I just bought an 1851 Confederate Army .44 cal pistol. I have fired a few conicals in it but I am going to switch to round ball ammo when I empty the current box. My question is how do you get the caps on tight enough initially to prevent a misfire. So far I am only loading one chamber at a time and shooting it. The first time I fire the gun, the hammer slaps down and nothing. I half cock the hammer, rotate the cylinder and squeeze again and I finally get a shot. What do I need to do differently? Thanks for any advice.
Getting the caps on tight
- Thread starter RacerX
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Here is what I would do! Pick the size of cap and brand you want to use. Take each nipple out and chuck them up in a drill and spin them with a fine flat file held against it until you get the fit your looking for. That is what I do anyway! Usually your just deburring. Geo. T.
rodwha
58 Cal.
That is exactly what happens often when I use CCI #11 magnum caps. They fit tightly, but obviously are hard to fully seat.
Rem #11 caps need to be pinched as some will slide off of the nipple.
Rem #10 caps have worked wonderfully so far, though I've only used maybe half of a tin.
I want to find CCI #10s to see how they work.
Win caps are rebranded CCIs.
I'm not sure if CCI #11s and #11 magnums are the same thing.
Rem #11 caps need to be pinched as some will slide off of the nipple.
Rem #10 caps have worked wonderfully so far, though I've only used maybe half of a tin.
I want to find CCI #10s to see how they work.
Win caps are rebranded CCIs.
I'm not sure if CCI #11s and #11 magnums are the same thing.
rodwha
58 Cal.
A '51 in .44 cal is a Pietta.
Racerx- caps and nipples come in a lot of combinations. If the nipple is tapered and the cap a little too small, the cap doesn't rest against the nipple, there's a tiny gap. The first time the hammer falls the force (if it doesn't fire) is only pushing the cap all the way down. The second time you cock and fire the cap is in the proper position so that's why it is firing on the second attempt.
You can go the other direction as well, caps that are too large. When I was a kid we would pinch the caps to turn them from being round to oblong and then they would stay on a nipple but that's a poor practice and the loose fit could invite a chain firing.
You can buy a set of 6 replacement nipples, an upgrade type that is simply better than what a lot of manufacturer's supply. If you know the exact nipple you are using you can then get caps that fit correctly on that nipple. They should seat with a moderate effort and once in place they shouldn't fall off. On a lot of new guns you sort of have to tweak a thing or two to get everything just right.
You can go the other direction as well, caps that are too large. When I was a kid we would pinch the caps to turn them from being round to oblong and then they would stay on a nipple but that's a poor practice and the loose fit could invite a chain firing.
You can buy a set of 6 replacement nipples, an upgrade type that is simply better than what a lot of manufacturer's supply. If you know the exact nipple you are using you can then get caps that fit correctly on that nipple. They should seat with a moderate effort and once in place they shouldn't fall off. On a lot of new guns you sort of have to tweak a thing or two to get everything just right.
Billnpatti
Cannon
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Most revolvers have #10 nipples but occasionally you will get an Italian made revolver that has odd size nipples (metric, I suppose). These nipples are somewhere between a #10 and a #11 in size. # 11 caps will fit loosely and #10 caps will not seat all the way. There are two solutions. The easiest is to simply replace them with actual #10 nipples. But, there is a cheaper way. Just chuck each nipple in your drill being careful not to damage the threads. Use a fine mill file to carefully cut the nipple down slightly by turning on your drill and as the nipple is spinning, gently touch the file to the nipple and carefully take off just a bit of the nipple until a #10 cap fits properly. Use a bit of fine emery cloth to polish the nipple to remove any marks left by the file and you are good to go. Once you have the correct size nipples, you can gently squeeze each cap before placing it on the nipple to make sure that it stays in place. Press if fully down on the nipple and make sure it is fully seated. Your problems should be solved.
I wasnt sure if traditions or anyone else did the 51 in.44 or not.I have one but anyway Ive tried cci 10s and they didnt work but I cant remember if they were loose or tight.once I started using Remington caps I stuck with them.My Dragoons prefer 11s and the 51\.44 I believe likes the 10s.Ihave it written down in a book but its out in the shop.all my Remmies like the 10s... .36 or .44.
bobthemotorcycle
40 Cal.
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Just get a wooden dowl or a pencel and push them on.
When you put your caps on with your fingers it is not up againest the nipple enough so get a wood dowl or pencel and push them up againest the nipple everytime. Thats how I do it and its rare I have a misfire.
Be safe with your pistol but dont be afraid of it. Get mean with it and show it your boss.
Persusion caps go off on impact not presure. You can push on it all day long with a wooden dowl and it will never fire. If you hit it really fast it will pop. Now go load up 6 and make some smoke.
When you put your caps on with your fingers it is not up againest the nipple enough so get a wood dowl or pencel and push them up againest the nipple everytime. Thats how I do it and its rare I have a misfire.
Be safe with your pistol but dont be afraid of it. Get mean with it and show it your boss.
Persusion caps go off on impact not presure. You can push on it all day long with a wooden dowl and it will never fire. If you hit it really fast it will pop. Now go load up 6 and make some smoke.
