Getting Started Cleaning

Could one of you please describe how to clean my Hawken using the flush tube method? I have heard it's better to clean this way, so you don't loosen the wedge pins from constant barrel removal. Also, if anyone has a list of supplies I'll need to do it correctly, that would be helpful. Can I make a flush tube from plasitc fish tank air hose? I know this is a rookie question, and I thank you for the help.

 

[GPR guy]

I am only guessing from what I have heard as I have never seen it done but I believe you simply attach the plastic tube to the nipple and stick it in your hot water. Then the suction from the rod and cleaning patches draw the water up in the barrel.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Well, I can run you down as I do it.

Place three pound coffee can half full of water on stove burner, medium heat.

Remove nipple - drop in water.

Screw clean-out nipple onto gun. fasten hose & clunk weight if not already.

Cut a 2" x 3" cotton patch and put a tiny slit 1/4" in from one corner. Push threads of jag through slit and then attach jag to ramrod.

When water comes to a boil, scrape in a bit (the size of two aspirins, maybe) of Ivory Soap or a dash of Muphy's Oil Soap.

Set water on newspapers or several thicknesses of paper shopping bags on floor.

Dip tube in the water, hold gun upright by grasping at muzzle with an old towel between your hand and the barrel. Dip the patch in the water and then push it into the barrel slowly as the air bubbles out the tube into the can (too fast and your wife will never allow this in the house again - but she won't anyway bacause of the smell). At the bottom, reverse and slowly draw hot water up into the barrel. Repeat for about 20 passes.

Set down gun and pour out water, collecting nipple. Put more water in can and heat again.

Clean nipple with toothbrush and toothpick, then poke a small paper clip end through it a few times. Hold over flame with toothpick for a few seconds and set aside.

Take new boiling water, new patch and repeat; sloshing fresh water through barrel 20 strokes or so.

Wipe up with towel and allow gun to set for 10 minutes for water to evaoprate.

Run a new patch with Lehigh Valley Lube or the rust preventer of your choice through the barrel. Replace nipple and wipe down all metal on the gun with Lehigh Valley, CLP Breakfree, etc. on clean patch. Wipe wood dry. Clean up surroundings as necessary.

 

[cayugad]

You can make a flush tube from some fish tank hose and a nipple with some epoxy. It really is not necessary as far as I am concerned. I have a Renegade that I have been pulling the wedge pin for over 20+ years and it still fits like new. I like to pull the barrel because I like to wipe out the stock and under the barrel also. Get a wedge pin/nipple wrench combination tool for you possible bag. It sure is a handy item.

Some things you will need for cleaning are a patch worm because your bound to loose one in there sooner or later, a cleaning jag, a breech scraper, a bore brush for that caliber, patches, solvent, and some quality oil for after your done. Also get yourself an old coffee can that you will only use for the cleaning of the rifles. It leaves less of a mess for others to complain about. A bore light is nice to have to check your work after your done, but not really necessary. You can tell if it is clean by the condition of the patches as they come out.

All my rifles I have pulled the wedge pin and cleaned the barrel seperate from the stock, so I have no idea how well that hose thing works. Good luck with your rifle.

 

[Darkhorse]

Fairchase,
I have a Renegade that is basically the same as your Hawken and it is over 25 years old. The only way it has ever been cleaned is after I removed the barrel. The pins are still as tight as when new. The same for my GPR. These pins go through metal ecscutions (spelling?) and into metal barrel hoops. If done with care there is little to wear out and loosen up.
On the other hand, my Flint Longrifles are cleaned with a flush tube and it works great. The small pins on the longrifle are held on each side of the barrel by only the wood of the stock. So there is a real reason not to remove them anymore than possible as they will loosen up.
I wouldn't worry about it if I were you.

 

Thanks guys... some goood thoughts there. Maybe I won't worry about the hose and I'll just do the barrel removal method.
One question, what is a breech scraper and how do I use that? Getting the breech end of the barrel clean when I can't open it like an inline, worries me a little. Thanks again.

 

[Stumpkiller]

A fouling scraper

looks like a cross between a jag and a screwdriver. It fits the contours of the end of the barrel closely (hopefully) and will scrape the built up crud off the barrel and breech-plug walls. They don't seem to be necessary, as I've been muzzleloading since 1979 and have never owned one. I use a patch on the end of a patch worm occasionally - the arms of the worm dig in to any build-up and show if more cleaning is necessary.

 

[riarcher]

Fishtank or windshield washer hose right on to your nipple, 1 oz. fishing sinker (or something on the other end) drop into hotter than hadies water and pump patched rod. When the patch starts looking clean go to a clean patch and pump 5-8 more times. With clean patches, work til dry (not long). With tooth brush clean and dry surrounding areas and wax/oil for storage. DONE Simple as that.

 

[cayugad]

One place I use the fowling scraper or breech scraper is when shooting. I will often if shooting, instead of swabbing, put the scraper down where twist it around and turn the barrel upside down. It is amazing what comes out of the breech/barrel of the gun. When cleaning I still scraper in there, and then put a .22 caliber bore brush on a cleaning rod and that will reach back into the cone of the breech. But Stumpkiller is right, that is something you get down the road. It is not a necessity.