Geting pan flash but not reliable ignition

[kyron4]

Do like Buckskinquin said. Also when you load slap the side of the stock on the side opposite from the lock to help powder drop into the smaller diameter patent breach area. Also using 3f as opposed to 2f powder may help.

This worked for me with my Traditions flinter.

 

[fillwa]

At times I will use my vent pick to feed a few grains of 4f into and through the flash hole. My main charge is 3f and I prime with 4f.

 

[Anvilboy]

There was a study done years ago by one of the experimenters on the ALR site about the effect of piling up flash powder in the pan on the speed of the explosion. Might any of you have a link to that study?

 

[mmb617]

I'm not familiar with that rifle but from the comments I assume it has a patent breech. I have a Traditions Kentucky rifle with patent breech that was having way too many pan flashes. I found a cure that some on here will not agree with and that is using 4f as both the prime and the charge. When I load that way I very seldom have a flash in the pan. I am well below max charges so I don't consider it the least bit dangerous or harmful to my gun.

It's one of those things that generate a lot of controversy but it's worked for me.

 

[4119Bill]

I had the same problem with mine. Investarms .50 cal Hawken. I bought the RMC liner. I checked the new liner with a 1/16 drill bit. I was told to check it from the shop I bought it from. The ignition is much better.
I run FFF in the tube and the pan.

 

[Grenadier1758]

There was a study done years ago by one of the experimenters on the ALR site about the effect of piling up flash powder in the pan on the speed of the explosion. Might any of you have a link to that study?

That was @Larry Pletcher who did quite a few studies on speed of ignition.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...-powder-in-chamber.129349/page-3#post-1791534
For more threads, go to the search page, enter "Lock" in the search term and "Larry Pletcher" in the member

 

[Timber Wolf]

Do like Buckskinquin said. Also when you load slap the side of the stock on the side opposite from the lock to help powder drop into the smaller diameter patent breach area. Also using 3f as opposed to 2f powder may help.

I went to 3f in my Pedersoli Trade Gun after some pan-flash aggravation. I also bump the butt on the ground after dropping the powder to maybe get it settled down around the touch hole. Ignition is now around a 100%. I am going to do some work on the inside of the touch hole liner someday. I would like to get back to using 2f, just cause.

 

[2 shots]

Get a cheap set of numbered drill bits at Harbor Freight. There are 11 sizes from 1/16 to 3/32. Work your way up.

might want to consider a quality set of bits [ really only need 2 or 3 sizes], broken bits are no fun to remove. any small diameter bit can snap with too much pressure but start with a good quality one and go light on the pressure . just my free 2 cents. some things are not worth skimping on.

 

[Anvilboy]

Thank you, Grenadier1758!

 

[tjiann]

Was having the same issue yesterday with my T/C Hawken after several shots. I think it was just the powder piled up in the breech. Running a patch or 2 down there didn't solve it. Stopped by gun shop on way home and picked up one of the curved breech scrapers to get at the crud next time.

 

[Fly103]

I cant quite tell from the pic but it also looks like your using a "cut" flint in the lock vs a knapped flint. If that is the case get yourself some good knapped flints before you get into drilling the flash hole larger. Failing that drill the flash ole to 1/16" and wipe the frizzen, pan, and flint with a clean dry patch between shots along with picking the vent.

Chris

 

[Grenadier1758]

One of my earliest posts was to make the obvious comment that if there is flash in the pan, but the main charge is not firing, there is something noncombustible between the touch hole and the main charge. That path needs to be clear. There is no pressure driving the heat from the pan to main charge. So many of our modern manufactured flint lock firearms have a chambered breech. These breeches are easy to fill with fouling. That fouling needs to be removed and a clear path to main charge needs to be established for the next shot. A vent pick will clean the path from the touch hole to base of the powder chamber. A rod with a chamber sized brush with a damp patch will clean most of the fouling from the chamber.

Clear the touch hole and clean the chambered breech and the pan flashes will ignite the main charge.

 

[adkmountainken]

i tap barrel 3 times EVERY time after i load powder. i pick the vent before every shot to insure clear ignition and make sure i can feel main powder charge.

 

[adkmountainken]

i will also switch to 3f as main powder load to see if that helps,

 

[TDM]

I’m just about to the point where I use 3F for everything. All calibers.

Edit: just to clarify I still use 4F for priming. I like it, I’ve got plenty of it, so I use it. But if I was out I wouldn’t hesitate to use 3F instead.

 

[Buckskinquin]

I Read your first post again. Why leave the vent pick in as you charge the pan. Once the PRB is seated, you’ve compressed the powder around it and a channel to the charge is established. Try removing, then charging the pan, some flash powder should trickle in and a tap on the barrel should complete the job.

 

[fillwa]

I load with 3f in my 54cal flintlock and prime with 4f. During woods walks when I have a pan flash I will feed some 4f through the touch hole with my pick. Doesn’t take much.

 

[ZDC]

Hi everyone,
I have been tinkering around with an Investarms flintlock kit since last year and, to my surprise, managed to complete it.
View attachment 190081

It started shooting pretty fine with .495 round balls, .15 lubed patch and about 60gr FFg at the first range day but developed a tendency to hang fire and pan flash after the first few shots.
So, took it apart, cleaned it, took the flash hole liner out, dried everything blasted it with brake pad cleaner (think alcohol and very evaporative organics) put everything back together and had the same issue as soon as I hit the range again.
Before you ask: Wano 2F for main charge, pan either gets the same, "Zündkraut", Meal D or ground down BP. So far nothing has made a difference other than leaving some powder spots in my face.
Loading procedure: Wipe battery and pan, place vent pick, load main charge, tilt to right, prime pan, remove vent pick, get ready to fire..........

Honestly, I do not know what else I need to tinker with. Flash hole size a problem with Investarms? Any other known issues?
Percussion was so much easier.

Not wat your "supposed" to do but try trickling a little powder down the touchhole. (Not much , just a few pieces)

Most guys say it will cause a fuse effect, but when I do it with my gun I get a very fast and reliable ignition. My gun actually goes off faster and more reliability ( I've only had a hand full of times it didn't go off, and the times it didn't was because I needed to pick the touchhole ) when I trickle some down.

Might not work for you , but it works great for me , and there is no harm in giving it a go or two at the range.

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

Might be a silly question, but why, if chambered breeches cause all these problems, are they still being used?!

My solution to this problem would be to clean it up and make it look pretty, then sell it quick to someone I don't know and look for a T/C Hawken or Renegade. Some guns can't really be fixed very well.

 

[kyron4]

Might be a silly question, but why, if chambered breeches cause all these problems, are they still being used?!

My solution to this problem would be to clean it up and make it look pretty, then sell it quick to someone I don't know and look for a T/C Hawken or Renegade. Some guns can't really be fixed very well.

T/C also uses a chambered breech.