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I've gotten into the habit of seating all caps placed on nipples with a Popsicle stick after using the capper. Don't use metal for this although I doubt pressure enough could be exerted by hand to cause a cap to detonate as impact is what is needed.
Another problem that comes up on occasion with a change of nipples is hammer face batter. The face at nipple crown can batter back enough so that the hammer face hood makes partial contact with the nipple body at the base thus decreasing impact pressure on the cap at the nipple crown. I had this problem with my 60 Pietta so drilled out a hole in the hammer face and soldered in a tool steel insert. No more hammer face batter. Any battering should be on the nipple not the hammer face and cap cover should prevent this as well. Most batter is from dry firing on bare nipples although some of these reproduction hammers are not cased deep enough on the face to prevent this. Mike D.
Another problem that comes up on occasion with a change of nipples is hammer face batter. The face at nipple crown can batter back enough so that the hammer face hood makes partial contact with the nipple body at the base thus decreasing impact pressure on the cap at the nipple crown. I had this problem with my 60 Pietta so drilled out a hole in the hammer face and soldered in a tool steel insert. No more hammer face batter. Any battering should be on the nipple not the hammer face and cap cover should prevent this as well. Most batter is from dry firing on bare nipples although some of these reproduction hammers are not cased deep enough on the face to prevent this. Mike D.
The Remington #10 caps have fit every #10 and #11 nipples I have.
if that fails:
I'd get 2 packs of traditions nipples (they come in packs of 3, don't ask me why...) made for Pietta revolvers in number 11 then get some #11 cci caps.
if that fails:
I'd get 2 packs of traditions nipples (they come in packs of 3, don't ask me why...) made for Pietta revolvers in number 11 then get some #11 cci caps.
After I've slipped the caps on all the cylinders, I just let the hammer down gently on each cap and then push the hammer firmly with my thumb. Of course, keep the barrel pointed in a safe direction while doing it. I've quit having problems since I've started doing it that way.
that is a very unsafe way to do it
get a dowel like the guys sugested
get a dowel like the guys sugested
I can't see where my way would be any less safe than using a dowel. I have far better control of the pistol since I have both hands wrapped around the pistol instead of one. The pressure I apply is inline instead of offset so I don't have the possibility of pushing the gun sideways.
When I am applying pressure I have the barrel pointed down at the ground within a couple feet of the ground.
This is the way I watched my father doing it when I was a kid. He grew up shooting a cap and ball pistol. He was born in 1888. I never saw him have an unintentional fire and I've never had one myself either in 60 years. Caps go off from impact, not pressure.
Of course, I grew up and learned most of the things I know how to do before everyone was in such a panic about safety. When I was a 6-10 years old my dad would have me light the fuses on dynamite charges for him. He was a care taker at a cemetery in Oklahoma. When you dig a grave there, it's about a foot of dirt covering solid rock. Each grave had to be blasted out. ( My mother would have killed him if she had ever found out. lol!). I learned to set shaped charges at 6 years old.
I don't think anything about doing things like making my own gunpowder,( Oh my god I'm gonna blow myself up!), casting lead balls, ( Oh dear! I'm gonna poison myself.), drive without wearing my seat belt, and ride a motorcycle without a helmet. i drink moonshine when I can get it, an have been smoking for 50 years and can still out breath hold free dive longer than just about anyone I've ever run into. I put most 20 year old non-smokers to shame.
When I am applying pressure I have the barrel pointed down at the ground within a couple feet of the ground.
This is the way I watched my father doing it when I was a kid. He grew up shooting a cap and ball pistol. He was born in 1888. I never saw him have an unintentional fire and I've never had one myself either in 60 years. Caps go off from impact, not pressure.
Of course, I grew up and learned most of the things I know how to do before everyone was in such a panic about safety. When I was a 6-10 years old my dad would have me light the fuses on dynamite charges for him. He was a care taker at a cemetery in Oklahoma. When you dig a grave there, it's about a foot of dirt covering solid rock. Each grave had to be blasted out. ( My mother would have killed him if she had ever found out. lol!). I learned to set shaped charges at 6 years old.
I don't think anything about doing things like making my own gunpowder,( Oh my god I'm gonna blow myself up!), casting lead balls, ( Oh dear! I'm gonna poison myself.), drive without wearing my seat belt, and ride a motorcycle without a helmet. i drink moonshine when I can get it, an have been smoking for 50 years and can still out breath hold free dive longer than just about anyone I've ever run into. I put most 20 year old non-smokers to shame.
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I hadn't thought to do it that way with the hammer but thinking on it and understanding that impact is what fires the caps and not pressure alone I will give it a try. One does have good control of the loaded weapon with this method and pistols with the short barrels as opposed to rifle length, in particular, need to always be pointed in a safe direction.
It has the added benefit of seating the cap on the nipple crown in exact strike profile of the hammer face. Good idea me thinks. MD
It has the added benefit of seating the cap on the nipple crown in exact strike profile of the hammer face. Good idea me thinks. MD
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+1
I use the same method and find it safe and practicable.
I use the same method and find it safe and practicable.
I have both Uberti and Pietta revolvers all with stock factory nipples and have never had any issues with any caps at all, if using no11 make sure they are for revolvers and are not the longer rifle ones (RWS) .All caps go on with out issues either by hand or with an in line cash capper, none fall off either . :idunno:
