Getting started

[mfastr]

While on a trek at Philmont Scout Ranch in Nm. I was introduced into the world of muzzleloaders.Now as a certified rifle instructor I realized that I'm hooked on the MLs.My friends have modern comercial styles but I find myself wanting to go oldschool. I want to build my own but some of the reviews i've read left me dissapointed. I run a autobody shop so nI'm confident in my abilities and got most of the tools already.I want to build an American historical piece that can shoot 50cal so we only have to stock one type of ammo.I know this will create a huge debate but Here it goes:
-What style? ie.Kentucky,plains,traders etc.
-Flint for originality or caps for ease?
-Safety? Scouts will be firing this
-Manufacturer?
-Patch box?
-Leangth of barrel?
:note only using for target shooting im not into hunting yet.

 

[54ball]

The first thing I reccomend is a good book or several good books and DVDs. The best available right now is Recreating The American Longrifle by Shumway Publishing. It's available directly from Shumway or from suppliers like Track of the Wolf. Plus there is DVDs and other books available from several suppliers like Jim Chambers at flintlocks.com.

 

[54ball]

The skill it takes to master a flintlock is the same for any firearm, only more so. Meaning the skills for good and safe flintlock shooting are multiplied. They require attention to detail. They require extra care with the open ignition. Remenber a flintlock can fire loaded but not primed if the trigger is pulled or sparks reach an open pan. Also they require concentration on the target and follow through to shoot accurately. Personally I think these things are not detremental. If a person learns to handle and shoot a flintlock well and safely, they can shoot anything well and safely.

Remember just because flint is offered on a gun, it does not mean it was " the original ignition". For instance, the Lyman GPR is offered in flint but this generic copy of a light 1840s-1870s Hawken would have been percussion. Flint could have been special ordered but not likely. Also there have been many original 19th century long rifles " reconverted" back to flint that never were flint to begin with.
If interested in a more historical piece you have to do research.

 

[54ball]

Here's some things I posted earlier about rifle building and scouting.

These are the Merit badges this project could earn.
American Heritage
Art
Drafting for layout
Model Design and Building for try stock and stock pattern
Metal Work
Wood Carving
Wood Work
and hopefully
Rifle Shooting

Keep in mind this is building from a blank but you get the idea.

Some arms that are historical to Northern Illinois.

French Fusils, trade guns and pre-1760s muskets

English trade guns and muskets

Early Pennsylvania and Kentucky rifles and smoothbores, " think George Rogers Clark".

Golden age rifles and full stock trade rifles
like Henry and Leman

In percussion some of the longrifles above as conversions

Mid-Western Percussion smaller caliber long rifles and halfstocks like Track's Vincent rifle

Stretching it a bit a plains halfstock like the GPR or a southern Tennessee type

See you have a multitude of choices.

For ease I recommend that you get the Lyman GPR kit in .50 percussion. It is a true kit and not a parts set.

parts sets...

For authenticity in flint I recomend any of the above longrifles with a 36" to 42" barrels. The Leman being my first choice. And they were offered with no patch or cap box.

For Mid Western style, I like a Vincent in .45 percussion.

You mention sharing ammo. I assume others that shoot the modern type guns use sabots. These do not shoot well at all in tradition guns with slow twists. The GPR is offered in the Hunter model and its made to shoot sabots. I'm not sure it is offered in kit form with that barrel. I would get a slow twist and shoot round balls either from a mold or pe-made.

Also a flintlock will not shoot well at all with modern propellants like Pyrodex or Triple 7. You must use true blackpowder in a flint to get good results. Percussion will be OK.

Lastly if you decide on an economy kit like a Traditions Kentucky, get it in percussion as their flintlocks are spotty. I've have good results with my Traditions flinter but that appears to be the exception.

 

[mdbeck1]

While on a trek at Philmont Scout Ranch in Nm. I was introduced into the world of muzzleloaders.Now as a certified rifle instructor I realized that I'm hooked on the MLs.My friends have modern comercial styles but I find myself wanting to go oldschool. I want to build my own but some of the reviews i've read left me dissapointed. I run a autobody shop so nI'm confident in my abilities and got most of the tools already.I want to build an American historical piece that can shoot 50cal so we only have to stock one type of ammo.I know this will create a huge debate but Here it goes:
-What style? ie.Kentucky,plains,traders etc.
-Flint for originality or caps for ease?
-Safety? Scouts will be firing this
-Manufacturer?
-Patch box?
-Leangth of barrel?
:note only using for target shooting im not into hunting yet.

I am also a BSA Black Powder rifle instructor. For Boy Scouts (as apposed to venture crew) you have to use Cap & Ball. In fact the rifle merit badge talks about flintlock, matchlock, and wheel locks but the boys may only fire Cap & Ball.