identify the lock. The seller said it was probably an L&R but wasn’t sure. It isn’t marked anywhere so I can’t tell. It looks like an L&R classic but I’m not certain. I need a new frizzen because there’s a gouge out of the face of this one. The frizzen measures a hair over 7/8 wide and about 1.5 tall. Any help would be appreciated. The lock itself is about 5.25 long maybe a bit longer hard to tell and I can’t find my calipers

 

[ronaldrothb49]

That does not look like an L&R. The bolsters on L&R locks are cast in one piece with the lock plate. That looks like a Siler.

 

[flconch53]

You probably just need to slowly grind the frizzen smooth. It looks like the flint was striking low on that frizzen. A quick fix is turn the flint over

 

[bpd303]

I also think it is a Siler lock. Check this out from Jim Chambers.
https://flintlocks.com/new/locks.html

 

[JQuigley]

Looking at it now, I’m inclined to agree with you guys. Thank you!

 

[bpd303]

I wouldn't "grind" the frizzen but some 600 wet or dry paper will smooth it up without removing too much of the hardened face.

 

[JQuigley]

I wouldn't "grind" the frizzen but some 600 wet or dry paper will smooth it up without removing too much of the hardened face.

I was debating that but there’s a big gouge in it I’d be sanding a whole lot off it.

 

[flconch53]

I wouldn't "grind" the frizzen but some 600 wet or dry paper will smooth it up without removing too much of the hardened face.

I used the word grinding because that is infact what it would be. I would be using 1200 grit belt on a round wheel. I realized that people's vision of grinding is something much more aggressive than I was referring to. I have done this before

 

[rich pierce]

A Siler frizzen is hardened through and through. If you grind it without overheating it you’ll have a clean fresh start and a hard frizzen. There’s a small chance it was gouged because it was not quite as hard as it should be. Small chance. But if that’s the case it will gouge again.

 

[JQuigley]

A Siler frizzen is hardened through and through. If you grind it without overheating it you’ll have a clean fresh start and a hard frizzen. There’s a small chance it was gouged because it was not quite as hard as it should be. Small chance. But if that’s the case it will gouge again.

I was just about to ask if they were fully hardened. Thank you

 

[ronaldrothb49]

A Siler frizzen is hardened through and through. If you grind it without overheating it you’ll have a clean fresh start and a hard frizzen. There’s a small chance it was gouged because it was not quite as hard as it should be. Small chance. But if that’s the case it will gouge again.

That would depend on WHO put the lock kit together. If you have one that was assembled by Bud Siler or Jim Chambers then you have a good lock. The problem is they sold unfinished lock kits to anyone so there are a lot f these floating around that were not properly assembled. I got burned on one I bought at Friendship. It looked nice at a low price which should have set off an alarm. When I got ready to put it in a rifle I discovered it had not been hardened.

 

[rich pierce]

Easy test. Take a good lock and test the frizzen face with a fine file. Then test the one that’s questionable.

 

[Gorloff]

Just sole it if nothing else works for you,