Getting on my feet

[Stumpkiller]

I always prime to below the level of the touch-hole. Banking it to the outside edge makes sense for set-place shooting, but after bopping around with the rifle for an hour hunting or walking who can say where the priming has ended up inside the pan?

If you loose a short-starter, the flat of a knife blade will set the ball nicely flush to where the patch can be cut, and a bit of leather (I always carrt a 1" x 10" strap) tightly wrapped a few inches up the ramrod should give enough grip to seat the ball deeper.

That little scrap strap has also saved sanity when a patch gets stuck at the breech (Good 'ol Thompson tapered "patent" breech :curse. Allows a bit more grip on the tip of the exposed rod.

I used to make short starters out of a a 1-1/2" x 3" section of Witch Hazel (bark left on) and a 1/2" x 5" piece off the same tree for the dowel. It dries up to be very light and strong, and the wood/bark can be whittled up into nice contrasting patterns. The short starter does not have to be bore size. If you break a 1/2" dowel starting even a .75 ball in a smoothie or a .62 rifle, you're forcing something WAY to much. A wood tipped short starter will not gouge the bore or ball.

 

[rschissler]

Okay here's another dumb question, involving a vent pick.

Do you use a vent pick to keep powder out of the touchhole while priming, or to clean the hole after firing, or both? Does it have to be the same diameter as the touchhole, or can it be a little smaller?

 

[musketman]

Okay here's another dumb question, involving a vent pick.

Do you use a vent pick to keep powder out of the touchhole while priming, or to clean the hole after firing, or both? Does it have to be the same diameter as the touchhole, or can it be a little smaller?

Smaller, so it will fit into the hole...

I use mine to clear the hole after reloading and before priming, this ensures a clear path for the flast to go into the main charge...

You can use a feather's quill, tooth pick, or whatever, just be careful not to break it off in the vent, if you do, you can usually push it all the way in and just shoot it out...

 

[Stumpkiller]

Everyone has a favorite method. That's what makes forums.

I pick after the shot (sometimes) and before reloading. If I am shooting serious, I use a small feather and place it in the vent before loading. I remove it before I wipe the pan and prime. My intention is to leave a little cavity into the powder charge for the plasma flash to get into, instead of hitting just a few kernels inside the vent. No idea if it works, but I try.

A vent pick can be smaller, and should be of softer material than the barrel (or vent liner if so equipped). Yor don't want to ream the hole larger, just knock the crud out. I like small feathers for this job. Won't harm the barrel and they're free; plus they make dandy whisks for brushing away powder.

I also make picks out of clothes hanger wire "forged" to shape with a propane torch and a hammer. Copper wire is a good choice, too.

 

[sherpadoug]

Okay here's another dumb question, involving a vent pick.

Start with a paper clip. DO NOT use the hardened spike on a musket tool. If the spike breaks off in the touchhole you are in BIG trouble!
I like the idea of using a feather as combo pick and brush. Too bad I just finished a nice scrimshaw musket brush.

 

[Boonetract]

If I am shooting serious, I use a small feather and place it in the vent before loading. I remove it before I wipe the pan and prime. My intention is to leave a little cavity into the powder charge for the plasma flash to get into, instead of hitting just a few kernels inside the vent.

Yes, yes, and yes! This is one of the best ways to ensure a fast discharge on the range. I think it is the best way to load and it works! It helps prevent what I call fused ignition. :agree: